Chubs Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Well after my tune my car was running good then all of the sudden VTEC has been acting up, the new engagement point is set at 5200 RPM instead of 5k but when my car hits VTEC it will sputter for a few seconds then continue to gain RPMs, oil is good, car JUST got tune on Hondata S300 OBD1 conversion and P28, my AEM UEGO says the air fuel ratios are good, thought it was a fuel cut so I replaced the pump with a walboro 255lb pump and she runs better now but still having the VTEC problem, the only thing I can think of is it the solenoid but if that was bad then wouldnt it just not engage at all.. Well im putting a new one on today so wish me luck.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 sounds like a tuning issue to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubs Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 I think it may be, would the fact that my car is OBD1 now and the VTEC solenoid on my car is made for OBD2 be an issue ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 id day its a fuel timing thing , specially if you have no engine light on steady. does it come one than go out when sputter occurs? could be a lean/rich code. whats the factory engagement point on H22 chubs? i personally wouldnt have changed it dude. could be the prolem. your low cam profile is either that inefficient that high of revs , or the high cam profile is too big for that low of revs , under the fuel/timing conditions its setup to run. you get what im sayin? lol. if it was the solenoid , vtec most likely wouldnt engage at all , or on and off , on and off , the sputter like a misfire or fuel not burning properly cant be the solenoid , but , i could be wrong chubs. i hope you get it figured out man. nothing worse than expectation , followed by dissapointment. youl get er though. you know what chubs , another thing i just thought of , was the valves adjusted within the last little bit chubs? your exhaust vaves being too tight can cause this prolem , have seen it. how does it idle? rough at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonkid Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 id day its a fuel timing thing , specially if you have no engine light on steady. does it come one than go out when sputter occurs? could be a lean/rich code. whats the factory engagement point on H22 chubs? i personally wouldnt have changed it dude. could be the prolem. your low cam profile is either that inefficient that high of revs , or the high cam profile is too big for that low of revs , under the fuel/timing conditions its setup to run. you get what im sayin? lol. if it was the solenoid , vtec most likely wouldnt engage at all , or on and off , on and off , the sputter like a misfire or fuel not burning properly cant be the solenoid , but , i could be wrong chubs. i hope you get it figured out man. nothing worse than expectation , followed by dissapointment. youl get er though. you know what chubs , another thing i just thought of , was the valves adjusted within the last little bit chubs? your exhaust vaves being too tight can cause this prolem , have seen it. how does it idle? rough at all? screen inside the spool valve is clogged... thats my guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 wouldnt cause the engine to sputter though dude. vtec being on or off is one thing , a sputter in the engine is another. like i said though i could be wrong , happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycarsux Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Bad ECU chip possibly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonkid Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 it happens on CR-V's all the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unpredictableacts Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 I am actually having this same problem it has its good days and bad days. Some days vtec will pull strong and others(most here recently) vtec will sputter about and not catch at all. My vtec is set at 5400 and i have had it at this the entire time I have owned the car. It had just started acting up since november(which honsetly to date had to be the worst month I have had my entire life). If you do discover the problem please let me know also I would hate to have to buy another siliniod but if that is what is takes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubs Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 Bad ECU chip possibly? My P28 isn't chipped. Cranny -To answer your questions my check engine light had come on before all of the ECU stuff because my Skunk2 IM deleted the EGR valve, but after the Hondata etc. the light never came back on. Went up to TPR after I had gotten it tuned once and I was having the problem so he plugged the computer in and we drove it around, he cant seem to find the reason but when he turned VTEC off completly it didn't occur so that told us it has to be something with VTEC, the factory engagement is 5200 and it is currently set at 5200. I have had my car for a year and the valves have never been adjusted, and to be honest I dont know if VTEC even engages what it does is when my car hits 5200RPM it will just stop, not stop completly but it will accelerate VERY slow then at about 6000RPM the car will continue to accelerate, I dont know if it ever engages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unpredictableacts Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 on my I can hear it engague and disenguage in a sputter, It just pasters the crap out of me more than anything. What does a bad siliniod sound like or how do you know if one is bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycarsux Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 on my I can hear it engague and disenguage in a sputter, It just pasters the crap out of me more than anything. What does a bad siliniod sound like or how do you know if one is bad? Quit hijacking. Good luck with replacing the solenoid, Chubs. Get back to us after with results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonkid Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Quit hijacking. Good luck with replacing the solenoid, Chubs. Get back to us after with results ya, good luck, let us know how it turns out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Cranny-To answer your questions my check engine light had come on before all of the ECU stuff because my Skunk2 IM deleted the EGR valve, but after the Hondata etc. the light never came back on. Went up to TPR after I had gotten it tuned once and I was having the problem so he plugged the computer in and we drove it around, he cant seem to find the reason but when he turned VTEC off completly it didn't occur so that told us it has to be something with VTEC, the factory engagement is 5200 and it is currently set at 5200. I have had my car for a year and the valves have never been adjusted, and to be honest I dont know if VTEC even engages what it does is when my car hits 5200RPM it will just stop, not stop completly but it will accelerate VERY slow then at about 6000RPM the car will continue to accelerate, I dont know if it ever engages. i assume you have at least an intake on it? you should hear it kick in dude. you should know its engaging. if your not sure it is , i would say its not. makes it even harder after its been to a tuner , theres so much they can turn on and off and play with. what i mean is stuff that would normally give you an engine light. which of course sucks for diagnoses. sounds like its not engaging at all. try like spoon said of course , all the normal fixes , clean the solenoid screen , easy to do. if you wanted to , hook a 12volt light up to the vtec solenoid wire and ground and mount it inside the car , give er and see if the light comes on at all while going through the revs , when vtec kicks in , light will come on. if it doesnt come on , its not kicking in. its got stage 3 cams in it which require a different lash than stock most likely. you bought the car with the cams in it , and its been acting like this since you bought the car as far as not knowing that vtec kicks in? i know you said it doesnt sputter with vtec disengaged. if i were you and you cant nothing electrical , try taking valve cover off and see if the middle or VTEC rocker arm for each cylinder moves up and down by hand with no load on that cylinder. if it doesnt , could be an internal problem. this is a good one though chubs , lol. good luck again dude. i hope you get it figured out. would piss me off too dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unpredictableacts Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Quit hijacking. Good luck with replacing the solenoid, Chubs. Get back to us after with results was not so much hijacking as just trying to see if it was similar to what I am experiencing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubs Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 Cranny you are confusing me so bad dude lol, The car was bone stock when I bought it, I have done everything to it, the car doens't have stage 3 cams anymore I sold them and bought Crower turbo cams but they arn't in. My car JUST started having the VTEC problem about a week ago, I dont know if it engages or not because you cant hear it or anything, this is exactly what it does, put my car in first then put it to the floor the car accelerated then when it gets to the engagement point noothing happens except the car jerks and then sputters and then finally continues to accelerate. Thanks for all the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 FIX YOUR PROFILE THAN , haha. youd know if it was engaging dude , it obviously isnt. its a noticeable difference. do you not remember what it sounds like? lol. i dont get why your not getting an engine light but. Went up to TPR after I had gotten it tuned once and I was having the problem so he plugged the computer in and we drove it around, he cant seem to find the reason but when he turned VTEC off completly it didn't occur so that told us it has to be something with VTEC, the factory engagement is 5200 and it is currently set at 5200. this is what leads me to beleve that the fuel map has a low spot or somin at the end of the low cam dutycycle. youve only had these problems since you had it tuned so. did you clean the solenoid screen yet? not trying to confuse you dude , just trying to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mycarsux Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 I think something got messed up in the tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubs Posted February 3, 2007 Author Share Posted February 3, 2007 Fixed, 2 wires in the harness connecting the P28 and the Hondata were split. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unpredictableacts Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Fixed, 2 wires in the harness connecting the P28 and the Hondata were split. as in dissconected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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