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Low&Slow

A/C HELP!!! URGENT.

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Alright, so I have a 2003 Honda Accord v6 EX. I recently had been told me evaporator core has been leaking out the fluid. Now my AC just blows hot.  So I wanted to swap it out and I ordered the proper part off of RockAuto.com. 
Note: The compressor, drier/accumulator, and condenser are all new. 
They have already been swapped out, filled. 

Now my question is, is it possible that the pag oil leaked from the evap core from all of the other main parts as well? I am planning on changing it but I am a noob when it comes to AC work. I looked online and the correct amount is 5.50 ounces of PAG OIL. Freeon is 19. 
Yes I bought the expansion valve too. 

Note: Yes I have thought about paying a professional, but whats the point of paying a professional when you can DIY? You won't learn jack sh*t if you pay someone else to do your dirty work, right? Also, I live in the desert where its dry and hot all day long. 123F to be exact. 

Say I drain the oil via the valve stem from the low pressure side before changing any parts, should I refill all of the 5.50 ounces in the evap or would I have to put PAG oil in every main part? I was told I only have to put one ounce in and that I would be fine, but I don't trust this dudes work since he told me he changed my expansion valve when he changed the other parts i.e. the compressor and condenser. 

Any help is appreciated. I tried to make this as short as possible. 

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I would only add back what is lost if you recover 35cc's of oil then add back 35cc's into the system. Also highly recommend while system is open to change O-rings at the compressor (if you haven't already) as this is a very common location for leaks. Also when pressure is below 265 kPa (38 PSI) due to loss of refrigerant OR above 1667 kPa (242 PSI)  due to blockage your dual pressure switch will open the circuit to the A/C control unit to protect the compressor.

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How would I know what is lost? Say I drain the ac system out of the valve stem by unscrewing or pressing it to let out whatever is left? I believe its marking at 0 right now with a standard Walmart gauge reader that comes with r134a. I would not be touching the compressor or the lines to change the evap core. to my understanding it just needs to be unbolted from the expansion valve on the firewall after it is completely empty. 

 

Yes I am going to change the o rings of course. that would be dumb of me to not. Also, thank you so much for responding. 

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Normally I measure the amount of oil that comes out of the compressor and subtract it from the total fluid capacity of the system as a whole. Since you're not removing your compressor I wouldn't worry about it. In your case just refill the refrigerant after you replace the O-rings. I just did the same thing on my Acura and I had condensation on the outside of the windows in like 4 minutes.

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Are you re-using your old expansion valve? If so I'd also replace the foam tape around the capillary tube just for good measure. I'll try to check in daily if I can.

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I am using a new expansion valve, I read some service manuals and it seems like I just have to unplug the bolt from the low and high pressure that connects to the firewall into the expansion valve which connects to the evap core. SO I guess these are my steps.

1. start removing the glove box and its other parts, once all the sensors and everything is unplugged, take off the blower motor chassis with the fan inside of it.
2. start unplugging my transistor sensor and other sensors on the evap chassis. 
3. unscrew the 8-9 bolts on the evap chassis. 
4. unscrew the bolt from the outside on the lines. 
5. pull out the cover to the evap chassis, then pull out the evap and expansion valve. replace rings on the lines, and on the evap core itself. 

yes I am going to use some new insulation on the new expansion valve. not too sure what kind of padding or foam I should use or what kind of glue or adhesive. 

6. I am going to refill the evap with 45ml pag oil which is equal to 1.5 ounces of pag oil. 

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