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Brembo + Hawk


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because that bumps you up a few classes in time attack

 

 

and i dont like how brittle/faded lexan and plexi can get

 

And building a car to the T for class specs is what it's all about!! It sux..but mandatory unless you want to be labeled a cheater.. I 'll pass.

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as long as you are in a fair weather location does simply taking out the driver and passenger glass affect your class? if the cars were garaged it wouldn't be an issue.

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it wasnt so much wear as a giant gouge being cut into the rotor

 

well yeah that's what i meant, looks like the pad chiseled out a perfect track, like the pads were too hard and ground the metal right off

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And building a car to the T for class specs is what it's all about!! It sux..but mandatory unless you want to be labeled a cheater.. I 'll pass.

 

bad thing is that i dont know how many redline (maybe NASA) events it will see but i'd rather make sure it fits in the class i would like to be in just in case

 

drifting seems to just need tech and thats it lol

 

 

as long as you are in a fair weather location does simply taking out the driver and passenger glass affect your class? if the cars were garaged it wouldn't be an issue.

 

you have to have full glass installed from what I have read and understand.. and right now we are running out of garage space laugh.gif

 

 

 

well yeah that's what i meant, looks like the pad chiseled out a perfect track, like the pads were too hard and ground the metal right off

 

i think thats exactly what happened

 

 

 

 

anyway update:

 

centric rotors (all 4) and akebono pads (front) are on.. pads are still getting burned in but i will make a full review when they are settled.. you can seriously tell the difference in the pad compound from looking at the front vs back.. front looks quite nice while the hawks on the back made the rear rotors all bad and dirty looking.. probably going to buy akebono rear pads after these front ones burn in and i see how i like them (i already like them so i'm hoping they get better)

 

 

i had been getting a vibration at about 65mph+ lately... driving me insane.. pretty much rattled the targa it was getting so bad.. also had a strange 'whooshy' sound (made a thread about it a while ago.. turned into hampster/boob thread) since i got the car back from the crap shop it was at when it was wrecked.. WELL both problems are gone now biggrin.gif I think those brembos were messed up or something

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bad thing is that i dont know how many redline (maybe NASA) events it will see but i'd rather make sure it fits in the class i would like to be in just in case

 

drifting seems to just need tech and thats it lol

 

 

 

 

you have to have full glass installed from what I have read and understand.. and right now we are running out of garage space laugh.gif

 

 

 

 

 

i think thats exactly what happened

 

 

 

 

anyway update:

 

centric rotors (all 4) and akebono pads (front) are on.. pads are still getting burned in but i will make a full review when they are settled.. you can seriously tell the difference in the pad compound from looking at the front vs back.. front looks quite nice while the hawks on the back made the rear rotors all bad and dirty looking.. probably going to buy akebono rear pads after these front ones burn in and i see how i like them (i already like them so i'm hoping they get better)

 

 

i had been getting a vibration at about 65mph+ lately... driving me insane.. pretty much rattled the targa it was getting so bad.. also had a strange 'whooshy' sound (made a thread about it a while ago.. turned into hampster/boob thread) since i got the car back from the crap shop it was at when it was wrecked.. WELL both problems are gone now biggrin.gif I think those brembos were messed up or something

Good to hear positive's so far...But why so long to burnish the pads? Usually I do (hawks recommendation), 6-10 gradual stops from 30-35mph to get them nice and hot. Then, get on them quite hard at 55-0 mph three times..and then they're all set. You end up getting them so hot that I can usually see a cloud of smoke coming up around the fender.

 

and yeah I think those brembo blanks are over rated..and people(honda people) tend to jump on the part band wagon whether they're good or not.

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well i thought they were good.. till i realized they were crap

 

we broke the akebonos in pretty much the same way.. and there was smoke.. lol.. didnt smell nice.. under hard braking yesterday there was still a little smell.. i'll get some heat in them again on the way home and hopefully they should be good

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??? Never heard of that. Every professional mechanic I have ever heard from sets the pads. Basically, you do a specific sequence to mate the surface of the pad to the rotor to insure you get 100% contact. Otherwise you have reduced brake power the first few stops as the micro grooves in the rotor and pad haven't worn together yet.

 

maybe after that take it easy, but i was always taught that you need to see smoke or smell hot brakes to insure you properly set them

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Straight from hawk tech guy:

 

Then up to about 55 mph and brake pretty hard, don't trigger the ABS, down to about 5 mph, don't come to a stop.

 

Drive for about a mile without hitting the brakes

 

Then back up to 55 mph hard pressure brake, no ABS, down to 5 mph

 

Then right back to 55 mph and hard brakes, no ABS, down to 5 mph

 

Drive for a couple of miles to let it cool. Head home and park it for about 30 minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

and as far as the braking hard in the first 500 miles.. if i was such a crapty driver that i had to slam on my brakes all the time i doubt the hawks would have had 3/4 of the pad left after ~2 years

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Straight from hawk tech guy:

 

Then up to about 55 mph and brake pretty hard, don't trigger the ABS, down to about 5 mph, don't come to a stop.

 

Drive for about a mile without hitting the brakes

 

Then back up to 55 mph hard pressure brake, no ABS, down to 5 mph

 

Then right back to 55 mph and hard brakes, no ABS, down to 5 mph

 

Drive for a couple of miles to let it cool. Head home and park it for about 30 minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

and as far as the braking hard in the first 500 miles.. if i was such a crapty driver that i had to slam on my brakes all the time i doubt the hawks would have had 3/4 of the pad left after ~2 years

I'm trying to imagine a place where you can drive back and forth 55mph then slam on the brakes to 5mph, then driving without braking for a mile? What if someone gets in your way or theres traffic? That whole process sounds fuking retarded and unrealistic. You'd be pissing the fuk out of anyone around you. Maybe at 3am on some back country road. But a long back road cuz you cant hit the brakes for one whole mile.

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I'm trying to imagine a place where you can drive back and forth 55mph then slam on the brakes to 5mph, then driving without braking for a mile? What if someone gets in your way or theres traffic? That whole process sounds fuking retarded and unrealistic. You'd be pissing the fuk out of anyone around you. Maybe at 3am on some back country road. But a long back road cuz you cant hit the brakes for one whole mile.

 

I was able to do it in my neighborhood at 3pm...although my burnishing was done a lil differently. I think each pad may have a different technique..I followed it for the hp+

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That's the recommended, but not the end all. you can do a 0-55-5-55-5-55 combo on a relatively short stretch of roadway, but the key here is that doing the 55-5 drops is done really hard, nothing says you can't use the brakes normally to stop for a traffic light or turn around just so long as you get them to max operating temp as soon as possible.

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it looks like a body colored grill to me. whats messed up about it?

 

mines body colored oem, whats the diff?

From the factory? Mine wasnt from the factory as well as other cars that have that.

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yah.. cause mine so looks like its from the factory ? wacko.gif

 

 

 

I've thought about painting it black.. cause they didnt seal it right so the paint is chipping in the back part.. but I didnt think it would look right

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yah.. cause mine so looks like its from the factory ? wacko.gif

 

 

 

I've thought about painting it black.. cause they didnt seal it right so the paint is chipping in the back part.. but I didnt think it would look right

The bumper could be stock?? Trust me it would look better black. I can't emphasize that enough.

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a 1/2 stretch of road is plenty and shouldn't be too hard to find, your only getting up to 55 and most roads are rated around 45 so its not like your pushing it too hard. but back on topic the discs and calipers on the srt look about the same size/dimensions as those that would be on a civic and just having the 4 wheel disc and better brake fluid makes a world of difference

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yah well i like that car and am not going to paint a grill part black to please anyone.. sorry.. oh wait.. no im not sorry laugh.gif not to mention nothing on the car is black so i think it would look strange

 

 

i want to drain brake fluid... clutch fluid got changed when the slave cylinder exploded and i lost all fluid hahaha

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yah well i like that car and am not going to paint a grill part black to please anyone.. sorry.. oh wait.. no im not sorry laugh.gif not to mention nothing on the car is black so i think it would look strange

 

 

i want to drain brake fluid... clutch fluid got changed when the slave cylinder exploded and i lost all fluid hahaha

It's to please yourself. I don't give a fuk personally, just trying to help a sista out. And you're really not supposed to know it's painted. Which is why you paint it flat or low gloss black. Take for example my friend Takezo. You can see the center unpainted bar in the bottom opening. That looks like ass when people paint it to match. Looks good no? You can barely tell it's there.

 

takezo2007sig.jpg

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