gigigirrl Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 My wife's 2000 civic LX has to crank for several seconds before it will start. I don't have a check engine light and no codes. It has a good battery and spark. What I'm leaning towards is a fuel problem. I changed the fuel filter and pump. I still have the same condition. After the car starts and runs for a while, I can turn it off and come back later (after dining or shopping) and it starts right up. It seems to only have this problem if the car sits for an extended period of time.(like overnight) Maybe a slow pressure leak somewhere? I don't have a gauge to check this. I have seen in the book that there is a fuel pressure regulator, however, it doesn't say where it is located. Could this be a possible culprit? I'm willing to order a gauge if I need to. (recommendations?) What do you think? gigi's husband Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostedflake Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 It could be dirty injectors causing it, but it doesnt do it all the time though. there is a fuel pressure regulator located on your fuel rail, it is a little round thing with two hoses running to it. one from the intake manifold and the other is a fuel return line. it might be worth getting a fuel pressure gauge to check it, but it could also be an ignition issue like the distributor or coil. one of my friends car did the same thing when it was cold, it turned out to be the coil going out. one more question, does it only happen when the car is below 1/4 of a tank of gas or all the time, because my car does that when its below 1/4 tank until I fill up. I don't know why it does it but it always has and so does my mom's integra gsr also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 It could be dirty injectors causing it, but it doesnt do it all the time though. there is a fuel pressure regulator located on your fuel rail, it is a little round thing with two hoses running to it. one from the intake manifold and the other is a fuel return line. it might be worth getting a fuel pressure gauge to check it, but it could also be an ignition issue like the distributor or coil. one of my friends car did the same thing when it was cold, it turned out to be the coil going out. one more question, does it only happen when the car is below 1/4 of a tank of gas or all the time, because my car does that when its below 1/4 tank until I fill up. I don't know why it does it but it always has and so does my mom's integra gsr also. i've noticed the rough starting at low fuel levels too and i think it just has to do with an old fuel pump. what i do when i'm low on gas is put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position without turning the motor on, put my seat belt on and fiddle with the radio for a sec, then crank the car over and i think this gives the fuel pump enough time to build enough pressure to turn over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigigirrl Posted April 4, 2009 Author Share Posted April 4, 2009 After the car has set overnight, I cracked open the fuel line at the fuel rail. I didnt notice any pressure in the line. Is this normal? After it has run for a while, and I shut it off, I crack open the line and I get some spray and pressure. I checked for vacume at the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it is good. How can you test to see if it is bad? I have recently replaced the Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I'm not sure how to tell if the coil is going bad. I am going to check the Battery load test soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 After the car has set overnight, I cracked open the fuel line at the fuel rail. I didnt notice any pressure in the line. Is this normal? After it has run for a while, and I shut it off, I crack open the line and I get some spray and pressure. I checked for vacume at the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it is good. How can you test to see if it is bad? I have recently replaced the Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I'm not sure how to tell if the coil is going bad. I am going to check the Battery load test soon. the pressure would slowly back off as the gas went back into the tank. how hard is it to really crank over. do you hvae to sit there for a couple of minutes and bby it? or does it just hold the key over a little longer than normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigigirrl Posted April 4, 2009 Author Share Posted April 4, 2009 the pressure would slowly back off as the gas went back into the tank. how hard is it to really crank over. do you hvae to sit there for a couple of minutes and bby it? or does it just hold the key over a little longer than normal? I have to hold the key over a little longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 I have to hold the key over a little longer. oh that's no biggy, my car is the same way when i'm bellow 1/4 tank or when its cold out. all the fuel drains out of the lines while its sitting so it just needs to be primed before it will fire up. instead of starting the car up right away, put the key in the ignition and turn it over as far as it will go without turning the motor over, then buckle ur seat belt and all that stuff. then when you go to start it will fire right up. by tunring the key into the on position it activates the fuel pump and gives it enough time to build up enough pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigigirrl Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 my car is the same way when i'm bellow 1/4 tank or when its cold out. all the fuel drains out of the lines while its sitting so it just needs to be primed before it will fire up. instead of starting the car up right away, put the key in the ignition and turn it over as far as it will go without turning the motor over, then buckle ur seat belt and all that stuff. then when you go to start it will fire right up. by tunring the key into the on position it activates the fuel pump and gives it enough time to build up enough pressure. hi i am going to chime in- this is gigigirrl the dw- technically the answer "I have to hold the key over a little longer" is true but its more like - what i used it do was push the clutch turn the key - car starts let go of key. Now its hold the key a few more seconds- let go- engine tries to start - I have to repeat that once or twice. It won't start at all if i just hold the key turned, plus this happens when it is cold outside or warm outside, temp doesn't matter. I have tried turning the key in position to activate the pump. Also like dh said he replaced the pump. The tank is half to 3/4 full. He put Heet in yesterday. In the past 3 months i have made about 5 trips to a neighboring state - about 400 round trip each. He thought it might be possible i got bad gas- with water. the problems started after the last trip. This part of the prob has been happening for about 3 weeks. The following prob has been going on for about the last 5 days. Once it starts and we are driving it chugs intermittently. If i happen to be stopped when it chuggs it dies. Once I have drove for 3-5 miles it stops chugging and i dont have any problems. I can park and be gone from the car even 3 hours and it will start right away. Its only from a cold start that we have this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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