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hey guys, am actually beginning to get the money together to fix up either my civ or accord this summer, and found the zc and b20 (crv) engines to be much cheaper than even the first gen b16... can anyone help me out here? not sure what to do.... b20 block w/ b16 head? zc? or just straight b16a? all comments welcome! ~thanks all

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A B20 with a B18B tranny will beat a B16A anyday. Find an engine you like, figure what you want to do (SOHC, DOHC, VTEC, non-VTEC, 1.8, 1.6, etc.) research about it and do it.

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i had a dohc non-vtec zc motor in my crx and added a t3/t4 hybird turbo and fixed my internals up alot and ran 15 lbs of boost. at the track i could run 20 lbs of boost easily. so i would just find a dohc non-vtec zc and get it

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ok, i talked to a guy and he said he could do a first gen. b16a, t3/t4 hybrid turbo, full cat back exhaust, cai, front mount intercooler (pretty small to start), new speedo and tach, and a conversion from the cable auto to a five speed hydraulic tranny for ~3500. Will also come w/ boost controller, but not sure what all else... will need a new ecu and such obviously, but comes w/ engine. For now I'll have to leave the internals stock as I won't have enough money probably to get low comp. pistons and h-beam rods.... does this sound good to everyone?

~oh, the tranny is going to be from a b18b superstreet..... besides larger displacement, what advantages does the b20 have on the b16? Thanks again.

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oh, and i decided to fix up the civ, if it helps ya out somehow... it's an '89 lx (4 dr. if you didn't know already). should be original, I'll try to get some pics up for ya.

You might want to check out H-T as there are quite a few fixed up 4th gens over there. A stock B20 with B16 transmission will pull on any stock B series engine.

 

Granted the B20 route will cost more (about $1,400), the torque and gear ratios will make you a lot happier than the money you saved going the ZC route.

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what is the redline on the b20? and are you talking about the vtec b20? I kinda like the idea of have ~5000 rpms to play with on the b16, but probably won't have enough money this summer to fix up internals also, so, yea...... thanks again for all your help thusfar.

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-----------usable power-----usable torque

 

B16A--------7,600---------------5,400-------

 

B20B--------7,000---------------4,300-------

 

Shifting at the torque peak is actually better than shifting at the redline or power peak.

 

Redline and power peak = noise and a few more MPH. When you shift at the torque peak, it keeps the torque up versus high torque then loosing torque due to high RPM.

 

If that confused you, don't worry about it, I typed and probably didn't use the best wording.

 

You want the engine with the best torque and gearing. B20 wins torque, B16 wins gearing. Putting the B16 tranny on the B20 block will be the semi best of both worlds (best being B20/VTEC).

 

Side note: B18B camshafts in a B20 head will gross you around 6-10whp.

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the wording wasn't bad, I understand exactly what you're saying man... I'll have to check out what they are willing to do w/ the money I have. You're doing quite well at convincing me to go b20 though, w/out a doubt. It'll be about a month until I have around 1600 for the basic engine swap (outkast kustoms here in c sprgs), and I'll see what I can do. So, for a little recap:

~b20 vtec w/ b18b camshafts and tranny best, or

~b20 w/ b16 tranny second best.

and I'm assuming that the t3/t4 sounds good, yeah?

Thanks again superstreet

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the wording wasn't bad, I understand exactly what you're saying man... I'll have to check out what they are willing to do w/ the money I have. You're doing quite well at convincing me to go b20 though, w/out a doubt. It'll be about a month until I have around 1600 for the basic engine swap (outkast kustoms here in c sprgs), and I'll see what I can do. So, for a little recap:

~b20 vtec w/ b18b camshafts and tranny best, or

~b20 w/ b16 tranny second best.

and I'm assuming that the t3/t4 sounds good, yeah?

Thanks again superstreet

Read up and do the swap on your own. It's not as hard as it sounds.

 

For your price range, B20 w/ B16 tranny.

 

B20/VTEC is costly. A VTEC head will run around 600, then you need rods, crank (I wouldn't trust the B20 crank), etc.

 

If you turbo it, you will need to have it resleeved, which the sleeves alone cost around 800.

 

B20 longblock

B16A tranny (try to get a LSD tranny)

 

THEN once you have some money

B18B camshafts

B18C5 flywheel

 

OEM power.

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ok, just realized that my last post was a little confusing... i'll have about 1600 for just the base engine, then about another 2000 for the rest of it, including turbo, 5spd hydraulic tranny, pedals (civ. is an auto now), ic, exhaust, etc.

Ok, seriously though, if I just read up on the swap and such, do you think I could pull it off w/ a haynes manual or something? I really don't want to jack it up by tuning it wrong, as all of my knowledge is pretty trivial, and limited at that.

~so, for about 4000 total this summer, what all would you do w/ the b20 matched to a b16 tranny? and how much boost could it run on stock internals? Sorry for all the questions... first swap, and b20 isn't exactly an option I'd really considered =)

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ok, just realized that my last post was a little confusing... i'll have about 1600 for just the base engine, then about another 2000 for the rest of it, including turbo, 5spd hydraulic tranny, pedals (civ. is an auto now), ic, exhaust, etc.

Ok, seriously though, if I just read up on the swap and such, do you think I could pull it off w/ a haynes manual or something? I really don't want to jack it up by tuning it wrong, as all of my knowledge is pretty trivial, and limited at that.

~so, for about 4000 total this summer, what all would you do w/ the b20 matched to a b16 tranny? and how much boost could it run on stock internals? Sorry for all the questions... first swap, and b20 isn't exactly an option I'd really considered =)

Base engine is the complete engine. No, you can't pull it off with a Haynes manual. You just have to know what goes where. You won't have to do any tuning at all on it. You can't even really tune it unless you get a standalone. 10 psi max on stock internals. Just go N/A.

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