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Ah, Lovely...


darksaint

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Got in my teg today, ready go to see the doc to check if I have strep (I don't), and what light stays on? Check Engine. Ruh roh. I haven't had this car a week. So after the doc I go to AutoZone and they check it. P0420 problem, I'll tell you exactly what the ticket says:

 

The PCM has determined that the catalyst system efficiency for bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)

 

WTF...

 

So either something is wrong with the cylinder or the catalytic converter? Anyone know?

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Will I harm any major part of my car if I drive on a faulty CC for too long? (In case it isn't covered and I have to foot $300 for a new CC) I am guessing that as long as I don't have to E-Check my car for pollutants and it's not spitting black ash out the muffler I should be fine.

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yeah, without a cat converter/exhaust, your car will sound like a hoopty. just make sure you dont have to get your car inspected anytime soon...its illegal to drive without a cat converter. by the way, where are you from? i need to know so i can wear my gas mask :)

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My friend removed most of his exhaust system and it sounds like a monster, after a while of hard driving you can smell molten metal and chemicals from right under the shifter. bleh

 

It sounds like a modded S2000 but it's really just a Kia Sephia. :laugh:

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From a website:

 

P0420 : Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold

What it is

The main purpose of this code is that the computer detects that the catalytic converter is not working efficiently to remove harmful gases.

 

The cause

I used to get this code every week even though I only had a Stromung rear section exhaust and my car only had around 20,000 miles. Usually, you would get this code if you change the exhaust manifold with a custom header and/or bigger cat-back exhaust system. But, I got it quite a number of times. It turns out, this code was triggered every week because the computer did not like my new modified intake system. I have a Ganzflow and a K&N air filter. Everything else on the intake system is stock. Just to note, Ganzflow and K&N airfilter alone do not throw the CE light. However, I also removed the little plastic pieces under the bumper turning signal. Removing the one on the passenger side increases the air volume and efficiency. The computer notices this increase in air efficiency, and richens the air/fuel ratio. The engine cannot seem to burn that little extra fuel, goes straight to the catalytic converter where it still cannot remove the richened air/fuel mixture, and the rear O2 sensor reads it as catalyst inefficiency. That's my speculation. The rear O2 sensor kept on reading "slightly rich" also.

 

Symptoms

Nothing. The car actually ran better with the CEL on sometimes.

 

Solution

Ever since I reinstalled those plastic pieces back into the bumper, I have not seen that code. The A/F ratio gauge reads at middle of the gauge (stoich.) at cruising speed. If you have a header and/or aftermarket exhaust system, then the only solution is to either install a device to fool the rear O2 sensor, or keep clearing the CE code.

 

 

 

huh

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I could go get it e-checked for $20 to see if the converter is dead... if it works fine and the chip is malfunctioning, I am guessing that means the engine thinks it can work smoother and still the converter will work fine...hmm maybe it's not such a bad thing... it was cruising rather well I must say :D

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Now my brakes are starting to squeal when applied (could just be moisture), and there's a VERY noticible vibration/thumping from the left front tire while decellerating. My friend said it sounds like loose lugs, a loose brake shoe or the rotor is grinding. Also there's a metal on metal rapping sound/tapping sound that occurs sometimes when going straight but mostly when turning the car to the left.

 

This car was Honda Certified on 11/12/02. I do not drive the piss out of it and I have not applied suddenly or harshly ever. What's the deal? I expect problems with a used car, but not this soon and not this frequently.

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I found out the vibration was indeed loose lugnuts, so we retightened them by hand. About 4 days later, we hear and feel a slight vibration again. We get out of the car and we retighten, 1/4 turn on some of them. The edges seem rusted a bit, or slightly warped. They seem to be loosening on their own. Is there any way to stop this?

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that is so not safe.. go buy some new lugs.. dont keep retightening your messed up lugs. id hate to see you get into an accident. better safe now than sorry.. you can go buy gorilla lug locks at your local tire and wheel shops...like discount tire or something. you'll need it if you have aftermarket wheels or if you plan on getting them so you can buy them now so you wont have to later :)

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Thanks for the tip. Also, would getting a new ECU chip or resetting the one I currently have possibly fix the Check Engine light I am getting? It is saying something is wrong with my catalytic converter but I really think it's the 02 sensor that needs adjusting/reset. Any tips would be awesome.

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dude...you have to get gorilla lug locks for aftermarket wheels? i've never heard that. odd.

 

as for you cat converter. i'd say that if the ecu says its the cat, then its the cat. you could probably take it somewhere and have them check out both the cat and the o2 sensor to see how they are working...and if need be maybe they can fix whatever problem it is.

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Ugh.. why does this damn stuff happen to me... it's always this simplistic garbage that is only a mere obstacle in my existence yet provides a large enough inconvenience that I have to stop my life for a while so that something so small and trivial must be fixed because some IDJIT didn't do their job correctly.

 

DAMN IT. :mad:

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