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90 CRX HF questions (timing belt. electrical)


okcrxhf

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I finally found a CRX HF. It's a 1990 with 275, 000 miles on it. The PO told me that the timing belt needed to be changed based on what a mechanic told him, who wanted to charge him $700 to change it which told me the guy was trying to screw him over.

 

I inspected the timing belt and rotated it around. There are no teeth missing, no frays or cracks in it. It does look like oil has slightly seeped out of the valve gasket cover and got the timing belt compartment all covered with gunk from the oil residue mixing with dirt and dust. The tension pully spring is pretty caked over with gunk, and there is oil residue inside the timing belt cover. The only oil I can see that actually got on the belt is on the outside. One of belts that goes around the alternator needs to be replaced pretty bad, it's cracked. Concerning the timing belt, the car doesn't miss or idle rough, and starts right up. The A/C hasn't worked in a while, so I believe that would be less strain on the belt.

 

I was wondering if this timing belt is good for another 100 miles or so, I'd prefer to take it to my hometown and get it worked on at a Honda-Toyota-Nissan import repair place instead of a local place here I don't know about. The Oklahoma CIty Auto Repair here only wants $435 for a timing belt/water pump/seals/tension pully and spring which is a good deal I think . .the place in Tulsa I wanted $500 to replace everything with a timing belt kit. I guess I should have faith that a timing belt replacement to most certified mechanics is a pretty standard and easy thing so they won't screw it up, lol.

 

The other thing is an electrical drain somewhere. The PO took it to a place and they tried to trace it but couldn't find it. If I let the car set for more than 24 hours I just unscrew a cap I put on the negative terminal which disconnects the battery without having to pull the whole cable off. Does the CRX HF have a known electrical drain that is a trouble maker? It won't make the battery dead if I let it set for more than 24 hours, but you can tell that it's been drain based on the cranking power.

 

Other than that, I love this car. Interior is pretty clean with no damage or cracks on the dash and shined up nice with some armor all. No rust on the under carriage, except there are a couple of half-dollar sized spots above the back wheels which a body shop can fix.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I finally found a CRX HF. It's a 1990 with 275, 000 miles on it. The PO told me that the timing belt needed to be changed based on what a mechanic told him, who wanted to charge him $700 to change it which told me the guy was trying to screw him over.

 

I inspected the timing belt and rotated it around. There are no teeth missing, no frays or cracks in it. It does look like oil has slightly seeped out of the valve gasket cover and got the timing belt compartment all covered with gunk from the oil residue mixing with dirt and dust. The tension pully spring is pretty caked over with gunk, and there is oil residue inside the timing belt cover. The only oil I can see that actually got on the belt is on the outside. One of belts that goes around the alternator needs to be replaced pretty bad, it's cracked. Concerning the timing belt, the car doesn't miss or idle rough, and starts right up. The A/C hasn't worked in a while, so I believe that would be less strain on the belt.

 

I was wondering if this timing belt is good for another 100 miles or so, I'd prefer to take it to my hometown and get it worked on at a Honda-Toyota-Nissan import repair place instead of a local place here I don't know about. The Oklahoma CIty Auto Repair here only wants $435 for a timing belt/water pump/seals/tension pully and spring which is a good deal I think . .the place in Tulsa I wanted $500 to replace everything with a timing belt kit. I guess I should have faith that a timing belt replacement to most certified mechanics is a pretty standard and easy thing so they won't screw it up, lol.

 

The other thing is an electrical drain somewhere. The PO took it to a place and they tried to trace it but couldn't find it. If I let the car set for more than 24 hours I just unscrew a cap I put on the negative terminal which disconnects the battery without having to pull the whole cable off. Does the CRX HF have a known electrical drain that is a trouble maker? It won't make the battery dead if I let it set for more than 24 hours, but you can tell that it's been drain based on the cranking power.

 

Other than that, I love this car. Interior is pretty clean with no damage or cracks on the dash and shined up nice with some armor all. No rust on the under carriage, except there are a couple of half-dollar sized spots above the back wheels which a body shop can fix.

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If there is no physical damage to belt I would trust it for one last hundred miles.

To troubleshoot electrical I would get a cheap multimeter with amp function. Put meter (in amp mode) in series with neg battery terminal and ground. You should get an amperage value. Take each fuse our one at a time. If removing fuse drops reading than you have located suspect circuit. If your car has a clock or radio, you will always see a few milliamps.

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