90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 So i remember seeing your thread about installing the body kit, painting prep work, and the finished product. I'm very curious as to how to do the prep work process... My car, being almost 17 years old, has a few rust spots by the wheel wells and a few little bubbles...but i can't really buff it anymore, the paint is too old for that, i'll be down to the primer. I keep thinking about sanding it down and starting from scratch. I have a new fender to replace the dented one, ordering JDM thin side moldings i could use bondo to fill in some small dents, and my friend goes to Penn Tech where he paints cars all day, but i'd like to prep it for him, and learn some things about body work... so if you have info on how to strip the paint off a car, prep it, and fix small dents without bondo post awayyyyz! thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 i painted my old 74 bug.. looked pretty good bout 50 hours of body work i fixed all that rear 1/4 damage on my accord before i sold it. yes i am bragging but what would you like answered first? i dont want to type like every process down first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 ok well here it goes since my car's paint was in good condition anyway, i didnt have to sand the entire thing down. First off i went around to all the dents that i was going to remove and sanded around that area with 80 grit. i used an orbital around the dents, and then if you want, you can use steel wool in the area to scuff up the rest of the paint so the bondo sticks to it. then you add the bondo and wet sand. theres different kinds of bondo, im not really sure what theyre called, but it wouldnt take long to look it up, he just handed me the bottles. for each step of bondo/sanding, you use a different kind and move up a higher grit. the rule of thumb is, if you can feel it on your finger, you will see it, and it is entirely true. even if you think its perfect, you can always go farther. even if its a hairwidth higher, you will be able to see it. here im wetsanding with a very high grit, 1000 i think, maybe higher, and that bottle is just water that to keep it wet. if you dont strip all of the paint off like i did. you have to sand the entire car down some to scuff it up. you can take steel wool or a very high grit paper and go around the entire car and wetsand it. MAKE SURE you get all the edges and lips because if you dont, your paint will peel there as for your rust spots, you want to sand those parts down to bare metal and get rid of all the rust, then bondo sand bond sand.....blablabla so thats all i have right now, im sure i left something out because my brain is done for the day. but if you have any questions or i need to clear something up let me know. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 awesome. so i don't have to sand down the paint to bare metal? just have to scuff it up so the primer will stick to it am i correct? do you have any pics of the sol scuffed up or billy's beetle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 it depends on the condition of your paint. take it to a body shop to check though. if you dont need to go all the way, when you scuff it up, youre basically taking all the gloss out. you will be able to tell. wet sand it, wipe the water off and youll see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 well the paint on my roof is almost gone lol... i need to kill the pinstriped. and to put it simply , the paint sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 pinstripe=pwnd sounds like you should sand it on down then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 whoa look at that machine... i think by sanding it i'll OWN the pinstripes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 whoa look at that machine... thats what she said are you going to be doing the wetsand/buff/polish process after the paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 lmao. my friend will be helping me, he painted his 3000GT under a 60 watt bulb and i'm amazed at the job he did. we're prepping it this saturday, then i'm giving it to him to take to his school (Penn Tech), then he'll give it back to me.... but i have to get some cash together to pay for paint.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 make sure you do the wetsanding and part of the buffing the day after the paint or else it will become hard and be a big ol slut to do. he sprayed mine right at like 5pm. showed up 8 am the next morning, then wetsanded and did the first stage of buffing until 10 pm. ehhhhh that was a long day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 you don't have to sand and buff the day after. Body shops do that because time = money. you run MUCH higher a risk of burn through if you do it the next day. Wait a week then go at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 If he uses a Rotary Buffer at the Mercedes plant, then surely he knows the proper procedures to take to prevent burn. Don't forget though. the Mercedes you do have very hard clear....your car won't have hard clear and being fresh it will be even softer, so be extra careful and start off with a polishing pad and not a compounding pad. That's my .02 The only other reccomendation is to build up areas that might have rust with fiberglass and then do the finishing work with bondo. That will make it much more sturdy/stable and prevent cracking more in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Dude, 90, you're painting your car and fixing it? I have a thread about doing this on here since I was interested in doing it too: http://www.hondaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=15090&hl= Has lots of good info in it. Hopefully that will fill in any blanks you might have. But, I need to ask you, you think you could hook me up with this friend of yours so he could paint my sol? I mean, you like one state away from me. I could drive up and hang out with you guys and do it on a weekend. And it would make this so much cheaper. I'd be very interested in doing it, if you were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 you don't have to sand and buff the day after. Body shops do that because time = money. you run MUCH higher a risk of burn through if you do it the next day. Wait a week then go at it. if theres any imperfections in the paint and you wait a week, you will spend forever trying to get it out. i did all the work myself the the bodyshop wasnt trying to get any money from me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 well the new mercedes clear is very hard and very easy to deal with...anything older than '98 feels like sandpaper and has more swirl marks than you have in your fingerprint. John- First, since this is my friend and i'm letting him do it on my car, wait and see how it comes out on mine. I know he's very good, but i don't want you to be disappointed with your car. But i'll post pics when it's done. is fiberglass completely necessary? i thought maybe sanding, bondo, sanding would work....maybe not. i don't know much about this stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 depends how big the rust spots are. if you have quarter size holes, the obviously you need some work on that. but if its just little tiny spots, just sand it down and bondo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 yeah they're small IMO... just near the rear fenders...like a tiny bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 yeah the typical rust spots. i think your find just sanding it down to bare metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 5, 2006 Author Share Posted October 5, 2006 awesome, thanks guys! i'll post process pics, i may be rollin' with a primered car for a lil' bit lol. Ghetto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 Primer'd gen 1 integras FTW. My friend rolls in one all day long. Looks awesome. If this works out good for you I'll deffo be knockin' on your door to get mine done too. Good male bonding experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 I don't know why everybody's afraid to use fiberglass instead of bondo. You can buy a can of fiberglass mixed already in a putty that applies the same as bondo. Use that just like you would the bondo, and then finish it with the bondo. If you have rust spots, then you'll have a hole when you cut it out and nothing behind it for the bondo to hold to. If this is the case, then use fiberglass, to build the panel first. Bondo is not super strong by itself and can crack under temperature changes if it's too thick. I would only use bondo by itself on minor door dings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 Primer'd gen 1 integras FTW. My friend rolls in one all day long. Looks awesome. If this works out good for you I'll deffo be knockin' on your door to get mine done too. Good male bonding experience. Gen 2 nukka! I'm pumped. Hung- i'm sure he will know to use fiberglass first for the rust spots. I just have experience with bondo and found it really easy to work with, and i like that... One more day till i'm primer gray! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 I was just saying that if you're familiar with fiberglass, you can get some stuff that has the fiberglass already mixed into a putty. That way you could apply it just like bondo, only stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90IntegraC1 Posted October 6, 2006 Author Share Posted October 6, 2006 i've never seen that at any pep boys or auto zone... you know where i could pick some up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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