Jayeffel

Sorry OBD Fusion is one, Car Scanner May be the same company. I forgot one major part! The OBD Fusion will as well last there other other one, uses a plug in device you keep in the code reader port. You can monitor the engine as it runs if you know what you are looking at- I merely checking the speed and current estimated fuel usage. To merely read a reset the codes a plug in meter will suffice, make sure it works with your vehicle. The package it comes in (Wally World, auto parts, online)should let you know which.

You can get a scan tool - or a phone app such as ODD Fusion (free) or CarScanner ( they don not tell you it costs) and check the codes and even erase the codes. Once erased they may disappear which indicates the problem may now not exits, or come back which would incite a sensor detects something wrong. The tool plugs into the meter at the dash, the apps connect via Bluetooth. I have seen where several people merely replace the sensor, it may be be bad, but usually points to something between the sensor and what it is to warn you of. For instance something about the exhaust being bad would be before the sensor, not after it.

On my 2002 Honda CRV I am having problems. First, the button on the drivers door near the inside door opener that I think is to lock and unlock all doors does not work for any door. Second, the drivers door lock/unlock button does not work. Third, the key when attempting to unlock the divers door sometime works, some times not. now and then it gets stuck. I checked all fuses and they look good and show continuity of current. I looked inside the drivers door panel and saw no connector loose. I have not yet taken the whole panel off to see if anything obvious is wrong. Would I be expecting the driver's door actuator to be bad, but would that cause all other doors to not lock/unlock? I probably need a new door lock mechanism for the driver's door. Would a connection go bad? If the weather cooperates enough I need to check to be sure all linkages are in place.

It seems I get to answer my own questions! I looked at the way the blade was situated and all looked like it was correct. I somehow got a number for a Rain-X per wiper blade and checked two all known auto parts stores who did not have that. Even the book for Rain-x blades does not show the blade to use for a rear window. So I checked Wally World and despite my local store not having any the one I was at did have one I finally located. I had a time getting the old one off, not Rain=x and I do not think the proper one anyway. The blade was torn. I finally got the new blade on and it does seem to travel across the window further than the old one. Maye it nears friction holding it up, but at the same spot all the time? Now to try to fix a few other problems.

The rear wiper blade does not see e adjusted to clear the main part of there rear window. I stops motion to the left a little post midway the window, there is a significant amount of the window not touched or cleared The blade when off does rest against a stop behind the spare tire, the blade when at rest is in a spot marked behind where the blade is, I do not know if there was something under the blade before but now there is a rectangular area surrounding it. I am wondering if the base can be adjusted for travel so it clears the entire window where the defrost grid shows. If I knew how I would attach a picture of what it looks like. By the appearance it is where it belongs, but by its operation does not seem to travel correctly.

I was wrong! it is a yellow connector with a green and blue wire, apparently by reading other websites posts (not this forum) that is the connector I need to clear the SRS warning light, just need to read the procedure again - that connection is only for that purpose, it does not have pins as other connection, it merely sits in a holding spot until needed. Basically it need to get a paperclip or pieces of wire that fit the holes and short out the connection using a specified procedure-- that is what I need to learn. I just bought his car recently and am discovering a few problems, none major at present. 1) STS warning light 2) Engine codes that indicate the catalytic converter system efficiency is low 3) the drivers side front door lock control for other doors does not work, 4) rear defroster does not work - a previous owner scraped off window tint off with a razor blade and not only apparently cut some of the circuit wires but scratched the glass pretty bad. I checked very quickly about continuity from one terminal on the rear view window to the other and rich, and did not get power at the terminals when ignition with on to accessory. All fuses for all the above look good, I know they can look good and be bad though.

2002 Honda CRV: The SRS warning light is on all the time, I found a way to silence it but have not done that yet. What I do need help with is identifying a wire and plug loose inside the fuse panel next to the steering wheel. The connector is red I think, the two wires are yellow. Since the SRS light is on I would at first surmise the plug is to be connected to a SRS spot on the fuse panel. but I do not know which spot. Kind of hate to plug it into one and see what happens. Be nice to have a wiring diagram - do not have a Chliton or Hynes book for that vehicle, owned in maybe two weeks now.

Do they just show up and then turn off, or do they stay lit? Of they disappear quickly I would say there is a self test and they passed. There are testers you can get to tread the codes yourself.

taken care of, was able to get the mouth assembly itself. Thanks

I think I can get around all the big problem; all I really need is the part of the reservoir filler tube that the blue cap fits unto, and I think I found a source for it.

I recently obtained this 2002 CTC and one of the needed items is part of the windshield washer reservoir. The cap dismissing and part of the top part of the filling tube is broken, but only around where the cap should be. It looks like there is a small section that could be removed and replaced. This piece is only a few inches long and looks like it may be replaceable, but I am not sure. It looks like a real bother to take enough stuff off the vehicle to replace the whole thing. And ideas? .