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d16a1 build help.


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You can get 200bhp all motor. Headwork, cams, a customer header, carbs, and bottom end build. 170bhp is more realistic and budget friendly. The trans is pretty good and you can use a B16/B18C5 differential in it. Checking your PM in a minute.

 

Z6 or Y8. Doesn't really matter.

 

It'll be fine. I'm running the Performer-X with a stock ECU.

 

zombied but im sure we can pin this or can creat something with reallyy goooood information. but since there isnt much for this motor any more i went with the zc head/many. can i re build the bot and slam the head on to breake in the new rings in the bottom end? and later when there is more $ ill go polish the head and the manny... goood?

2.if i add the a t2/t3 turbo on this block can i be ok with the rings after a 500mile BREAK IN? i called a few times to Total SEal or Top seal or top rings i have the box some or on my build thread.

 

if you call this thread stealing there is alot of relivance to this topic

and if so then please move this to a new thread plz admin :rolleyes::ph34r:

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The last one of these I built made 155whp and 133wtq all motor. Custom CP Pistons, Rocket Motorsports headwork, Rocket Motorsports JDM DOHC ZC regrind cams, Rocket Motorsports springs and ti retainers, head milled 1mm (13.5:1 CR), AEM cam gears, Scat rods, custom SMSP header, SMSP race exhaust, Performer-X IM, P28 tuned with eCtune by Redline Performance. Sunoco 110 unleaded.

 

Do the engine all at once, otherwise you're wasting money on two or more tunes. Build it and tow it to the dyno, it will be broken in on the dyno while being tuned.

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