TS John Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 I've just finished searching through the int/ext section and found surprisingly little advice on how to get a nice paint-job by painting your own car. I know it's better to get it done pro-style, but I am gonna fix the dents in my car with a hammer and some bondo, plus de-rustify it a little, and it's going to need paint after all that. Only problem is, I ain't got the cash for a final paintjob at a body shop, and even if I did it would be going towards a motor. So, I was thinking of doing a sort of "interim paintjob" so that I'm not rollin' bare metal with bondo until I can finish modding and engine swapping my sol and get it painted professionally. My friends used flat black spray paint to do both their accord and integra, and it actually came out looking okay (deffo better than metal and bondo), but I was hoping to get it looking a little more legit than that. I'm looking for advice on what equipment to get to do something like this, and perhaps a few suggestions on what to do. I read the prep stuff in 2000dc_itr's "What to do first" thread and that was very helpful. Anything else I should know? Specifics, please. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attaus Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqpnt.htm Veeery good write up. I wrote a good page of notes on there. Long read, but if you're serious about it, you'll find everything you need to know. Listen to what he recommends, not what he does. He skimped over some of the important stuff (which he explains), so don't do the same. All of the companies he mentions, tools, etc.. everything is up to date. I'll see if I can find the notes for you, but if I can't, write some notes down as you go along. It will reinforce the info and you can look over it later. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 Cool, I'll check that out in detail later, when I'm not too sleepy. Thanks, man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphries Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 VR painted his teg green when he had it.. help him out VR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted April 20, 2006 Author Share Posted April 20, 2006 I saw that thread. It looked nice as hell. I don't need something _that_ pro looking (it is, after all, an interim job), but if it's not too expensive/difficult to get something like that, then I'm all for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted April 20, 2006 Share Posted April 20, 2006 Here is exactly what you are looking for.....short, to the point, and very very informative. I followed this procedure almost exactly, and my car came out looking better than I ever expected. Will post some pics after I'm done wetsanding and buffing finish. Paint process explained. there is one thing that I would do differently next time.... color sand the base coat if there is trash and other nibs in it. There will be since you are not doing it in a paint booth. Get all the nibs out, then shoot clear coat. If you don't, you will leave little black specks beneath your clear. Most people say it isn't necessary to color sand the base, but in this case I think it would be better. other than that, the explanation is about perfect. BTW: if you are worried about getting a run it doesn't really matter, because they can be sanded out. So it isn't really that big of a deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VR17 Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 its not hard at all. just takes time and patients. not alot of money either. stuff youd need. paint, oem paint runs around 35-40 dolla a pint. a spray gun 200-1000$$$ a pint is about.. hmm a lil less half a cars worth painting. sand paper, id start off with a low grit and move up depending on smoothness. lets say you have a scratch, use the 300-400 grit, then 600. etc after then when it feels some what smooth like newpaper, use the 1000 girt. get about 2-4 girts each grit too. like 4 of each or something, its always good for backup. just in case you run out and you need a freshie. okay after your done with that. your gonna need some primer paint, about4-5$ a can. buy like 3-4 if your doing your entire car. get some masking tape, and masking paper. home depot is cheap so get the long one. and when your roll runs out newspaper works too. tape the masking tape over parts of car, lights, windows, tires wheels, etc.. start off with a smooth spray of primer over . stay a distance about 2-3 feet. too close of a spay would just make stuff sag, not gonna matter really, its just primer, if you do mess up just let it dry and get the 600- 1000 grit to sand and redo okay after your done and it looks good. if your doing this at home make sure you have your gun ready, and an air compresser. also id get the water hose from outside, and water down the inside of garage. this is a good tip if you dont want in insides of your garage all colorie. face it down the driveway. that way when you paint it, it will run down the hill. okay put on a mask, open garage door, tape everything down to reduce dust and what not. doing this would also prevent paint on home items.. etc give it a good gloss shot. about 20-30 sprays left to right, make sure you cover everything, itl come out nice and clean. after your done have a smoke or 2 because it might be tiring. after that get the clear coat ready. repeat step paint the car. and try not to inhale the clear coat.. its like smoking 40 newports lol reverse car, let it bake in sun. then the next day go to osh and buy some 1000-2000 wetgrit sand paper. since you painted it, theres gonna be a few dust particals on your car, since its done at home and the fact its not prfessional done, your gonna have to feel and see how you can make it to A++ quality. not hard at all its kinda like poping the pimples on your face. okay and your done heres the ending results for my integ a few years ago http://www.hondaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=6566 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attaus Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 Paint guns are actually really cheap. An HVLP paint gun (professional grade) will run you $40 with a pressure gauge. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=90977 Harbor freight is top quality. It may not look that way, but trust me on this one. Don't get scammed into those chrome eBay ones with the gravity feed. The compressor will be the tough part. The link I provided gave good info over that about CFM and PSI along with compressor care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VR17 Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 oh nice find. i bought mine like 5-6 years ago.. still works like a snapons ratchet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrorocketeer Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=90977 Harbor freight is top quality. It may not look that way, but trust me on this one. Don't get scammed into those chrome eBay ones with the gravity feed. that is a gravity fed gun you posted too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ap1drvr Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 I like my Finex FX300 http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/Sharpe/sharpe.html I use an older Sharpe Cobalt for primer and the Finex for the base & clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attaus Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 that is a gravity fed gun you posted too Haha, my bad.. I must've been tired. The ones with the cans on the bottom of the nozzle are the cheap ones.. if you tilt it or the paint is low, it starts to sputter. Bad results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted April 21, 2006 Author Share Posted April 21, 2006 So only 40 or so bucks for the gun? That's good news. My buddy's got a compressor, so that will help a lot. Thanks very much for all the helpful info. I'll be sure to post before and after pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attaus Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 Do you know what the CFM @ PSI is? You need to know otherwise you might get bad results. The compressor you need is a big mother f*cker.. 25 gallon tank or bigger. That is unless you want to turn the gun off every 5 seconds. It also needs to turn out at least what the gun is rated at.. or better. Preferably better, because if it can't move enough air to supply the gun, you will also get bad results. This is tricky work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 I'll try to be careful. Don't worry, I'll be checkin' every detail before I do this. My car is my baby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attaus Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 My notes --- PLANNING $80 per quart - look up paint colors + costs 1 - 2 quarts of paint for one coat filler for small cracks/dents.. necessary Acrylic urethane/urethane based are most effective/last longer Use compliable priming/painting supplies. cheap primers will not mix with expensive paint alot $75 - 100 for clear coat. VERY IMPORANT!!! remove everything possible, including bumpers, quarter panels, tail lights, head lights, glass, etc. mechanical/chemical/abrasive removal mechanical is hard to reach spots, chemical is good but can leave some behind, abrasive is best, but needs compressor and bucket and sand MASK mask is very important as fumes will cause central nervous system damage. find mask apropraite for diisocyanate exposure. paper mask won't do anything. with the right mask you won't smell thinner/chemicals. $20 COMPRESSORS air guns rated at 10 - 50 psi get a compressor rated ABOVE the gun requirement 7 - 10 CFM at 30 - 90 psi, 3 - 5 hp in a 25 - 35 gallon tank ($150) Before spraying to remove water open all of the valves to remove pressure and place in dry area (garage) do not pressurize until an hour before spraying. maybe pressurize for test run then de-pressurize overnight GUNS guns can be rated from 9.5 to 14.5 CFM or more and 10 - 50 psi and can be picked up for $50 make sure compressor is rated above gun, or learn to pause TESTING use cardboard or plywood to test different settings of air and CFM to find best result use flat piece of metal under similar conditions (primed) to see how much paint is required to run and find ratio FIND GOOD RATIO. DO NOT USE OTHER NUMBER. too much paint will cause runs, too little wont cover it. too little air will make the paint splatter and too little will make it mist. watch the air inlet hole and make sure it doesn't get clogged with paint, and also check the nozzle once you spray the panel, keep the air flowing on the panel to help it set. not too much air or it will blow around and sag, but enough to help it set. DO NOT SPRAY, JUST AIR SET-UP A gallon of fresh clean thinner. The solvent that is made to "cut" the paint that you will be shooting, you should get it at the same place you buy your paint. A clean, glass kitchen type measuring cup (yes, BUY one, don't steal the wife's!!) A stack of clean, large (like 12 oz or better) paper or plastic cups. If you use plastic, test one first with your thinner to make sure it doesn't dissolve it. Some cheaper plastic cups will dissolve. CLEAR Paint strainers, a box of them. Cheap, get them at your paint supply store, and I think Harbor Freight sells them. A whole bunch of clean popsicle sticks or something else to stir paint with and dispose of. A bag of latex painters gloves. Home Depot sells a bag of about 100 for cheap. VERY IMPORTANT. Thinner will harm hands. Get them, very important, keeps skin oils off freshly prepped surfaces too. A large jar or can to pour waste solvent into. (for HVLP guns) Some kind of rig to hold your gun while you put paint in it. You will need to get catalyst/hardener/thinner to mix with paint. DO NOT GET IN PAINT CAN. mix seperately check pot life of the paint, and do not leave excess paint in the gun. clean gun when paint is removed. do not let sit. hardened urethane paint cannot be cut with a thinner CLEANUP DO NOT RUN WATER THROUGH GUN. EVER EVER EVER. Use thinner and run the gun until liquid becomes clear. judge the amount of time and do the same when cleaning clear coat. when it is mostly done, (with goggles and mask) spray some thinner on the paper towl (make sure its thinner! pour more if nec.) and wipe the gun down. make it count if this is the final cleanup, take the nozzle off and check the air passages and blow air throughout the nozzle/cup SANDING DA (dual action) sander will not leave marks and is preferable (DA prevents swirl marks in the paint) may cost $50 so borrowing one is preferable electric wood sanders SUCK!!!!. Do not use them. limited sucess. DO NOT USE THEM!!!!!!!! wet sanding is a possible option but get the right papers, wet panel and paper, and do not use fingertips MASKING buy a couple of *NEW* rolls of masking tape in 1" and 2" patterns MASK EVERYTHING OFF. Wheel wells, windows, etc. anwhere that isn't painted SHOULDN'T BE PAINTED ENVIRONMENT work in a clean, dry, dust free environment. a garage type area with good ventilation and no wind is preferable dust is the enemy. clean out the garage by hooking up a gun and cleaning EVERYTHING out. garage should be empty and completely clean PREPERATION before you "think" you're done, grab a light and go over the surfaces, at night if nec. then leave, do something, come back, and do it again - it's worth it go over every piece of tape and masking and check for gaps. get small pieces of tape and cover crevices if nec. before you paint, spray the floor as the dust will stick to the water and not the paint then, pull the car in and wipe it down with a lint free rag, clean it, then do it again dial up the gun to 40 psi, and spray the car down with air get as many lights as possible and shine them in every angle possible. natural light can disguise imperfections even when well lit TRANSITIONS find a way to maksk off or paint transitions on hard/rolled edges to make it flow. re-sand the areas that were painted undesirably if nec. do not paint over them as you will create a high spot you may want to check the engine bay/jams/etc. if the car is a vastly different color make it match SUPPLIES: 3M respiratory mask - $20 suit - ??? 3 - 5 hp compressor - $150 DA sander - $0 - 50 sanding tools in respective grits (80 - 1500) - $5 degreaser - $4 filler - $15 lint-free rag - $5 spray gun (HVLP pref.) - $35 2-stage urethane primer - $30 2-stage urethane base coat - $75 a quart 2-stage urethane top (clear) coat - $30 masking materials (tape, paper) - $20 THE STEPS: Wash the car! remove any dirt as well as you can. after the car is originally cleaned, remove certain things (head lights/tail lights/mirros etc to get dirt that you may find later Remove all excess panels not related to the actual frame. Front bumper/quarter panels/doors/rear bumper/etc. Grab sand paper/block and go over everything including removed parts to get hard dirt spots wipe the car down with de-greaser to remove invisible oils. THEY ARE THERE!! put on filler very lightly (not to cover dents) to even the painting surface, let cure, and sand with 220 grit mask the car for primer, going over the body with a light to CHECK ALL FILLING/SANDING blow off the whole car with clean (no oil/water!) air, sweep the garage, spray the car again, spray the floor with water and then wipe the car down with a clean lint free rag get clothes ready and mix primer prime the car checking for all imperfections and make sure you cover the WHOLE!! car sand the primed coat with 400 - 600 grit sandpaper. re-spray if nec. when you are satisfied, wipe the car down with a clean, wet rag, then blow it dry with compressed air prep car for base coat spray the car down with clean air, wet the floor, wipe the car down with a lint-free rag mix up the paint and shoot. keep the air flowing!! let dry spray an additional coat. the more the better. inspect the base coat and wet sand it down with a 600 - 1200 paper until glass-smooth. wipe down with a wet rag, blow it dry with clean air, then wipe down with a lint-free rag spray the car with a urethane clear first in a light coat, let it flash dry (10 - 15 min) then spray a heavy coat DONE!!!! Hope that helps. As you can tell, I wrote them for myself.. so.. anything unusual you may see is for my use.. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VR17 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 nice work.. i should sticky this for reference o:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 I think I'm going to paint my car this winter. Same color. Thinking about a SATA gun since I'll hopefully start doing project cars like I want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VR17 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 I think I'm going to paint my car this winter. Same color. Thinking about a SATA gun since I'll hopefully start doing project cars like I want to. hmmmm i thought you didnt care about that sorta stuff chris? your all go, why the show? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 RICER. Unless the paint helps aerodynamically. (j/k) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 If I do that engine setup I posted in the Engine forum, then I will be redoing my entire car from the ground up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS John Posted April 24, 2006 Author Share Posted April 24, 2006 Wow, this thread got stickied. So exciting. Haha... Thanks very much to Attaus for doing his very in-depth write up. If people take the advice in this forum and paint their own rides, make sure to post pics of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VR17 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 Wow, this thread got stickied. So exciting. Haha... Thanks very much to Attaus for doing his very in-depth write up. If people take the advice in this forum and paint their own rides, make sure to post pics of them. i did.. well i took my basic instints lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricehater86 Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 I'd spray on some PPG DP 90 Epoxy Primer that will protect the car from corrosion until your ready for paint. The only thing is that it will give it that flat black look. When your ready for paint then scuff it up spray a fresh coat of DP 90 then put your paint on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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