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intermittent starting issue. (no spark)


ghetto-rocket

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Hi all_

just found the forum!!

i am having a few issues with my 88 crx hf.

sometimes when i go to start the car it will just turn over.. it turns over with no problems, just wont start.. then i will let it sit for awhile come back and it will start right up and run no problem.. sometimes it takes 5 minutes. sometimes i have to walk away for a couple hours.. then it will start..

that is my main problem, i suspect it is the distributor. is the coil internal to the distributor??? can i just replace the cap, or does the whole thing need to be replaced..

i am lacking a multimeter so any troubleshooting advice to try to narrow this down would be helpful.... the only other issues with the car is- at idle it likes to rev up and down a bit between 1000-700 rpm it will just kinda go up and down slowly between the two.. and also my brake light is always on.. i know these last two are most likely not related to the starting problem, but figured i would throw them out there anyways..

thanks for any help and info...

 

this starting problem occurred rarely but is now becoming more prevalent..

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Hi all_

just found the forum!!

i am having a few issues with my 88 crx hf.

sometimes when i go to start the car it will just turn over.. it turns over with no problems, just wont start.. then i will let it sit for awhile come back and it will start right up and run no problem.. sometimes it takes 5 minutes. sometimes i have to walk away for a couple hours.. then it will start..

that is my main problem, i suspect it is the distributor. is the coil internal to the distributor??? can i just replace the cap, or does the whole thing need to be replaced..

i am lacking a multimeter so any troubleshooting advice to try to narrow this down would be helpful.... the only other issues with the car is- at idle it likes to rev up and down a bit between 1000-700 rpm it will just kinda go up and down slowly between the two.. and also my brake light is always on.. i know these last two are most likely not related to the starting problem, but figured i would throw them out there anyways..

thanks for any help and info...

 

this starting problem occurred rarely but is now becoming more prevalent..

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

ONE OF THE CRX-DX/HF COMMON PROBLEMS IS THE REALAY (Might wanna check that out)

 

Problems starting the car, usually after a short run (when the interior is warm), though in bad cases the car may fail to start at any time. A classic time for the problem to occur is at the petrol station, or if you park for a minute to get something from a shop. If the car is parked for a long period, the interior usually has cooled enough for the joint to make contact again, and you won't notice a problem. As the cabin temperature is a major feature of this problem, it might appear worse on cold or rainy days when you have the heater running to clear the windows etc. Extremely cold temperatures can also cause the problem to be more apparent.

 

The engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the PGM-Fi indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.

 

The Cause

 

The problem is caused by dry joints in the PGM-FI main relay. This relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. Without power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere!

 

Below is a diagram of the PGM-FI system fitted to Honda's first fuel injected engine as fitted to the MK1 CRX. PGM-FI has constantly evolved over the years but the function of the relay is the same in all Honda cars - to supply power to the fuel pump, and fuel-injection components.

On recent cars such as the 2001 Civic the current draw by the main relay is monitored by the ECU, this way the ECU can tell if the main relay is faulty.

 

Dry joints are caused by vibration and changes in temperature cracking the solder round a joint which has not flowed correctly. They have a characteristic look, and sometimes are very hard to spot, even to a trained eye.

Remember it is not the actual relay itself that is at fault, just the soldering. To repair the fault all we need to do is remove the old solder and re-apply fresh.

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