OSOLMIO

Dude thats like 10% of them!

Costs me like $12.00 a gallon and it makes 2 gallons 50\50 with water. If you give them your contact info. they will have a rep in your area get ahold of you.

 

Its the top one Red Devil

 

Best stuff you can buy!

I managed to order it from American Chemical and Equipment Company with no apparent problem. At least it processed my order unlike the other sites:

http://www.americanchemical.net/c81/-RED-DEVIL-DEGREASER-1-Gallon-p374.html

Well $40.00 is more than I would even want to pay, because I am a cheap bastard! However I figure $40.00 is ok, and really if you broke it down I would use say $3 dollars at carwash, and say $1.50 if that in chemical!

Well friend that is not how to get rich, but it is great you are not out to screw customers. I spent enough time in the corporate world as a cost analyst to see what customers who pay for your services would most likely be charged the cost of a gallon of Red Devil with each cleaning. The labor cost at $80.00 an hour at the car wash which these days is the low car shop standard hourly charge for service, then all other residual costs like electricity to operate your business, phone calls, I don't have to tell you, even rags and replacing rags as well as washing them is all calculated in the cost. So you may be cheap but there are those willing to pay more than you charge for your services. I would hazard a guess that a local auto retailer would be more than happy to pay you your prices to detail the trade ins they receive.

I have gotten the straight chemical on my hands and it burns a little but not that badly. It is corrosive but only a little. Also I rinse engine compartment with spotfree rinse at carwash every time I wash car. Most of what collects in fender jams and around core support is soap that never gets rinsed off, or hard water. So if you rinse around edges of engine compartment it will stay nice for long time. I charge $40.00 per engine compartment when I do them for people and it takes like 30 min to do them!

It may be worth the drive to Boise. I would admit my stupidity to reveal that I paid a pro detail shop the going rate here of $200.00 to do what you do for $40.00. We have real hard water in Vancouver so maybe I will hook up a long hose to the compressor to get it as dry as I can get it. It only takes one time to leave a permanent spot. You should see the cars at the car dealers who hire illegals to wash their cars but not dry them off..they are ruined.

No harm to anything in engine compartment what so ever. No I protect nothing, and in the massive amounts of engines I have cleaned (was detailing as well) Never had a issue, besides the occasional wet distributor cap. If you get it wet remove with 8 MM socket,, and lightly spray WD-40 in cap to dissipate the water. As far as elbow grease I am a lazy MOFO so very little! Only place I use a brush is on fender jams, and underside of hood. If your engine is real bad I suggest doing it the first time real heavy let set maybe wash the rest of car then hit engine, then do a second time.

Yeh, I read that in the early post about it not harming paint, etc. but I could not believe my eyes. I thought maybe you photoshopped the dirt off. I would eat off your engine compartment or have surgery on it, it is so clean. I can't wait to get back home and try it. I love a clean engine compartment! Gee you must not drive around much in Idee Ho for it to stay that clean. How do you get the sagebrush rolling across I-84 out from under the fender wells, set it on fire?

To be honest ive never bagged or taped my dizzy, relays, batt terminal, and have only had a problem once (the seal on my dizzy went bad), so i popped off the cap, dried it out, put it back on, and I was good to go. I clean my engine bay about once every other month (when i detail the rest of my car) so ive done it 6 or so times, and my prievious 2 hondas ive done the same, so all in all, probably 50 times ive cleaned my bay without taping anything, and had 1 problem (which i explained earlier)

Did you dry it out with an air compressor or did you use some electrical component aerosol spray moisture displacement? Not WD-40 because to me it is too oily.

Dude thats like 10% of them!

Costs me like $12.00 a gallon and it makes 2 gallons 50\50 with water. If you give them your contact info. they will have a rep in your area get ahold of you.

 

Its the top one Red Devil

 

Best stuff you can buy!

I see there is a hazardous material surcharge, do you recommend a respirator and rubber chemical resistant gloves when using the stuff? Also, in your before and after photos, how much elbow grease did it take to get it that clean? I guess I should start from the beginning. What items under the hood did you have to protect with plastic wrap, alumimum foil or a Walmart bag and duct tape? I assume it took more than spraying on a dilution of Red Devil and rinsing it off. I used to use a toilet bowl cleaning tool, that had a string mop like end on my show Carmaro but I was dealing with semi-gloss black not body color paint and huge engine bay. Your engine compartment looks like it has been carnuba'd!

Also, since the stuff seems to be real potent what kind of items should it not come in contact with, like soft plastic and rubber parts, will it dissolve anything in the engine compartment?

Does it have to be a Wal-Mart bag for best results, or will a Target back give the same results?

 

Thanks for contributing the write-up

I know this has been around a long, long time but please detail what areas to duct tape around th edistributor. I used the plastic bag method and then had to have my car towed to the local shop to work on the distributor and get it died out as it did manage to get wet and the car would not start. Also are there special relays or ALL relays should be avoided? Instead of having to be careful about the battery terminals would you recommend we remove the battery and cover the battery lead clamps?