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increase speaker power


sol 16

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ok so i have a 350 watt amp on 2 10s i want to go up to a 600 watt amp but i have this tiny battery and i was wondering if it is as strong as a reg. battery and if so what would you suggest

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ok so i have a 350 watt amp on 2 10s i want to go up to a 600 watt amp but i have this tiny battery and i was wondering if it is as strong as a reg. battery and if so what would you suggest

 

what are the ratings on the battery, stock alt?, 600rms or peak, need MOAR info!

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well it a stock alt and the Battery CA @ 32 Degrees F : 590 Battery CCA @ 0 Degrees F : 475 and does the dimming of the light mess up your car in anyway

 

Is your amp 350watts RMS or peak?

 

And depending on how much your lights are dimming it may decrease the life of your alternator/battery since it can't keep up with the demands of your audio system on top of its normal duties.

Edited by Stevotron5000
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well it a stock alt and the Battery CA @ 32 Degrees F : 590 Battery CCA @ 0 Degrees F : 475 and does the dimming of the light mess up your car in anyway

 

It doesn't as far as I know...

 

the battery gets recharged straight away anyway, so long as u don't have the stereo blasting without the engine on, can't see it doing much.

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It doesn't as far as I know...

 

the battery gets recharged straight away anyway, so long as u don't have the stereo blasting without the engine on, can't see it doing much.

 

It gets recharged straight away if there isn't some monster amp sucking the life out of the alternator to the point where it can't keep up, at which point you are shortening the life of your alt. while slowly killing your battery since it keeps getting depleted without being charged up again.

 

A 350watt peak amp (again, a near meaningless number, RMS is much more accurate) is a very light load.

 

I run at 550 watt RMS and it only affects my RPMS and lights at idle, full tilt, on a very bass heavy song.

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It gets recharged straight away if there isn't some monster amp sucking the life out of the alternator to the point where it can't keep up, at which point you are shortening the life of your alt. while slowly killing your battery since it keeps getting depleted without being charged up again.

 

A 350watt peak amp (again, a near meaningless number, RMS is much more accurate) is a very light load.

 

I run at 550 watt RMS and it only affects my RPMS and lights at idle, full tilt, on a very bass heavy song.

thanks i have a del sol and my wing rattles more than the bass but it looks good on the car is there a way to fix this if you know

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im running a 755w rms set up, and it will dim the dash lights quite a bit at full load, however that should be remedied when I do the big 3, also mind you im running the alt from a b16 (10 extra amps always helps)

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thanks i have a del sol and my wing rattles more than the bass but it looks good on the car is there a way to fix this if you know

 

Check to make sure you don't have any loose bolts, that's all I can think of.

 

I've heard of people using weatherstripping to dampen rattles if that doesn't help...

 

im running a 755w rms set up, and it will dim the dash lights quite a bit at full load, however that should be remedied when I do the big 3, also mind you im running the alt from a b16 (10 extra amps always helps)

 

You're running that monster 5 channel JBL right?

 

and I didn't know the b16 alts were 80 amps. I might need to pick one of those up when I upgrade my wiring...

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6 channel, its actually a boat amp haha.

 

Just realize tho it isnt a "bolt up" afair, you have to tap a hole on the alt, and mic out the alt bracket to make it fit, also your going to need the bseries belt.

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6 channel, its actually a boat amp haha.

 

Just realize tho it isnt a "bolt up" afair, you have to tap a hole on the alt, and mic out the alt bracket to make it fit, also your going to need the bseries belt.

 

LOL @boat amp!

 

nvm about the b16 alt then...I may just get one of those 130 amp alts from ebay. I've known a few people who got them with good result. The only thing I don't like is that they don't tell you how many amps it runs at idle and I'd lose a couple of horse power but it would work fine for any future upgrades I might do.

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no it doesnt, its basicly a load junction box. Not only that but if you "need" one then you are doing something wrong unless your running a +10K watt system. The problem has less to do with the supply of electrons, but rather more the return of them to the battery, hence why you need to upgrade your grounds.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

i powered two 1000d's on 2 dual voice coil 4 ohm 15's, 1,500watts rms a piece. I did how ever have several capacitors, and isn' t this what you guys are talking about? The amp is only capable of PEAK watts for a VARY short time, then it relies on pulling more power from the power cable, but if you cant release the electrons, then whats the point. An alt is designed to charge, is a sence of TIME, not a source of energy like a bomb, basically alternators are obsessed with time. anything over 400watts rms (roots mean squared) bout 70% based on E, means you need to find another way to find the energy. A capacitor is one way but as an other poster said, you need to continue the idea of REMOVING the electrons, Its like the saying, power is nothing without control, it applies to electrons too. You cant shove 10000watts of energy into speakers when the same energy is LEAVing and coming back to the amp, and you have no way of removing the 'pressure'

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