amp_man Posted April 2, 2006 Share Posted April 2, 2006 I've got a 94 civic si with the 1.6L VTEC, and I need to know if the bolt in the pulley on the crankshaft is reverse (ie left-hand) threaded? In my 91 with the 1.5L, it wasn't, but so far we've destroyed two sockets (one from an air wrench set), an extension, and a breaker bar and still that bolt hasn't moved. The guy at the parts store said the bolt was reverse threaded, but I can't find any reference to it in the Haynes manual, so I didn't take his advice seriously. Also, what are the chances that the valves got trashed when the belt broke? I know some motors will do this, while others won't. I read somewhere that the DOHCs are almost guaranteed to, but this is an SOHC. Thanks for any info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 if you heard crunching when the engine stopped running thats bad , lol. if you didnt and stepped on clutch right away instead of letting tranny turn engine over and over crunch crunch , lol than yeah you need head work. and yes your pully bolt comes off like any other. leftie loosey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RazorbackMustang Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I've got a 94 civic si with the 1.6L VTEC, and I need to know if the bolt in the pulley on the crankshaft is reverse (ie left-hand) threaded? In my 91 with the 1.5L, it wasn't, but so far we've destroyed two sockets (one from an air wrench set), an extension, and a breaker bar and still that bolt hasn't moved. The guy at the parts store said the bolt was reverse threaded, but I can't find any reference to it in the Haynes manual, so I didn't take his advice seriously. Also, what are the chances that the valves got trashed when the belt broke? I know some motors will do this, while others won't. I read somewhere that the DOHCs are almost guaranteed to, but this is an SOHC. Thanks for any info Unfortunately, I believe those are interference engines, and I would guess that if the belt broke at any rpm except idle, you probably have some valve/head damage. You may need the tool that I am about to buy to remove that bolt. It's a tool that holds the crank damper in place while you loosen the bolt. And I think the bolt is standard thread, not reverse. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp_man Posted April 5, 2006 Author Share Posted April 5, 2006 Unfortunately, I believe those are interference engines, and I would guess that if the belt broke at any rpm except idle, you probably have some valve/head damage. You may need the tool that I am about to buy to remove that bolt. It's a tool that holds the crank damper in place while you loosen the bolt. And I think the bolt is standard thread, not reverse. Good luck. The bolt is a standard thread, we finally got it off today (a combonation of a little heat, a damn thick socket, and a hell of a lot of luck). Also, with the new timing belt on, the cylanders are getting 150-170 lbs of compression, so it's looking like I got damn lucky as far as valve damage goes...it appeas that the only valves that were actually opened when the belt broke (assuming the cam stopped pretty much instatly) was number 1's exhaust valves and number 4's intakes, and those are the two we got the best compression out of. Hopefully can get everything back together tomorrow and have a car again! BTW, this is the first major problem I've had in 3 years of driving hondas, my last one a 91 that now has 283k miles on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 you never had a prolem with this one technically. the only reason your belt broke is cause it was not maintained properly. your supposed to change them before that happens dude , haha. at least no damage was done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RazorbackMustang Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 The bolt is a standard thread, we finally got it off today (a combonation of a little heat, a damn thick socket, and a hell of a lot of luck). Also, with the new timing belt on, the cylanders are getting 150-170 lbs of compression, so it's looking like I got damn lucky as far as valve damage goes...it appeas that the only valves that were actually opened when the belt broke (assuming the cam stopped pretty much instatly) was number 1's exhaust valves and number 4's intakes, and those are the two we got the best compression out of. Hopefully can get everything back together tomorrow and have a car again! BTW, this is the first major problem I've had in 3 years of driving hondas, my last one a 91 that now has 283k miles on it Glad to hear everything is ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp_man Posted April 6, 2006 Author Share Posted April 6, 2006 @cranny: the paperwork I got with the car said the belt was changed at 154k, and the car's now at 176k, so even according to Honda's maintainance guidlines that belt should have been ready for replacement in another ~70k miles. So, either the previous owner lied, or needs to get a mechanic that uses better quality parts (and judging from the shape of the exhaust that was supposedly replaced at the same time, I'd say it's the first one). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 oh well man nothin you can do about that , at least theres no damage and your taking care of it now. good luck my man keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp_man Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 Okay, now I've got more issues. The car is running and back on the road, but it's running like crap. When I drove it home the night before last, it ran ok, but not wonderful, ie slight hitching, especially when I stepped on the gas. Then, yesterday morning, I had to reset the computer to get it to start. Below 2k rpms (once it gets warmed up) there's hardly any power whatsoever, and sometimes when I hit the gas from idle (roughly 200 rpms) it will not react at all, drop in rpms, or stall out entirely (which almost got me nailed more times than I care to count). Once I get it up to speed and over 2500rpms, it has more power, but it's slow to respond when I hit the gas, and still has the same slight hitching issue. Any ideas where I should be looking for the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxscaxx Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 ouch. check the distributor, wires, and ignition coil. sounds like what i had on my old d15 motor and it turned out to be the ignition coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 sounds like you may be off a tooth. does the car spark knock when under load? thats a sure fire sign. take cover off and have a look again make sure marking are all where they are suposed to be. did you reset timing altogether or mark where it came off and put it back on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp_man Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 well, since the belt broke, marking wasn't an option. we used the marks on the engine to line the cam and crank both up to top dead center, then moved the cam clockwise a notch, like we had to with our (my dad and I both have them) 91 civics, with the d15. Is this possibly the issue? edit: and yes, it does sound like there's a slight knock when under load, but the exhaust and studded snow tires make too much noise to be absolutely sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 your off a tooth. set timing again making sure the marks are on. thats your only issue. to make this easier for you if you never did it this way before. take your spark plugs out so theres not compression , than the engine is not movin on its own when your tryin to get it stay on a compression stroke. also make sure your using the right mark on the crank pully. theres no moving ahead a notch i dont know where yas got that. line the crank up on the first notch. line the cam up with its pointer and slide belt on without disturbing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amp_man Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 Hate to bring back an old topic, but just wanted to say thanks. @cranny, the timing belt off a tooth was something that we'd seen when replacing the belts on our 91 d15s, both belts were off a notch when we pulled them. A simple reset of the belt (which didn't even require pulling it back apart, thankfully) set everything straight, and she's running beautifully once again...I'm just minus a few tools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HondaFreakGeek Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Hello: I just change my 96 Civic and getting the bolt to break loose was a great work out. I started off with a 17MM deep well socket and needed a 1/2 inch but only had a 3/8 drive and I put the adapter to allow be to use my breaker bar. Yes, you guess it I snapped it in 10 seconds. I went to sears hardware and bought a 10 dollar deep well 1/2 drive 17MM socket and was back at it. I grabbed two 1/2 inch extensions randomly out of the trusty tool box and was using my 36 inch steel bar that covers the breaker bar to get more ump and got movement on the breaker bar and turn one half revolution to realize I had grabbed an old W-mart extension and a craftsman. You can guess which one twisted in split in half. I then reach in the trusty old tool box and got an additional Craftsman and took a 2x4 to stand up and rest my extensions on the breaker and cheater bar and pushed with all my might in the left direction (lefty off rightly on etc.) and the bolt came loose! I was thinking I would be breaking my bolt off before ever budging loose! So here are my tips 1. Order the tool to hold the pulley in place and spend the twenty bucks to allow you to put an additional breaker bar on the pulley remover tool. This tool is a hexagon type tool that fits in the pulley and allow a good strong non cheap ass tools (I learned from experience) and then put your breaker bar with a 36 inch bar on the unit and push with all your might. Be sure that the breaker bar holding the pulling is stable and does not move. (You can get a friend to place their foot on the bar to keep it steady) alien Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Why did you post that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HondaFreakGeek Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Why did you post that? Was in response to the first question: I've got a 94 civic si with the 1.6L VTEC, and I need to know if the bolt in the pulley on the crankshaft is reverse (ie left-hand) threaded? In my 91 with the 1.5L, it wasn't, but so far we've destroyed two sockets (one from an air wrench set), an extension, and a breaker bar and still that bolt hasn't moved. The guy at the parts store said the bolt was reverse threaded, but I can't find any reference to it in the Haynes manual, so I didn't take his advice seriously. Also, what are the chances that the valves got trashed when the belt broke? I know some motors will do this, while others won't. I read somewhere that the DOHCs are almost guaranteed to, but this is an SOHC. Thanks for any info It was my first post and I had googled a similar topic to find and answer to another problem while uncovering this forum. I thought everyone would want to know the amount of torque applied to get my pulley bolt to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolcat467 Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 The last post before yours was in April of 06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nippaz Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 new here and was going to embark on this scary task of replacing my timing belt. i've already bought oem timing belt, water pump, alternator belt and power steering belt (might as well replace em all with hands dirty) and feel i'm ready to do this. but as much as i'm confident in myself, i'm hearing too many bad things about possibly messing this up. so hence i'm gathering information here. first of all, thank you all for helping. secondly, how do i find top dead center on the #1 cylinder? pull off distributor cap and then???? thirdly, where would i find the 0 degree mark on the timing scale? in a previous post, someone mentioned marking the belt and the cams? i haven't broken my timing belt yet, thankfully, so would this work? i mean can i just mark certain areas and make sure those line up with the new belt on? thanks again all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 My best advise is get a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. It has illustrated step by step instructions on exactly what you need to do. And yes, marking your cam gear is a good idea in some cases. ...also, no need to resurrect a 7 month dead thread (which incidentally had already been dead since April 06 until some other newb posted in it). Just make a new one if you have a question. Oh yeah, and welcome to HondaForums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nippaz Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 My best advise is get a Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. It has illustrated step by step instructions on exactly what you need to do. And yes, marking your cam gear is a good idea in some cases. ...also, no need to resurrect a 7 month dead thread (which incidentally had already been dead since April 06 until some other newb posted in it). Just make a new one if you have a question. Oh yeah, and welcome to HondaForums. thanks for the advice and the welcome.... yeah, other forums usually are adamant about keeping threads jumbled together. so i didn't know whether to start a new one or to post in an existing one....but good to know from now on. i have a haynes manual somewhere but can't friggin find it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostedflake Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Its a must to get a book for the car. I just did the T-belt on my car and it was a pain but its not that bad. just make sure to take your time and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask someone before you break something. And no the crank bolt is not reverse threaded. you just need a good impact wrench and loads air pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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