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2000 civic died while driving


fishindude911

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ok heres the deal, i bought a honda civic in april, the tranny went bad and had to have it replaced. had a 5 speed put in and didnt have the ecu changed, so the cel stays on. i went to gas station and got gas and also checked oil and added oil since it was low. i was driving down the road about 30 miles after i got gas and it just died. it will turn over but it will not start.i didnt know where to start looking as im kinda stumped. any ideas will be greatly appreciated

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take off the valve cover. the left (driver) side of the vc covers part of the top of the belt. as long as it is not an SI model I think it is 4 small bolts.

 

basically, if you are not leaking anything and the motor 100% stopped without any previous warning or noises the timing belt is the think to check.

Edited by Xeryon
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take off the valve cover. the left (driver) side of the vc covers part of the top of the belt. as long as it is not an SI model I think it is 4 small bolts.

 

basically, if you are not leaking anything and the motor 100% stopped without any previous warning or noises the timing belt is the think to check.

ok when i go to take the valve cover off, and i check the timing belt what am i looking for, broken belt, stretched belt or what. ive worked cars alot, i do all maintenance minor and some major, but haave never ran across this problem. again thanks for your help

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if the car went 100% dead you are looking for the belt to be snapped. If it had jumped a tooth the car would try to run, but do so very poorly since it would be significantly out of time.

 

this is a common failure item in a civic that has not had the belt properly replaced every 80-100k miles as diving conditions warrant. obviously, with a rubber belt it is possible for it to break before that interval but is not as common.

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alright i checked the timing belt and the belt was good and it was in time also. grounded plug and no fire and also checked with test light. were getting fuel to the engine, so thats not the problem, so its electrical somewhere. is there some relay that powers the distributor that im not knowing about or some kind of ignition module or something thats keeping from getting fire to the plugs or distributor

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I am positive there is a method to test them, but I have no idea where to start with that.

 

I have always just replaced the entire distributor, but that was because I had several second-hand ones just sitting on a shelf and it cost me nothing. I would do whichever your budget can handle, a distributor isn't cheap, just try to make sure that wherever you buy the parts from would allow you to return them if needed.

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I am positive there is a method to test them, but I have no idea where to start with that.

 

I have always just replaced the entire distributor, but that was because I had several second-hand ones just sitting on a shelf and it cost me nothing. I would do whichever your budget can handle, a distributor isn't cheap, just try to make sure that wherever you buy the parts from would allow you to return them if needed.

i was told by a guy from advance that they can test the icm and determine whether it is bad or not, and eliminate that as the source and to keep from buying that. and more than likely its the coil, so have the icm tested and if its good then the coil is the problem. and also you can get a new distributor with new icm and coil new cheaper than if you were to buy them seperately. but since funds are kinda short im going the cheaper route. that was also for the cheaper distributor. just to let ya know.

Edited by fishindude911
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