ahorner Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hey guys, long time reader, first time poster. I have a 96 Accord in my garage, and I'm going to pick up a 94 Accord EX that doesn't fire for a really good price this week. Guy that is selling it said the fuel filter was clogged, but can't really trust that. My list of things to check: Fuel filter, Main relay, Ignition, and Distributor. Not sure if there is a CEL but I will pull it if there is and report back. Looking for any input on which to check first, what to add to my list, etc. Thanks for all the help. EDIT: My 96 Accord has a pretty rough body and the trans is starting to slip. Figured it would be better to just use that as a backup and not dump anymore money into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 step one, check for codes. step two, turn key, listen for fuel pump. step three, check spark i want pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 step one, check for codes. step two, turn key, listen for fuel pump. step three, check spark i want pics. I won't be able to touch the car until Thursday, but I will definitely. Since it is a 94, I assume OBDI or will I get lucky and have OBDII? EDIT: Until then, some pics of my current ride. About the tail light, I guess the previous owner backed up into something. http://i.imgur.com/6X8uk.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Dh4zg.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4uXwG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/YTsp8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7Hn1F.jpg http://i.imgur.com/lCM79.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turtlehead Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 You are on the right track, but do not start with the filter. They are hard to get to if you don't have the correct tools and if you break the fuel line to the tank then you will be in more then you want. Based on my years of experience I would do the following: 1. You can probably rent a fuel pressure gauge for free at an after market parts store, connect to the service connector on the back of the fuel rail, place the gauge up near the windshield so you can see it from in the car and turn the key to the on position. If you see some pressure build then I would skip the filter for now...If no pressure then have someone turn the car to the on position while you stick your head in the trunk and listen for the fuel pump. It should kick on for 2 seconds when the key is switched on. 2. While cranking the engine over check the tach signal at the coil connector with a test light. If the light does not flicker or is very dim while flickering then the likely cause is the ignitor or power supply. If you end up thinking it is the ignitor then I recommend try to swap one from another car (maybe a friends) and is if it fixes it. Other then that main PGMFI relay, the electrical portion of the ignition switch, someone could have taken the distributor off and re-installed it with the distributor shaft off by 180 degrees, coil could be bad etc. etc... Also, ENSURE that all the fuses are good, it is not always that simple but every once in a while it is. Essentially before replacing anything figure out what you can swap from your 96 (a.k.a. PGMFI Relay are the same PN/ for each car) to rule things out, and obviously chase the problem with a test light i.e. do you have power to the ignition switch, if so with the key in the on position do you have power out of the switch, with the key in the on position do you have power to the coil and so the chase goes on. Post back with your findings after you get your hands on the car and have a chance to look at it and we will try and help you further if needed. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 My dad when ahead and picked the car up for me finally, as I was not able to get home last weekend. I will go home tonight and mess with the car but he said it fired right up and he drove it away, no problem. Although, he did say the speedo wasn't working. How would I go about diagnosing and fixing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 could be unplugged, bad cluster, bad VSS, or bad wiring.. try to find someone local with a vss you can borrow and a cluster. if those dont do it, trace wires... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 I was finally able to take a look at the car. Body is in pretty good shape for a 94. Anyway, the speedometer stays at 15 while the car is on, would swapping the Vss from my 96 Accord work, or would it even fit? Power steering resivoir was empty when I got it, filled it up but still nothing. And I have a head gasket leak which I assume was why the previous owner couldn't get it started (water in cylinders) Note: The cruise still works even though the speedometer doesn't, leaving me to believe that the VSS is fine. Edit: Had a CEL, pulled and got 22 22 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch ABS light also blinked 4 times, pause, then 8 times. Rear left wheel sensor, I'll check this tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hopefully getting my head gasket replaced tomorrow. Power steering has a big leak somewhere but I haven't looked at it yet. Anybody want some pics of anything specific while it's still light out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 Head almost off. Should be done tomorrow. Nice and milky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Quick update. Replaced the head gasket this afternoon, almost no problems. Went to start it and it fired right up, ran for a while and put some antifreeze in it, but we must have messed up that metal coolant tube that runs from the block to the theromstat because it was leaking considerably from there. Now trying to figure out how to fix that without taking the whole head off again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 taking the intake mani off can get to the back tube... the rubber seals on each end are like 5 bucks (for both) from honda. sadly, it might be your thermostat though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 I think the hose itself is bent on the bottom end, I didn't know it was there when we were pulling the head off and we were kinda rough with it. I was hoping I could just take out the thermostat housing and pull the tube through, but there's just not enough room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 sorry, i didn't mean thermostat..... i meant water pump... when they go bad, they leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 No, the pump is fine it was not leaking when the car was running before. It was definitely leaking from the bottom of that tube. It sucks that I can't just pull it out. Looks like I'll be taking off my intake tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahorner Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Thanks for the help guys, I finished putting that tube back and reassembled everything, then went ahead and sold the car. Trading some of the cash from that plus my 96 for a 2000 Accord next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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