TS John Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 I tried searching for this, believe me. I'm really surprised nobody's made any real posts about this on HF yet. Here goes. Basically, I'm looking to upgrade the brakes on my 95 del sol (s model). My pads are a little low and my rotors are slightly rounded so when it comes time to step on the brakes I both hear it and feel it. Not cool. Since I'm trying to do right by my car, I want to get all new pieces that will really last. I'm looking at replacing the rotors with drilled or slotted discs up front. Performance pads all around. Replacement calipers (probably). But here's where the real question comes into play. I'd really like to get rid of the drums in the rear and put in discs. However, I'm not really too knowedgeable about what all goes into a switch like that. I'm assuming I'd need to run new brake lines back there to the new rotors and calipers, but I don't know if that's making it sound too easy. Also, I'm not at all sure if this is worthwhile and cost-effective, so if someone could inform me about that, too, it'd be pretty cool. Any and all information is appreciated. Suggested brands, retailers, etc. for the replacement parts would be nice to have too, so if you know any, post 'em up, please. Thanks very much in advance, folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 I doubt you'd have to run new lines....unless they were rusted pretty badly. You may want to upgrade to stainless braided lines instead of your old rubber lines to your calipers. <- a lot of times that is overlooked, but it really really does help. When switching from disc to drum in the rear it is quite an improvement. I love mine, and don't know how i lived with drums on all four before my resto. You have to make sure that your rear discs won't lock up when you apply the brakes. Stock setup requires more fluid to be transfered to rear drums to make them work efficiently, and when you switch over to discs that same ammount of fluid is going to be going back there which may cause the new discs to lock up. So a proportioning valve may be in order. i'd imagine when you'd get the kit it will come with brackets to mount the discs, discs, lines, new bearings, calipers and pads. It really is a simple swap. remove entire drum setup. mount on caliper brackets, put bearing on spindle, press outer bearing into disc (prolly the hardest part) bolt on disc. bolt on caliper to mounting bracket, hook up new lines. bleed, and BAM. your done. i'm prolly missing a few steps, but all in all it isn't that bad of a swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 Cool, man. You make it sound so possible. And so worth it, honestly. But, you mention getting a kit... Is that recommended or do you think I could do better piecing it together myself (similar to how piecing together a turbo setup will get you a better one cheaper)? If you think a kit is just the way to go, could you point me in the direction of a good one? I know you're not really a "Honda" man but I'm just looking for a place to start looking really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 well you could if you find a company that fabs up the brackets, (or if you are really good, make one on your own for a complete one off custom job) then you could pick up some maybe used front calipers and discs off of a similar setup with the same sized spindles, and go that route. deffinitly would be cheaper, and all it takes is a little homework. but.....if it is an odd spindle design then a company may have to make their own stuff and a kit would be easier (well about the only way) all in all....a kit would contain everything you'd need (along with instructions ) to make for a perfect swap. but.....if you do your homework, you could save a little green, and get the same quality for less. (i'm sure we could help you install them if you need assistance) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolLesHonda Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Stock drums in the rear work just fine. But that's just me. The only reason to get slotted or driller up front is mainly for looks. Sure, they keep your rotors a little cooler, but won't help braking performance at the stock size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b16bhonda Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 so for better braking performance? and to assure safe braking at higher speeds... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 5, 2006 Author Share Posted August 5, 2006 Drilled/slotted rotors aren't too much more money, so I figure I might as well go for them. Braking (both functionality and looks) is very important to me, since it's a safety thing and also I worked at NTB (all I see now are wheels, tires, suspension setups, and brake systems). I'm still checking into my options but I'm fairly sure if I end up replacing my rotors the new ones will be either slotted or drilled. I'm going to have to look into these kits. So far the only one I've seen is the Omnipower "big brakes kit" that's lots of dollars. Over $1k I think last time I checked. Also, it's only for 17+ inch wheels, which I'll have eventually (they're sitting in my garage waiting to be resurfaced and have new tires mounted on them) but not right at the time of the brake upgrade. Suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attaus Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 Big brake kits give huge improvements in braking capacity in at-the-limit and consistent high speed haul down situations. They are going to last longer, perform better, and dissapate heat quicker. If you are not going to be auto xing the Sol, then it isn't worth shelling out $800 for a Wilwood or Baer big brake kit and 17's, but if you are serious about it, it's worth the cash. New pads, lines, tires, and fluid are going to make the biggest difference in your stock setup. Slotted and drilled will make slight differences in fade, but are mainly for looks. Another beneficial thing you can do would be to get new tires. That's the first step. Decide whether you want new wheels, what size (at the same time if you want a big brake kit), and get some decent rubber. Now head to the junkyard and pick up what you won't be upgrading and swap it over. I don't know if any Del Sol's came with rear discs, but I would find out which models do and look for them at a junkyard. Any late model Honda would work for that matter, as long as its the same bolt pattern of course. If you could, getting a 5-lug conversion (BB6 Lude) will also help braking performance about 20%. At that point, you can order Brembo blanks, SS lines, pads, whatever you decide to get. Then go up front, as that's where most of the braking torque comes from. Good luck man, keep us updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 how will 5 lugs help braking preformance 20%? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 I'm not sure about that either. The rest of his post made sense to me. I actually decided to sell my 17 inch MR7s last night while I was looking at a site that sold Rotas. Those things are nice and they are cheap. So, I'll be going with 16s after all. This means cheaper tires as well, but no big brakes kit. Oh well. I already had good stopping power. It'll still be improved by new rotors and pads. Will look into replacing as much stuff new as I can. I'll try to find a kit, but if drums to discs in the rear becomes a hassle/really expensive it prolly won't happen. At least I'll be getting new rotors all around, performance pads, and maybe new calipers (depending on cost -- I might just clean and adjust the ones I got so they "work good"). It doesn't sound too expensive or difficult to run new steel braided lines instead of the rubber ones so that might happen as well. Will deffo keep updates comin'. I'm not the type who finds out what he needs and then disappears, leaving future readers hanging. I like my stuff resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 You could do the upgrade in steps so if at some point your satisfied with the braking, you could stop there. First get those rear drums adjusted, then get some braided lines all round, change your pads and rotors up front, calipers if you want, then if you still want the rear discs get a set and put em on. This way you can spread the costs around a bit, all the while impoving braking performance. Plus if you get satisfied after a step, then you aren't commited to anything. Thats the way I'm doing my suspension....first was the struts, then the swaybar front, then rear, and maybe strut bar someday in the future. I think it was ssr who said something awhile ago in a thread about ss lines not being worth it....don't listen to that crap tho. having driven with rubber, then changed to stainless it is well worth the extra money. granted since I don't have power assist brakes I will notice the slightest change in the way it is braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 I like the way you think, about doing it in stages. That's prolly how it's going down. How did the swaybars work out for you? How much do the braided lines cost, anyway? If they're as cheap as they should be (nothing with cars is, though) then for sure it should be worth it, if only to replace the old parts on an aging car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 i was going to do the rear conversion too but i decided to just get new rotors pads and calipers for the front. the front does most of the braking anyway so i dont think the conversion is necessary. and if you do get new brakes you can do the install yourself its pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 ouch....i just looked up some prices for honda's....almost $100 for a set... mine were about half of that. may not be worth it in your case where your on a limited income. I mean they help, but....not as much as rear discs would with the stock rubber lines. so if anything, do that last. sway bars worked out pretty nicely. little pricy, but they are fully adjustible <- gotta love that. makes her handle like a true track car now. we used to have a lot of body roll now, but that is all but gone with the bigger bar up front, and added bar in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Wait, you looked up prices for the braided steel lines and they were 100 bucks a set? Or is that a drum to disc conversion kit. If it's the first one that's way not worth it and if it's the second one that's actually very reasonable. You're deffo right on about the limited income. Full time student/part time worker doesn't mix well with car modding. I think I'll prolly end up cheaping out and just doing what airjordan did (not to call you cheap, man) and also replace the drums and stuff in the rear too. It just seems like the sensible thing to do, but it's still disappointing because I really do love the look of discs in the rear, and I hate nose-diving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attaus Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 how will 5 lugs help braking preformance 20%? Sorry.. torque will improve 20%. One extra lug = much more holding strength. Sould've made that more clear.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 that was for the stainless lines.....lol yeah, prolly not worth it..... mine were around $50 seperate, but they were included in the my both of kits (front and rear). Oh yeah, I know what you mean about the part time job, and college at the same time....money and time gets a little short....thats why I took a year off, so I could finish the car, and earn some extra money for school..... sadly....I don't know where all the money for school went....oh yeah thats right....into my car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 So, it looks like I won't be going for drums to discs in the rear, simply because of the expense. Maybe later I'll go down that road -- much later. I did some looking around for prices. Here's what I came up with for my shopping list: -->Two ACEI remanufactured front brake calipers ($51.61 each after refunded $40 core charge) -->Two front OEM brake discs by Brembo ($32.95 each) -->Two rear OEM brake drums by Brembo ($38.42 each) -->Performance front pad set by AEM ($45.20) -->Performance rear pad set by AEM ($43.26) Total: $414.42 - $80.00 core refund (when I send in my old calipers) = $334.42. Worth it? I hope so... This quote courtesy of www.autopartswarehouse.com I decided to ditch the idea of drilled/slotted rotors up front for two reasons. (1) Drilled rotors have a reputation for cracking and (2) The difference in price between slotted rotors and quality OEM replacements made getting remanufactured calipers more possible without breaking the bank. And since I will still have the drums in the back, there's no point in going all out on the looks up front, is there? Pyro's right about the steel lines. They get good reviews but they are expensive for Hondas. I found them for $100+ everywhere I looked. These, also, were decided against. Maybe later. Maybe. Comments would be appreciated from all you people who know more about quality brakes than I. One final question, though: Should I be looking into some remanufactured rear calipers as well? The only ones on autopartswarehouse.com were by A1 Cardone for $68.69 each after a $50 core refund, bumping my initial total up to $651.80 and my actual total to $471.80. That's pricey. Without any of the calipers my total drops to $231.20 and I don't have to wait for a refund after sending some of my old parts in. It'd be like, sweet if I could do this "remanufacturing to original OEM specifications or better" myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 I think I scared people away with the length of my last post. I was trying to make it specific for people who read it in the future. Oh well. In a nutshell: I will not be replacing drums with discs in the rear or replacing my rubber brake lines with steel braided cables because of expense. Instead I will just get new rotors/pads. Also I am considering replacing my calipers, although it doubles the expense. Is that worth it? Is there a way just to clean/adjust your own calipers so they are like the remanufactured ones they sell online? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 oh yes you can rebuild them yourself, and they usually sell kits that replace all of your seals, maybe pistons, and stuff like that. It isn't too bad to take them apart and clean up. I don't think it would be worth it to replace them, as long as they still work well. That is unless you go with bigger calipers, or calipers with more pistons. no need to adjust, calipers are self adjusting. (unless it is the rear ones with parking brake, the parking brake needs adjusted) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 They sell kits? I will be buying the kits then, since new (and by new I mean remanufactured) calipers are hella expensive. I wasn't even upgrading, just replacing my calipers since they were 11 years old. But if I can "remanufacture" them myself then that's how it's going down. My parking brake could also go with an adjustment. I'll have to look into that deal. Anyone know how to do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 They should sell them somewhere. your cable if it isn't adjustible from the handle, you need to find the cable, where it splits into 2 cables near the frame. I think you can adjust it right from there, as long as neither is stretched too badly. If it isn't either of the two methods I just described, then I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 Thanks for all your help, man. Will update when I find a good place to get caliper rebuild kits for all the kiddies in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buggman26 Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 i so need to get around trashing my drums Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted September 1, 2006 Author Share Posted September 1, 2006 Update: Just ordered new rotors/pads/shoes for the sol last night. I'm gonna take Pyro's advice and do the upgrade in stages. This way we'll actually see what a difference the calipers would make, if any, as they won't be replaced unless deemed necessary. Thanks for all your guyses help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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