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James Matteu

5th Gen Accord USDM: Security System w/Options (from 1G CR-V)

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It's so close I can taste it!

 

Tracking number......180500830454882.................Reference......MATTEU

Ship date..................Jul 16, 2008..........................Destination...JACKSONVILLE, FL

Estimated delivery....Jul 21, 2008..........................Service type..Ground-Domestic

.............................................................................Weight..........2.5 lbs.

 

Status.....................On FedEx vehicle for delivery

 

Date/Time_____________Activity____________________________Location___________Details________________________

Jul 19, 2008.......4:43 AM On FedEx vehicle for delivery..............JACKSONVILLE, FL.........Scheduled for delivery next business day

Jul 18, 2008......11:05PM At local FedEx facility.........................JACKSONVILLE, FL

..........................6:04PM Departed FedEx location.....................ELLENWOOD, GA

..........................3:12PM Arrived at FedEx location.....................ELLENWOOD, GA

Jul 17, 2008......12:28PM Departed FedEx location.....................SYRACUSE, NY

..........................1:56AM Arrived at FedEx location.....................SYRACUSE, NY

Jul 16, 2008......10:04PM Left FedEx origin facility.......................BUFFALO, NY

..........................6:38PM Arrived at FedEx location.....................BUFFALO, NY

.........................4:05 PM Picked up...........................................BUFFALO, NY

..........................9:03AM Package data transmitted to FedEx

Edited by James Matteu

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Yikes! No wires! I didn't notice that the 2001 CR-V already has the Security Sub-Harness as part of the Main Harness!

 

So I took about 20 minutes finding alternate connections in the Accord. I have to go to the salvage yard after my next payday, and obtain from another 1996-97 Accord:

 

20-pin Green Connector off the Gauge Cluster

two 6-pin relay connections

two 4-pin relay connections

 

Then I have to get hoppin on fabricating my Security Harness.

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I have run into some issues in fabricating an OEM security harness:

 

20-pin grey:

For some reason, I could not find the grey 20-pin connector needed on the right side of the steering wheel. I thought I could use the green 20-pin connector from the left side of the dash, but under closer inspection I realized that the grey 20-pin connector has a 12 gauge BLU/RED wire that is pined with the large silver Honda pin. I have do not have the patience to track down an alternative solution to this BLU/RED issue, and holding this project back over one wire did not seem reasonable.

 

7-pin brown:

This connector is unique to the fuse box found in the 5G Accord and short of finding another security harness on another Honda with same fuse box, there is no way to fabricate this connection.

 

14-pin grey:

I have decided that the trouble involved in tracking down this connector outweighs the benefit of having it.

 

These connections are not an issue for me, but I am disappointed to admit that what I am making isn't an exact duplicate of the OEM security harness.

 

I think the best thing to do at this point is to provide a pinout for the Control Unit, show what I did to fabricate a pseudo OEM security harness, and then allow people to decide on the details of how to install the harness.

 

I think a wiring diagram showing how the Control Unit should be connected would really help others to use the CR-V parts.

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I can’t believe I have run through an entire roll of electrical tape in two months. Phew, I have been busy. I have to pick some up on my way home.

 

I have pretty much finished the harness. Given the aforementioned connection issues, I have only 6 wires to solder when I put this into the car. That’s not too bad considering there are 20 wires coming from the security unit (22 for the Honda’s with electric locking mechanisms on the trunk).

 

I noted that the CR-V’s OEM Honda trunk release mechanism is run on 20 amps. I have yet to buy an electronic trunk release, so decided not to connect the power source to the relay just yet. I may or may not need 12V at 20 amps, but that doesn’t stop me from installing the rest of the system.

 

Same goes for the Hood Switch. I am installing the Hood Switch this weekend, but that doesn’t stop me from installing the rest of the system this evening.

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Nice.

 

Pics or ban!

 

And keep up the good work James! Even if I'm not responding, I am still reading. :thumbsup:

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...Even if I'm not responding, I am still reading.:thumbsup:

I know, 1700+ views!

 

My dash swap DIY thread past 2000 views the other day!

 

I will take some pics tonight after I do a test fit with the door panel off.

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I tried to use the CR-V relay to run the Door Lock Control Unit and blew through three 20 amp fuses 'till I accepted that it was the way I was using the relay.

 

So I removed the Mitsuba 725 relay :sad: , so no keyless entry for now. I need a Honda double pole relay, one that will unlock the driver's door with a little voltage and unlock all the doors with more voltage.

 

I have another problem, I'm not getting voltage to the Security Starter Cut Relay and the Security System was acting strange when it first powered up.

 

As far as the Starter Cut Relay goes: I thought it was another fuse somewhere, but was able to disconnect the Security Starter Cut Relay and use a jumper wire to bypass the Security Unit to start the car :mad: . I will figure this out later.

 

The other thing was that when I first tried to disarm the system, the parking lights flashed and the gauge cluster "P" started to flash (transmission code?). When I bypassed the Security Starter Cut Relay, this problem when away, but I can see it coming back when I get the door fixed and power the Security Unit back up.

 

Tomorrow, I'm going to buy the correct relay on my lunch (and a box of 20A fuses) and then when I get home I'm going to see what I can figure out about this problem.

 

The only relay that I was able to confirm as being part of the OEM Accord Security Optional Harness was the RC-2201, which by no coincidence hasn't given me any trouble.

Edited by James Matteu

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The other thing was that when I first tried to disarm the system, the parking lights flashed and the gauge cluster "P" started to flash (transmission code?). When I bypassed the Security Starter Cut Relay, this problem when away, but I can see it coming back when I get the door fixed and power the Security Unit back up.

This morning I realized what this is, I was working on the car at around 12 midnight and didn't want to upset my neighbors, so I switched the Security Control Unit from Horn to Siren (and I have no Siren hooked up). This must have been the alarm going off. I have to figure out why it was doing this.

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I tried to use the CR-V relay to run the Door Lock Control Unit and blew through three 20 amp fuses 'till I accepted that it was the way I was using the relay.

I reviewed the CR-V wiring diagram and realized that I had the relay hooked up really wrong. I feel stupid for thinking the CR-V relay could supplant the Accord relay and be wired in the same way an Accord relay is. So I divided the lock/unlock input and wired them to make a closed circuit when the relay is in it's normally closed position.

 

I got the Fuse #38 to stop blowing, but now I can only unlock the doors, I cannot lock them and the relay does not function as it should.

 

I interupted the connection to the key hole in the door switch. The driver's side door should open by pressing unlock, then by holding down unlock, the rest of the doors should open. When I press the unlock button (not holding it down), all the doors unlock, this should not be happening.

 

I rechecked the switch on the door, I the doors function properly, so the Control Unit in the door is functional.

 

I'm just happy the fuse doesn't blow.

 

I will figure this out, but if anyone can help me get there faster, the help is appreciated.

Edited by James Matteu

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I'm such a noob, the doors wouldn't lock 'cause the trunk was still open. The system is designed to not arm if any of the doors or trunk are open.

 

So I get put my door back together today. Yipee!

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Well, it's all done.

 

The major source of problems came from not knowing how to deal with the relays that came with the CR-V Attachment Kit given the CR-V relays are different than the Accord relays in their respective Attachment Kits.

 

The last issue that I resolved a few minutes ago was the Door Switch Input and Ceiling Light Control, I had them reversed. I just switched the pins on the 22-pin GRN connection to the Security Control Unit and now everything functions as it should.

 

I have decided to write the instructions in the first post based on what I have learned rather than documenting what I have done. For instance, I only grabed connections for the Door Harness, but in hine sight it would have been easier to pull the entire upper door harness from another Accord to simply make changes to it and swap it out for the harness in my car.

 

I will work on the write-up later, I'm exhausted and glad this is finished. Now if I can only figure out how to add an immobilizer daughter board to my ECU mother board.

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Sweet dude.

Glad it was something so simple.

 

Lookin forward to seeing a full write-up from you when you get the time. (WITH PICS!! :thumbsup: )

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Man great job.... U have3 a lot of patience to resolve all the work of something that a lot of these cats cant get to understand about Hondas' Modularity... its a great thing mybwoy.... subscribed definately!!

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Starting & Shutting Car Off
• Turn on the car: Put your foot on the break and press the start/stop button

• Turn off the car: Simply press the start/stop and the car will shut off. Notepad++

• Turn accessory mode on: Without your foot on the break press and release the start/stop button twice. Malwarebytes

Valet Key
Use the quick release tab to take the traditional key out. Hand the key fob to the valet driver and keep the traditional key. In the glove box hit the off button on the trunk symbol and this will cut the power to the trunk. 
FileZilla Then lock the trunk release lever on the drivers side floor with traditional key.

Edited by jokilovato20

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