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@ low boost you can run stock injectors and pump (less than 7psi) boost controlelrs are dirt cheap (you can build one for $6) bov are cheap as well, resistor box you can make your own for about $15

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@ low boost you can run stock injectors and pump (less than 7psi) boost controlelrs are dirt cheap (you can build one for $6) bov are cheap as well, resistor box you can make your own for about $15

 

i actually plan on running 7-10 p.s.i prolly more towards 10.

ill have to do a lil research to figure out how to make one (thanks for the info).

as far as the resistorbox i can spen 30 or so on a honda resistor box off e-gay (which i'd much rather do, seeing how i've never made one before)

 

with an internal wastegate if its set for say 15 p.s.i can't i bend the arm or something along those lines to set it lowwer ? or would i be better off buying one set to the p.s.i i plan to run?

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I have heard of some people using a turnbuckle to replace the arm, however Im not exactly sure how well it works, i have only ever dealt with externally waste gated systems. Honestly if you want to run the car at multiple levels of boost I would get an external w/g that you can hook up to your controller.

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Interal gates can be adjusted by vacuum. Get a 10 dollar boost controler (probably cheaper)

 

As for resistor box, all obd0 hondas use them, in a few weeks ill look to see if i have an extra, i use to have like 10 of them....

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Interal gates can be adjusted by vacuum. Get a 10 dollar boost controler (probably cheaper)

 

As for resistor box, all obd0 hondas use them, in a few weeks ill look to see if i have an extra, i use to have like 10 of them....

 

how is a boost controller gonna help a internal w.g. set at 15 p.s.i ? i thought a boost controller could only make the p.s.i go up from what ever its set at? i.e the w.g set at 15 p.s.i and you set the boost controller to 3 p.s.i it would make your over all boost 18 p.s.i

 

that'd be sweet thanks.

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Dsm interal is set a 7-8, like most gates

 

I think he's taking the 15psi off the fact that I told him my experience with one...When I was boosted on a dsm t25, hf mainfold, my gauge boost went to 15psi. And nothing was altered on the wastegate either(no boost controller or anything. Just a line going from the wastegate to the compressor housing)..I was under the same assumption that the t25 was 7-8psi..and when I saw consistently 15psi I went with t because my block could easily handle it.

 

Supposedly the story goes 2g eclipse' the internal wastegate was 8psi. but the ecu boosted it to 15psi...idk. nothing was altered on my set-up and it ran Mint..

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Dsm interal is set a 7-8, like most gates

 

i was under that impression too. but ive read on several sites that the w.g is actually set at i believe its 11-15 p.s.i.

 

I think he's taking the 15psi off the fact that I told him my experience with one...When I was boosted on a dsm t25, hf mainfold, my gauge boost went to 15psi. And nothing was altered on the wastegate either(no boost controller or anything. Just a line going from the wastegate to the compressor housing)..I was under the same assumption that the t25 was 7-8psi..and when I saw consistently 15psi I went with t because my block could easily handle it.

 

Supposedly the story goes 2g eclipse' the internal wastegate was 8psi. but the ecu boosted it to 15psi...idk. nothing was altered on my set-up and it ran Mint..

 

yeah i wasn't going off just that. i havent done a ton of research on it but what i have seen shows me that the w.g is set higher then what p.s.i i would like to safely run.

 

p.s im like half asleep so if i dont make any sense im sorry

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well, don't run that vac line to the compresser, then you are at 7-8psi, with it hooked up it causes there to be extra pressure on the back side of the WG and it puts it up some... ive seen 9-11 but never 15, thats sweet...

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well, don't run that vac line to the compresser, then you are at 7-8psi, with it hooked up it causes there to be extra pressure on the back side of the WG and it puts it up some... ive seen 9-11 but never 15, thats sweet...

 

ok. so if i run the vac line from the w.g to the i.m instead of to the compressor housing ? i dont exactly understand what you mean, i think i do but im not sure.

 

so i was on h-t lastnight and realized there are more people out my way then i thought. but there all way up north.

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Ust go to atm... not to anything

 

you mean atmosphere ? it wont hurt any thing buy having no vac system on it ? i was thinking about just welding the internal w.g flap and using an external with interchangeable springs .. do you think that would be my best bet ? i could get a cheap w.g off ebay and just run that for a while . i wish i had someone out here who had some exp. boosting these to help me ( i think lastresort should drive up here help my sorry asss lol ). my friend can do the tuning with crome cause he uses it with his volvo and rx7's.

 

btw i have a ko3 off a 1.8t but i dont think i wanna use that. i might hook it up just for craps and giggles for a lil bit

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you mean atmosphere ? it wont hurt any thing buy having no vac system on it ? i was thinking about just welding the internal w.g flap and using an external with interchangeable springs .. do you think that would be my best bet ? i could get a cheap w.g off ebay and just run that for a while . i wish i had someone out here who had some exp. boosting these to help me ( i think lastresort should drive up here help my sorry asss lol ). my friend can do the tuning with crome cause he uses it with his volvo and rx7's.

 

btw i have a ko3 off a 1.8t but i dont think i wanna use that. i might hook it up just for craps and giggles for a lil bit

 

haha, I was gonna say befor eI finished readin, crap I'd help ya out if your ass wasnt 6+ hours away lol...The Ko3 is a decent turbo, not as good as the Ko4 which would be perfect on a z6 for insta-boost..My buddies '225' TT pulled nicely, but may not have been as fast as my z6 with a t25 at 15# though..We never got to 'compare'..

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haha, I was gonna say befor eI finished readin, crap I'd help ya out if your ass wasnt 6+ hours away lol...The Ko3 is a decent turbo, not as good as the Ko4 which would be perfect on a z6 for insta-boost..My buddies '225' TT pulled nicely, but may not have been as fast as my z6 with a t25 at 15# though..We never got to 'compare'..

 

im running a d15b7.... lol . i kinda dont wanna boost a z6 until after i get used to boost, i dont think i'll ever go with a B-series or H. maybe a K if i can ever find a good deal on one.

 

i have the ko3 like i said but one of the bolts snapped off flush in the exhaust side to hold the mani down. i brought it to napa to have them drill it out but the guy said he didnt have hard enough bits and my buddy tried but he said he couldnt get it either. i might try to weld a washer to the bolt then a nut and try that route.

either that or bring it to someone that has a welder that can do cast and have them weld an adapter to it cause im not positive but i believe the exhaust side is cast, and my mig wouldnt cut it i dont think.

i might just use the ko3 with stock injectors and pump see how it runs then decide if i wanna go bigger.

 

any suggestions...... ?

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stock internals on a b7 (or any d series motor for that matter) are usualy safe up to about 200-250hp from what ive read, after that, start looking for new rods and pistons.

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I know the b7 rods are weaker than the z6... i dunno how much.

 

And cory, you can have an amazing motor fully built, with a bad tune it will blow up.

 

The rods are like a c**t hair weaker, nothing you can really measure at least

 

and as far as the tune, amen. The tune is what makes or breaks the set up.

 

 

 

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stock internals on a b7 (or any d series motor for that matter) are usualy safe up to about 200-250hp from what ive read, after that, start looking for new rods and pistons.

 

yeah thats what i got from my research too. as long as i dont break the 250hp mark i should be good with a good tune. im hoping to keep it around the 200whp and like to get around 150-170lbs of torque

 

 

I know the b7 rods are weaker than the z6... i dunno how much.

 

And cory, you can have an amazing motor fully built, with a bad tune it will blow up.

 

as for the rods i was wondering if anyone knows if i can use forged z6 rods with over sized bearings or are the z6 rods too long/wide or something ?

 

also if i was to get a z6 lower end build it and use my b7 head will i need to change out my e.c.u to make up for the lower end ? ( dont ask why i dont want a full z6 )

 

im not to worried about blowing my motor up cause i have a spare in my garage just needs rod bearings, it came in the new civic and i just switched out my good motor from old civic to the new.

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Im not sure if you can swap the rods. You will need a new tune going from 1.5 to 1.6l though.

 

yeah.

 

im prolly gonna just boost what i got for now. ill use the ko3 that i got when i start building it i'll start a build thread should be withing a couple months i just want this stupid snow to go away before i boost it, cause it is my dd. ima goto the junkyard and find the lines and piece of the dp i need for the ko3 hopefully i can get it cheap.

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Dumpster dive the miffler shops, usually can find some 2 foot chunks if not more.

 

i actually need the part of the dp that bolts to the turbo cause i didnt get it with the turbo, cause im a meat head. but im sure i can get it from a junkyard around my area cause 1.8t are very common .

 

good thing about this turbo is i should be fully spooled by 2500 rpms , downfall is it'll more then likely loose breathe around 5500 rpms .

 

hopefully next week i can get the piece of the dp i need. ill get started on fabbing an adapter and dp and post pics up. i have that spare b7 in my garage i can use for mock up purposes.

im eager to get started on the fabbing i have a bunch of time and not much to do.

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you said you can weld right?...Easy grab a 1/4" thing of plate steel grab, the DP gasket from autozone, trace it on the plate steel and either use a cut-off wheel or drill a million holes along the trace, then smooth it down..Now you have a DP flange that you can put your piping to.

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