Xeryon

You posted this and not one pic works :(

You don't necessarily have to pull up the carpet to look, you just have to look under the seat.

Bolts and brackets that hold down the front corners of the seats will wick the moisture upward. Any car with significant water intrusion will have surface rust on, in and around the mounting flange. The flange just so happens to be on top of the carpet.

In addition to your comments on roof seals. The 93 and 94 model years especially have an endemic problem with water leaking regardless of maintenance performed on the seals. Brand new cars were known to have been leaking while still sitting on the dealer parking lot. If you have an opportunity to look you should check the rust status of the foot wells under the front carpet.

Ok, this was a cool thread and all but you have been here long enough not to pull such noobish things as reviving a thread that is over a year old since last post.

xeryon aka josh

*facepalm*

I is not a Josh.

Brian gets added to the good buyer list. No hassles on anything and paid immediately once we had confirmed a total sale and shipping price.

You should make your own thread covering this issue instead of attaching it to the end of a long dead information thread. You will get better responses.

In any case, your question was answered in the last one.

To get a legit key you need the title in your name with your state ID. That year of Integra did not have an electronic key and any Honda/Acura dealership will make you two free replacement keys if you ask.

As for your situation, since the title issue is not going to be resolved on Easter Sunday you need to call a tow truck and have the car hauled right out of the garage. Make sure you have the seller present, and a written and signed bill of sale. Make sure he also has the title in-hand with his name on it.

No matter what, in this type of situation, someone is getting screwed somewhere. If the price was too good to be true then that car is stolen or the seller is trying to steal your money.

Some newer pictures from my much nicer new camera. 3 out of the 4 of my current vehicles:

Low and mean, and 0 rubbing now. She is in full race setup currently. Only thing left to do is get my autox alignment and I am ready for competition.

The cheap jeep. Working 4wd for $1500. Needed it to tug the boat in and out. The ram doesn't like rear wheels in the water. >_<

Our newest arrival: The 48mpg TDI. Torquey little thing. Is a blast to drive on the highway.

Strange, I checked as well and not one link still works.

The MS Paint tails aren't the greatest but since he has the chrome diamond headlights I would say the 70/30 red and clear tails match best. Or replace the headlights with some smoke or black housing one pieces aka pearce's and then do the smoked tails to match.

I love my little rice burner. I see form the pictures that a: my cell cam sucks, b: my driver rear needs to come up a little further to balance out.

I raised the suspension a little all around and balanced the heights last night. Put the painted 14's on it. The car is much more responsive torque-wise and with the slightly smaller wheels and 1/2 raised drive height I have no rubbing. Other then a night of corner weighting I am ready for test and tune night in a couple weeks for auto-x

Crummy cell phone pic. Car is going under the knife tonight and thought I would grab a before pic. Wheels that are on it are already sold to Brian as soon as I get them off the car.

Drove it a little Sunday and commuted Monday, 300 miles on this tank and still a little over the 1/2 mark.

For future reference the Diesel at Meijer stations sucks.

Original salvage auction images. Believe it or not this is what totaled an 06 vehicle. Golf's use a torsion bar system. Guy must have clipped a curb and bent it. The rear end is the same for most small veedubs. Car was fixed from a junkyard take off for a couple hundred.

Not a great picture but I just bought this yesterday in NC.

06 TDI

My $1000 baby the day I drove it home from the salvage yard.

You like that parking garage don't you?

When new carpet was going in...

I don't remember. Only half the interior is back in anyway. Dyed all my seats and trim black and was slowly reassembling it all.

This is why, the only pre-gut interior pic I have.

Here is the actual craigslist ad pic for the car.

^ That's correct. Camera angle was low enough to see under the door card.

Car wasn't stolen, sorta. Previous owner had so many unpaid parking tickets that the city of Dayton had the car impounded. Guy never paid his tickets so he never got his car back. The 3rd party impound lot never closed the window or the sunroof when they had it. It sat on the lot with the two windows open for 2 years. Someone had stolen the radio out of it on the lot and the tow truck had in initially ripped the front bumper off. But the bumper wasn't damaged.

I don't really like this picture or the overall looks of the car in it. Makes the car look like it's 4-wheelin, but this was the look for the last few months until I garaged it two months ago while I work on the suspension.

Front bumper looks odd because it is different then the more popular (for tuning) coupe and hatch bumper. For comparison here is a coupe front end.

And a new sig will come shortly. I am finishing my basement remodel and once that's done I'll finish with the suspension install. Mad pics when that is finished.

The commuter beater. Just washed it up a little so it's presentable again.

Sorry, I am no photographer. Took these a few hours ago after suspension install.n Front was a little too low. Raised it up a half already to balance it better with the rear.

F&F Type 1 Coilovers

Carbing Underbody Frame Braces - front and rear.

Blox Lower Control Arms

Skunk2 Upper control arms - front and rear

Energy Suspension Bushings - Not all of them, but a lot were replaced.

Running mismatched 195/50/15's, Next week I'm temporarily putting the blades on this car as the tires are shot. In the spring it will get some LS meshes powered black or gunmetal (hopefully) with 195/55/15's

While in there I did the inner and outer tie rods on both sides and a pair of new axles to boot.

To keep the thread alive: This will be my car when my buddy sells in the next year or two. Top down blazing through the Palo Alto Mountains in this thing was a blast.

No, this is a stock Sol. Fourwheeling on 13's straight from flooriduh. Day we bought her.

pfft, and they are not rotas.

I was referring to WBS anyway. You will need to tell me how you fixed your headlights. The 00 hatch has the clouded ones too.

And I would like to know why there are soooooooo many pics of a completely stock civic on here?

The carbing frame braces attach to the frame itself and not to the suspension at all. So sway bars should bolt right in as normal. The only thing you have to watch for is they do stick down just a hair lower then the rest of the underbelly so you have to be careful of hitting things in the road.

Strut tower bars, for the money, really don't do very much in a Sol, coupe or sedan. On a hatch they have much more function.

As for sway bars, from my readings (been spending a lot of time reading about professional Honda racers and their cars). They can actually inhibit desirable flex of the chassis when cornering. They can make your car understeer something fierce. Apparently the trick is that they loosen the front sway bars so that they will allow some flex and then tighten down the rear sway bar. Apparently this helps immensely with allowing the rear end to push outward more in corning. Giving you a little more oversteer and allowing the front wheel drive car to corner better. The other recommended method was to skip them completely and put the money elsewhere.

Energy Suspension <--- good stuff there. Nice prices and very fast shipping. Done 4 transactions with them in the last year and every one was perfect.

I will let you know on the carbing. I bartered with the guys at Robear for $169 to my door for both.

As for alignments: You don't need a shop to adjust your camber. With the front A-arms and the rear upper control arms and a level, or a plumbline, and an hour of your day is all you need.

Not finished installing yet, but this is what I have for a pile of parts I have been working over the last two months when I have time:

F2 coilovers

Skunk2 front and rear camber sets (ended up going with this as the stock camber at stock height on my sedan was bad enough it's eating tires and I had it checked - nothing is wrong )

Blox rear LCAs

Carbing front and rear underbody frame braces

Energy Suspension master kit.

Total cash that will have been spent is about $1100

Still need to pick up some new rubber, but that probably will wait until next spring/summer.

Anyone have any additional suggestions toward this?

snag a couple updated pics will ya?

sounds good to me. for function the car should never see more then a 2" drop anyway. I have to maintain reasonable clearance for my gravel driveway and back-country roads. i did the rears for a similar reason: all the bushings were shot and i had not learned of energy suspension master kits yet. it was actually a couple bucks cheaper to buy a new lca set then to buy the oem bushings. and fix the old.

BTW, via IM discussion robear just coughed up a set of the Type II F2 Autolife coilovers (the ones nancy quoted previously) for $760 to my door. I accepted.

Exactly, you usually dont even need a camber kit. Just get an alignment after you drop it, you should be good.

Would you suggest this for both front and rear? Any thoughts one front lower control arms? They seemed to me to be a bit excessive for my needs. Thought I would ask what you guys thought before I dismissed them completely.

going to revive this because it is a rather nice topic to keep alive.

The following is what I have been looking at. My goal is to have a street setup that I will be driving daily, but I want enough that I can auto-x when I feel like it. I am not going for full race, just better performance. Not sure if the camber kit money would be better spent elsewhere. Should I choose a cheaper camber setup since it is not a full race application? I am/will be driving this car 20k+ a year, so camber must be set correctly as I don't want to blow through tires so being able to align the camber correctly is a must.

I plan on doing more with sway bars and braces later. So now I am just focusing on failing oem part replacement. I just installed rear LCA's. Are the Omni front LCA's something I should really be looking into?

I plan on rolling with a 1-2" drop max. Anything more and I will lose driveability on my country roads in the winter.

think your bushings should move up a notch or two in priority. i hate listening to peoples squeeky-ass dropped civics when i am sitting at a stop light. The full energy suspension kit I found was around $130 for one of every replaceable suspension bushing.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/prodd...03&cat=1025

full energy suspension master kit for 92-95 civic and 92-97 del sol, $128.37 and free shipping

Thank you kindly

You had mentioned such company previously and I had failed to follow up with it. My bad! Interesting place. They have such a crummy website but their prices on some items, especially suspension parts, are highly competitive even with eBay pricing.

Just bought the LCAs, and I am using your list and eh6's list of parts above as a blueprints for my suspension rebuild that is in-process. For those in the know it would complete the how-to/what-to part of this if you can slap estimated pricing on this so newbies know what they would be in for on a build like this.