The Boosted LSVTEC Thread

[sonnyjc3]

yes sir.

 

So I guess I'll go with the Tial .70 Bar/10.25 psi WGA, then with the boost controller turn it up to 14 psi at the track. Is that okay?

i hope your not asking me cuz i truly have no frackin clue. lmao.

[Hatch92]

all i have to say is you gotta put up pics, and i need to get back to the east coast and finish my car....

 

sounds like a good setup 90

[cranny]

Cranny-

 

The electronic boost controller is pricey, but i'm going all out here lol. I would like to have a sweet action box in my car that i could just adjust in seconds and run more boost.

 

E-bay manifolds are pretty much crap, and I looked up inlinePro and I only saw SSAutoChrome...sooo I'll just dish out the cash.

 

Where could I find a flange kit? I would like to make my own downpipe, then in the future have Mighty muffler in Aston install an electric cut-out for my downpipe. Hell Yeah.

 

The reason that intercooler dealer is so appealing is because putting an intercooler on a DA is a headache. So if I can take measurements, go on that site, then find the perfect size intercooler for my application then i'm set.

 

For injecters, what brand do you recommend? I want to go with 550's if it will help my engine. 750's might be a little too pricey for me lol. And I might go with Walbro, but Holley is cheaper soooo we'll see.

 

To convert my ECU to OBD-1 is easy? Is it just cutting and splicing? Aren't the wires different colors? And I do want to just stay OBD-0 because it's soooo dumb. Doens't even know i went AT-MT lol. OBD-1 would throw a code and activate a rev limiter at like 3K on every gear...

 

And yes, that's a lot of money being dumped into my car, but I'll only get to do this once. After college I'll have no time...and when I do....well, sex. lol.

 

do er up , boost controllers are the bomb but just pricey. cant blame ya for wanting one though , lol. id still look into other mannys. still seems a bit pricey for a log manny. i like tube mannys personally. im pretty sure lots of places you could find a flange kit. i know ebay sells them for sure. definitely go with RC injectors like you guys were saying , there the bomb. if you cant afford 750's , 550's are fine dude. 550's are only good for like 270 horse. if holly is cheaper fuel pump , than get that one instead of walpro , i mean its holly , how can ya go wrong , lol. i would definitely go and get yourself a P72 or P28. i can help you , you wire the OBD1 ecu right into your car , fuk all to it man. difference between OBD0 and OBD1 is few wires , and few different pinouts. id recommend like i always do , lol , to get yourself a wiring harness out of an obd1 VTEC integra. change wiring harnesses in your car , than your car will permanently and cleanly be OBD1(w/VTEC). even if you can only get OBD1 non VTEC wiring harness , VTEC is only 3 wires. you can add them while installing new harness. as far as your previous prolems with obd1 , well , lets not go there , we already discussed it , lol.

[90IntegraC1]

so what i'd have to do is cut all the wires going into the ecu, get the OBD-1 Vtec harness and splice them all back together?

 

ahhhhh.

[Attaus]

Wait, what computer do you have in there right now? Aren't you OBD1 non-VTEC?

 

All you need is an OBD1 VTEC ECU.

 

Otherwise, you've got these;

 

http://www.j-k-tuning.com/conversion-harne...f044f6e3c8ce6ec

[cranny]

NOOOO 90 , let me repeat , NOOOOO , hahaha. you only have to cut a few , CEL , brake switch , clutch switch which your gonna need if you dont have already(if not you can tie them together to eliminate neutral safety. power and gound for the ECU will have to be cut. all the wires that feed your ecu dont come from your car ya know , they simply go from ECU to engine sensors. think of it like an amp. you take the amp out , power ground and remote stays right , same as this. once you cut the few wires that stay like the ones i listed , the whole engine harness will come out of the car through the firewall. than feed new one in same place , run it accordingly. find out which wires on the OBD1 ecu stay(which i have maps for as you know) , CEL , brake switch so on. than cut those wires from the harness(which they will be to get the harnes out of the car your getting it from. so for power and ground and the ones staying , youl have 3 inches of wire for each of these comming from the ecu plugs , tie them into the wires you left from old ecu , and away you go. they will plug into your engine the same. any differences well be able to see on the maps. are you seeing what im saying? its really not that bad , the worst of it is getting the old one out and new one in through the firewall , not the actual wiring aspect. keep your injector resister box and injector plugs , you might need them.

[EH6TunerDaniel]

So I guess I'll go with the Tial .70 Bar/10.25 psi WGA, then with the boost controller turn it up to 14 psi at the track. Is that okay?

Sounds good to me. Make sure you do plenty of research in your spare time about turbos. I spent about 3 months just reading up on turbo setups alone.

[90IntegraC1]

Dan-I'm non-stop researching all day during classes lol.

 

Attaus-Right now I'm OBD-0 non-vtec, that's why I'm confused how i could just cut a couple wires, add a couple wires and have it be OBD-1. Wow, now i'm lost lol.

 

I would need a P28 or P72, which my existing wiring harness would not plug into, so I'd need a conversion harness, which then involves cutting all wires and splicing correct?

 

Cranny, just explain step-by-step what you would do to convert a car from OBD-0 to OBD-1 please....i'll paypal you a dollar if you do!

[mycarsux]

Aren't you a part of these forums, murph??

 

obd0-1 conversion

[cranny]

that writeup doesnt suck mycar , bit its not the best either. hes talking about using a jumper , i talking about converting the car to OBD1 totally.

 

UPDATED. 1

 

1)take OBD0 ECU out of your car

 

2)unhook your engine bay harness from all sensors , valves , switches , injectors , your dizzy , so on. so you have your engine harness in your hand connected to nothing. than pull it through the firewall into the passenger compart.

 

3)find which wires stay , not all the wires leaving the ecu go to the engine. certain wires stay , your brake switch , 2 black ground wires(A16 , A18 , not sure if these will come out with harness or stay , either way there just grounds) , clutch switch(which if you dont have you should get) , there should be 4 wires that go from ECU to main power relay(A12-A15) they have to stay. check engine light . should be a power wire on the B plug (B13 , 10A fuse) as well that stays. make sure you label all these very well (what they are , and where they came from , A12 for example , what plug , what wire) so you know which one is which for reinstall. that should be it for what stays. remove old harness from car.

 

4)once old harness is removed completely , get the new one ready.

 

5)now for 4 wires for relay , A12 gets twisted to A07 on OBD1. A13 gets twisted to A25 on OBD1. A14 gets twisted to A08on OBD1. A15 gets twisted to B01 on OBD1.

 

6)brake switch wire , ties into the OBD1 brake switch wire which is D02(green/white).

 

7)clutch switch wire goes into OBD1 clutch switch wire , B07 on the OBD1 harness.

 

8)check engine light wire goes to A13 (green/orange) on the OBD1 harness.

 

9)the B13 power wire you cut off the OBD0 isnt used again , get rid of it.

 

10)the 2 grounds A16 and A18 , A16 will be twisted to A26 on the OBD1 harness ; A18 will be twisted to B02 on the OBD1 harness.

 

this is from the last post as well , but want it to go here as well , cause if the mods do it for once , it should be stickied. should be a whole step by step section. go back through the threads i prolly got a dozen done already , lol.

 

the A06 , and B16 , so on , thats the plug and pinout #. so theres 3 plugs right , well in OBD1 theres no C plug. in OBD0 theres no D plug , lol. so the letter and number mean this. you pull the plug off the ECU , looking at the end that plugs into the ecu , with it upright of course , the letter is what plug , and the nuber is what location in that plug. they are numbered top to bottom , left to right. ill try and post pics of the plugs for you , make it even easier.

 

 

just clean your work up from there 90 , make sure its nice and clean. elec tape the wires back up to make harness out of them , or blend them to existing ones. that should be it 90. thats all you have to do man. if someone has corrections , or if i missed anything which i dont think i did , feel free guys.

[90IntegraC1]

that's awesome...and when you say twist does that mean i can sodder?

[mycarsux]

o ok, I just did a google for obd0 to obd1 conversion and that's what came up.

 

So he doesn't have to replace his obd0 dizzy with a obd1 dizzy??

[90IntegraC1]

Cranny's description>G2IC's description....

 

now, when I go to do this in the near future, will I see the A06/B07 codes on the wires? or will I have to get a map to match what you said with the colors??

[compuvision02]

Just make sure 14 psi is the perfect pressure for the setup you got. In other words, get a tune and find out what the perfect wga setting is.

 

And the turbo...you don't want to get a big turbo and run low boost or vice versa. (sorry, didn't read the thread at all really since last time)

 

Just an example, Loftus was running a T3/T4 on his B16 CRX, stock internals, on 5PSI; it was faster stock all motor. 14 sounds like a good number for a T3/T4 though.

[mycarsux]

Just an example, Loftus was running a T3/T4 on his B16 CRX, stock internals, on 5PSI; it was faster stock all motor.

Hahahahaha

[90IntegraC1]

lmao loftus....dumbass....

 

mine's gonna be mildly built at the beginning, then once i get some money to build the block and head a little bit i'll up the boost a lot...i wanna pwn noobs.

[cranny]

Cranny's description>G2IC's description....

 

now, when I go to do this in the near future, will I see the A06/B07 codes on the wires? or will I have to get a map to match what you said with the colors??

 

whos G2IC? lol , must be person from another site is it? the wires will just be colored. ill update and put the colors for you dude no problem. the A06 , and B16 , so on , thats the plug and pinout #. so theres 3 plugs right , well in OBD1 theres no C plug. in OBD0 theres no D plug , lol. so the letter and number mean this. you pull the plug off the ECU , looking at the end that plugs into the ecu , with it upright of course , the letter is what plug , and the nuber is what location in that plug. they are numbered top to bottom , left to right. ill try and post pics of the plugs for you , make it even easier.

[90IntegraC1]

awesome man, thanks so much for your help.

 

G2IC=Generation 2 Integra Club. it's another site im on often and that's where mycarsux got the OBD-0 to OBD-1 info...it was a little sketchy though...

[cranny]

o ok, I just did a google for obd0 to obd1 conversion and that's what came up.So he doesn't have to replace his obd0 dizzy with a obd1 dizzy??

 

yes he will need an OBD1 dizzy.

[mycarsux]

Yeah, was just making sure cranny. Because you never mentioned he needed an OBD1 dizzy.

[cranny]

step at a time dude jesus , let the boys brain recover first , hahaha.

[90IntegraC1]

i'm still reading your posts over and over lol...*takin' notes*....

[cranny]

copy and paste it into a text file and print it off dude.

[mycarsux]

Dan likes taking notes. It helps him understand it better. I remember in the middle of last year he had like 2 pages of notes on lsvtec. And it was the week of midterms. Lol