Jump to content

94 Honda Accord EX Starting problem


killersoundz

Recommended Posts

Got a 94 Honda Accord EX that is really ticking me off.

 

Left the headlights on and the battery drained. Came out wouldn't start after jumping. Got a new battery. Still wouldn't start. Everything works electrically but when I turn the key to III it just won't crank at all. Not even a solenoid click.

 

Determined it was the ignition switch after pulling off the 7-P connector that goes from the ignition switch to the fuse box. I jumped the BAT and ST terminals and tada, starter cranks right up. Determined everything is fine mechanically.

 

Put a new ignition switch on today (what a pain!) and still no go. I can still jump the BAT and ST terminals just as the ignition switch would do and the starter cranks right over. What gives?

 

Another weird thing is the anti theft light on the steering column blinks now. Never blinked before. Seems to be plugged into the ignition switch harness as well because it shuts off when I unplug the 7-p connector from the fuse box.

 

I seriously have no idea and am completely clueless. Not a starter, not the solenoid, nothing after the ignition switch in the circuit because i can get the starter to crank.

 

I am thinking maybe it is the entire key ignition lock thing. But all that does is turn the ignition switch and it should start. There is a plug coming out of the ignition lock called i believe the 8-p connector and I have no idea what it does other then provide the ring of green light around the key hole. I would really like to find out though because that seems pretty suspicious.

 

Any help would be great, thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am thinking maybe it is the entire key ignition lock thing.

 

That is very possible that the ignition switch went bad. If the alternator was bad, you should have seen the battery light on your dash come on and the battery should be drained every time you try and start. It certainly sounds like the problem is prior to any of that. My money is on the switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the alternator has nothing to do with the switch not being able to jump 2 wires.

 

it isn't impossible that the new switch is bad. why don't you put a test light to the switch, or get an ohm meter and see if there is continuity when you turn the ignition on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
the alternator has nothing to do with the switch not being able to jump 2 wires.

 

it isn't impossible that the new switch is bad. why don't you put a test light to the switch, or get an ohm meter and see if there is continuity when you turn the ignition on.

 

 

I HAD SIMILAR PROBLEM..... IT WAS THE 80 BIG FUSE ON THE FUSE BOX.... IT BURNT BECAUSE I PUT THE POLES ON THE BATTERY WRONG... THEY MELTED....NAH GOOD...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.