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'93 1.6L VTEC Crankshaft Pulley Removal Question


Dingle1911

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I am attempting to remove the crankshaft pulley on my '93 Del Sol. I bought the tool from Amazon.com to keep the pulley from moving. I just wanted to make sure that the threads are not reverse (ie to loosen the bolt I should turn it counterclockwise if I cam looking at it). I did a search, but could not find anything about the 1.6L engine.

 

Thanks for the help

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If I remember, the crank pulley on my DOHC vtec was threaded normally.

 

By the way, you don't need a special tool. Take the old timing belt, wrap it once around the pulley, belt teeth against crank teeth, then around a bolt (I think for the alternator) that sticks out right by it, then feed the belt back inbetween the pulley and the belt so that as you turn it, the belt tightens on itself until the pulley cant move. My friends and I have done this on several engines and it always works with a little trial and error. You have to think a little bit so that the belt tightens on itself the same direction you want to torque on.

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the tool is good, now you just have to make sure and use a large enough wrench. most 1/2 drive breakers will just bend, you will likely need a 3/4 in ratchet with a 3' pipe extension or a hefty air wrench

 

when i did mine i did the - take the starter off and wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel trick. not a highly recommended method cause you can break the trans housing, but it did work.

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I wish I had some air tools (they aren't in the budget yet). Now that I have the tool I can keep the pulley from turning. I broke another socket this morning while attempting to the bolt (I am less than impressed with craftsman sockets). At lunch I am going ot get a new one and this time I am going to get the six sided socket instead of the twelve.

 

After I broke another socket I started to doubt that it was threaded normally, so I posted here to see what people thought. It sounds like I just need a lot of force.

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i killed two 1/2 18" breaker bars and stripped a socket too

 

went and got a 3/4 ratchet from harbor freight for about $20 and with a HD grade impact socket and a 3" pipe on the end of the ratchet, I positioned it so it was sticking out the front of the car and just hung off of it and kind of bounced on it until it cracked free

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thats what i use , 3/4" drive ratchet with 4' alluminum bar for leverage. you should be using 12 point sockets at ALL , unless its a 12 point bolt like aftermarket stud kits or clutch and flywheel bolts. its normal thread , it will come. the tool is the way to go. when the pully is being held firmly with no play , ie. with the tool , it allows more torque to reach the bolt. you can buy toqrue multiplyers as well now , its like a ratchet for a ratchet.

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