90 accord will crank but not start

[90lx]

i just bought a 90 accord lx that needed a new clutch. it ran just fine every time i started it before starting the clutch work. after i finished the clutch it started and drove just fine for about an hour (including 20 sitting and idling in the garage). after testing it out around the block a couple of time it just shut off. now it will not start at all, it will crank and crank, but never catches and starts. i have already confirmed i am getting fuel and the relays all work just fine. i have also tested the coil and the ignitor and everything came up fine, but i still have no spark at the spark plugs. this is my first foreign car so i have no idea what i am doing other then the tests i have already tried which i got off of forums. any advice on what i should try now? prefer to test things rather then randomly replace them, but at this point i will try just about anything. thanks in advance.

[Xeryon]

Make sure you didn't break the timing belt, and test the distributor.

[90lx]

the timing belt is still intact. i can see everything still spin when i try to start it. the dist i tested following these guidelines already

 

To check the ignition coil, measure the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the -, white/blue wire, terminal of the coil. The resistance should be about 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70° F. Then check the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the coil wire terminal. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F.

 

 

As for the igniter, if the tachometer is working, then the igniter is okay. Here is the procedure for checking the igniter.

 

1.Remove the distributor cap, the rotor and the leak cover.

2.Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter unit.

3.Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 4.

4.Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 5.

5.Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.

6.Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit.

7.If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit

[Xeryon]

I hate to say it but it looks like you are to the replace and test phase. There comes a point in any diagnosis where everything is testing fine and the next step points you into a never ending circle. I would hit up your local parts shop at this point and pick up some of the items in question, verify a favorable return policy and go from there.

 

Don't be discouraged if you didn't find a specific failure source with testing. There are always portions of a system that cannot be tested and sometimes even readings within tolerances do not mean it is working correctly. In a car that old sometimes a part operating within specification is actually working outside of functioning tolerance range of the other (old and worn) parts in the system.

[Escape-performance]

How did you test the fuel? I would pop the rail with injector and watch while someone cranks for you.