sol 16 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 ok so i have a 350 watt amp on 2 10s i want to go up to a 600 watt amp but i have this tiny battery and i was wondering if it is as strong as a reg. battery and if so what would you suggest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmgogo Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 ok so i have a 350 watt amp on 2 10s i want to go up to a 600 watt amp but i have this tiny battery and i was wondering if it is as strong as a reg. battery and if so what would you suggest what are the ratings on the battery, stock alt?, 600rms or peak, need MOAR info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevotron5000 Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Peak wattage is almost a meaningless number. Need to know RMS wattage to determine how much of a draw an amp will have on a system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sol 16 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 well it a stock alt and the Battery CA @ 32 Degrees F : 590 Battery CCA @ 0 Degrees F : 475 and does the dimming of the light mess up your car in anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevotron5000 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 well it a stock alt and the Battery CA @ 32 Degrees F : 590 Battery CCA @ 0 Degrees F : 475 and does the dimming of the light mess up your car in anyway Is your amp 350watts RMS or peak? And depending on how much your lights are dimming it may decrease the life of your alternator/battery since it can't keep up with the demands of your audio system on top of its normal duties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sol 16 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 peak and my lights dont dim with my current 350 watt amp and thanks i thought that it ran off the battery and the car recharged it slowly like 1 volt a hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevotron5000 Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 It doesn't as far as I know... the battery gets recharged straight away anyway, so long as u don't have the stereo blasting without the engine on, can't see it doing much. It gets recharged straight away if there isn't some monster amp sucking the life out of the alternator to the point where it can't keep up, at which point you are shortening the life of your alt. while slowly killing your battery since it keeps getting depleted without being charged up again. A 350watt peak amp (again, a near meaningless number, RMS is much more accurate) is a very light load. I run at 550 watt RMS and it only affects my RPMS and lights at idle, full tilt, on a very bass heavy song. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sol 16 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 It gets recharged straight away if there isn't some monster amp sucking the life out of the alternator to the point where it can't keep up, at which point you are shortening the life of your alt. while slowly killing your battery since it keeps getting depleted without being charged up again. A 350watt peak amp (again, a near meaningless number, RMS is much more accurate) is a very light load. I run at 550 watt RMS and it only affects my RPMS and lights at idle, full tilt, on a very bass heavy song. thanks i have a del sol and my wing rattles more than the bass but it looks good on the car is there a way to fix this if you know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmgogo Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 im running a 755w rms set up, and it will dim the dash lights quite a bit at full load, however that should be remedied when I do the big 3, also mind you im running the alt from a b16 (10 extra amps always helps) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevotron5000 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 thanks i have a del sol and my wing rattles more than the bass but it looks good on the car is there a way to fix this if you know Check to make sure you don't have any loose bolts, that's all I can think of. I've heard of people using weatherstripping to dampen rattles if that doesn't help... im running a 755w rms set up, and it will dim the dash lights quite a bit at full load, however that should be remedied when I do the big 3, also mind you im running the alt from a b16 (10 extra amps always helps) You're running that monster 5 channel JBL right? and I didn't know the b16 alts were 80 amps. I might need to pick one of those up when I upgrade my wiring... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sol 16 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmgogo Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 6 channel, its actually a boat amp haha. Just realize tho it isnt a "bolt up" afair, you have to tap a hole on the alt, and mic out the alt bracket to make it fit, also your going to need the bseries belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevotron5000 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 6 channel, its actually a boat amp haha. Just realize tho it isnt a "bolt up" afair, you have to tap a hole on the alt, and mic out the alt bracket to make it fit, also your going to need the bseries belt. LOL @boat amp! nvm about the b16 alt then...I may just get one of those 130 amp alts from ebay. I've known a few people who got them with good result. The only thing I don't like is that they don't tell you how many amps it runs at idle and I'd lose a couple of horse power but it would work fine for any future upgrades I might do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 cory, its been a few years since i looked at a b-series alt up close and personal, but what the hell do you have to tap a hole for?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmgogo Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 IIRC the d series alt uses a bolt through to mount where as the Bseries threads through the block. I dunno, i just remember having to tap the alt to get it to attach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raley Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Hmm ill have to look into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20011.7vtech Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 why not just get a good voltage regulator and a capacitor with high wattage rates pssh problem solved for under 250.00$ what!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmgogo Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 cap wont solve problem, nor will the regulator. Problem is inferior grounds and a low output alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20011.7vtech Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 but with a vr it seperates and distributes evenly to all electric components alt injectors dash all of it if im not mistaken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmgogo Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 no it doesnt, its basicly a load junction box. Not only that but if you "need" one then you are doing something wrong unless your running a +10K watt system. The problem has less to do with the supply of electrons, but rather more the return of them to the battery, hence why you need to upgrade your grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20011.7vtech Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 hmm 10 4 i was misinformed then sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vDerickv Posted February 18, 2011 Share Posted February 18, 2011 I'm powering a 700watt amp on 100A circuit breaker on a new battery and stock alt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civic9517 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 i powered two 1000d's on 2 dual voice coil 4 ohm 15's, 1,500watts rms a piece. I did how ever have several capacitors, and isn' t this what you guys are talking about? The amp is only capable of PEAK watts for a VARY short time, then it relies on pulling more power from the power cable, but if you cant release the electrons, then whats the point. An alt is designed to charge, is a sence of TIME, not a source of energy like a bomb, basically alternators are obsessed with time. anything over 400watts rms (roots mean squared) bout 70% based on E, means you need to find another way to find the energy. A capacitor is one way but as an other poster said, you need to continue the idea of REMOVING the electrons, Its like the saying, power is nothing without control, it applies to electrons too. You cant shove 10000watts of energy into speakers when the same energy is LEAVing and coming back to the amp, and you have no way of removing the 'pressure' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screamincivic Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Or maybe....add another battery!!! And with only 350 peak...that really isnt much...shouldnt be to worryed...and is there only one amp or two one for highs and mids all added power takers...increass the demand!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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