where can i find a car alarm

[redneck]

lookin to buy a good car alarm. just wondering where on line or if anyone knows a place in the portland area where to find a good car alarm. price is no issue. my civic is manual everything. thanks for helping.

 

outragious audio sayed just car alarm is 375 installed life time warrenty as long as i own the car. 2 channel i think he sayed with antana on winshield. think it came with a screen thing for ur keys. quarter mile reading. comes with hood pin (will go off if someone tried to open hood) some other stuff to but forgot...frack.

 

alarm with remote start is 725ish same as above...

[Dual-500]

lookin to buy a good car alarm. just wondering where on line or if anyone knows a place in the portland area where to find a good car alarm. price is no issue. my civic is manual everything. thanks for helping.

 

outragious audio sayed just car alarm is 375 installed life time warrenty as long as i own the car. 2 channel i think he sayed with antana on winshield. think it came with a screen thing for ur keys. quarter mile reading. comes with hood pin (will go off if someone tried to open hood) some other stuff to but forgot...frack.

 

alarm with remote start is 725ish same as above...

The $375 price is in the ballpark for a decent system installed. The only question to ask them is how do they do the splices? If the answer is ANYTHING BUT SOLDER/TAPE/HEAT SHRINK - GO SOMEWHERE ELSE.

[redneck]

The $375 price is in the ballpark for a decent system installed. The only question to ask them is how do they do the splices? If the answer is ANYTHING BUT SOLDER/TAPE/HEAT SHRINK - GO SOMEWHERE ELSE.

 

 

i called agian he sayed they tap in to the wire harness....

[cmgogo]

DONT GOTO OUTRAGEOUS AUDIO!

 

Have had a few friends go there, and less than a week later after they installed gear, amazingly the car was stolen, alarm never went off, no broken glass, the car just drove away...

 

Honesly I installed my alarm myself, took a while, and a ton of headaches, but I know I did it right.

 

As far as remote start... dont. Seen a few friends have mangled bumpers from their cars starting in gear, accidents happen.

 

Personally I would buy the alarm seperate, and take it to a shop (I belive my neighbor took his avital 5303 to cartoys in gateway) and total for the alarm and install was around 400.

 

If you choose to go the DIY route let me know, i can help out a bit. Dont expect me to do the work, its hard on the back (even when the car was gutted)

[Dual-500]

i called agian he sayed they tap in to the wire harness....

Stay away.

 

I had a Clifford system installed in my '91 hatch when I bought it in Saptember 2002. Almost 8 years ago. Been through the original 2 remotes and one my third now with #4 spare in drawer. I took it to shop a few weeks ago to program it up for the #3 remote that I purchased online along with #4. No charge. Service is what it's about. And, when working a engine cutting out issue about 2 years ago, (turned out to be sensor in dizzy) the guys assisted me and told me, the alarms don't die. They have never had one fail. Installation workmanship can and does fail. They do cleanups of crappy installs all the time. I have taken them 2 myself on friends cars.

 

Wire splicing without solder and tape/heat shrink is crap. Even crimp on type connections must be used carefully and not under the hood without solder. In the aircraft my company manufacturers crimp type connectors can't even be used - only hot air solder type. There is a reason for that.

 

What I'm saying is a reputable shop will do the work right, it will last a long long time with no issues and they will provide you with customer service if/when needed.

 

Toi answer you original question, I can't. But can advise you on what to look for to find a good place.

 

And yeah, I know first hand about crip on type connectors. My '91 Civic hatch was littered with that crap. I thing most of it's cleaned up now. But, wires to headlights were corroded under the hood from that BS. Some hillbilly alarm that some d!psh!t installed. Probably a DIY scab job.

 

Have it done right and save yourself future woes.

 

As cmgogo alludes to - remote start is just a BS gimmick and waste of money.

 

And yeah, a DIY job is fine and the guys here can and will help out.

[cmgogo]

dont get me wrong, remote start isnt a gimmic per say, its just where we live redneck we dont need to run our cars for 15 minutes before we get into them because its -10 out like it is on the east coast, but even when i lived in philly i still would never put remote start on a manual trans.

[redneck]

dont get me wrong, remote start isnt a gimmic per say, its just where we live redneck we dont need to run our cars for 15 minutes before we get into them because its -10 out like it is on the east coast, but even when i lived in philly i still would never put remote start on a manual trans.

 

 

true true thanks guys verry much

 

cmgogo call me or text me i have a few questions for ya on this alarm stuff. my number is on ur facebook.

[Dual-500]

Better clarify this: "As cmgogo alludes to - remote start is just a BS gimmick and waste of money."

 

cmgogo didn't suggest it was BS, I did in a momentary lapse of sanity - stil stewing about the mess that was made of wiring in my hatch by some idiot.

 

Yeah, remote start has it's place without a doubt. I wouldn't entertain in in a stick shift, but the system would most certainly have a failsafe and know it was in neutral and be fine and dandy with an automatic tranny in a cold climate..

[redneck]

Better clarify this: "As cmgogo alludes to - remote start is just a BS gimmick and waste of money."

 

cmgogo didn't suggest it was BS, I did in a momentary lapse of sanity - stil stewing about the mess that was made of wiring in my hatch by some idiot.

 

Yeah, remote start has it's place without a doubt. I wouldn't entertain in in a stick shift, but the system would most certainly have a failsafe and know it was in neutral and be fine and dandy with an automatic tranny in a cold climate..

 

 

yea u guys are right. i dont need it its not nessary here in oregon. thats for places like whyoming.

[Dual-500]

i called agian he sayed they tap in to the wire harness....

Any alarm will "Tap" or "Splice" into the cars electrical system - I like to use "Integrate". They all integrate into the vehicle electrical system to a degree - some more than others. Ignition cut out, fuel pump cut out, flashing lights, door switches and so on.

 

It's "How" the integration is accomplished. If the connections are direct plug on, such as grabbing power from fuse block, then crimp on type are fine. They don't need to be soldered, but it's still best. Wire to wire splices shoud ALWAYS be soldered and tape/heat shrink.

 

Just wanted to be sure I communicated that completely. So, they "Tap" into the wiring. How do they "Tap" into the wiring?

 

Connectors like the one pictured on the left will cause you much grief down the road - don't EVER use them. The crimp on type on the right can be used in some applications. I always "Tin" the wire ends when using them and solder them when used in engine bay. This is accomplished by taking an X-acto or utility knife and slicing the insulator off the crimp connector, then tin ends of wires, slide on heat shrink tubing, crimp on connector, sweat solder connector, let cool, slide heat shrink over it and hit it with the heat gun, or lighter, or torch, or bring hot soldering iron close or whatever heat source you are using to shrink it. I use a heat gun.

 

 

Just ask them if they solder connections.

 

My hatch was littered with the type on the left both at the rear tail lights, under the dash and under the hood for headlight wires. The alarm was gone and the mess left behind. Wires were cut/broken from the cheap splices and crappy workmanship. They were in some cases hanging by a few conductors of the multi-conductor stranded wires. The copper was also black and corroded because the insulation had been cut through and left unsealed and exposed to the elements. I removed them all, and replaced with inline ones like the blue one on the right using the technique I described above. Had to cut them back to properly "Dress" them out for re-splicing as they were black corroded or oxidized from exposure that the solder woudn't stick. Had to cut them back to get clean copper.

[redneck]

Any alarm will "Tap" or "Splice" into the cars electrical system - I like to use "Integrate". They all integrate into the vehicle electrical system to a degree - some more than others. Ignition cut out, fuel pump cut out, flashing lights, door switches and so on.

 

It's "How" the integration is accomplished. If the connections are direct plug on, such as grabbing power from fuse block, then crimp on type are fine. They don't need to be soldered, but it's still best. Wire to wire splices shoud ALWAYS be soldered and tape/heat shrink.

 

Just wanted to be sure I communicated that completely. So, they "Tap" into the wiring. How do they "Tap" into the wiring?

 

Connectors like the one pictured on the left will cause you much grief down the road - don't EVER use them. The crimp on type on the right can be used in some applications. I always "Tin" the wire ends when using them and solder them when used in engine bay. This is accomplished by taking an X-acto or utility knife and slicing the insulator off the crimp connector, then tin ends of wires, slide on heat shrink tubing, crimp on connector, sweat solder connector, let cool, slide heat shrink over it and hit it with the heat gun, or lighter, or torch, or bring hot soldering iron close or whatever heat source you are using to shrink it. I use a heat gun.

 

 

Just ask them if they solder connections.

 

My hatch was littered with the type on the left both at the rear tail lights, under the dash and under the hood for headlight wires. The alarm was gone and the mess left behind. Wires were cut/broken from the cheap splices and crappy workmanship. They were in some cases hanging by a few conductors of the multi-conductor stranded wires. The copper was also black and corroded because the insulation had been cut through and left unsealed and exposed to the elements. I removed them all, and replaced with inline ones like the blue one on the right using the technique I described above. Had to cut them back to properly "Dress" them out for re-splicing as they were black corroded or oxidized from exposure that the solder woudn't stick. Had to cut them back to get clean copper.

 

 

hey dual 500 ur cool u give so much good info i like that. thank you man. cmgog sayed not to go to outragious audio for alarms im thinkin ill go ask cartoys how much they have one for. i will deff make shure to ask if they do what u sayed. should i solder, heat shrink...ect the blue wire conectors on my stero? thats all i use is the blue ones in the pic on the far right side.

[Dual-500]

The type on the right is fine inside the car by just crimping them. Virtually all automotive wiring is stranded and it's even better when you tin the end of the wire that the connector is going on before you put it on and crimp it.

 

For wiring under the hood, I always solder everything and use heat shrink tubing. So, for under the hood wiring to use crimp on connectors: 1) Tin the ends of wires with solder, 2) Remove plastic insulation from crimp connector, 3) Slide heat shrink tubing over wire, 4) Slide connector over tinned wire and crimp, 5) Once soldered connection cools, slide heat shrink tubing in place and hit it with heat source to shrink it.

 

For larger wires like power and grounds for stereo, use a bit larger heat shrink tubing so you can put a layer or two of good electrical tape over the crimped and soldered connection - then the heat shrink tubing. That will protect it better from mechanical damage - i.e. short out and other problems.

 

Thanks for the compliment.

[cmgogo]

yeah when i did my alarm i did inline splicing (remove part of the insulation, tin, solder, tape, and liquid tape) and regular splicing (tin ends, solder, heatshrink)

 

 

Even with my stereo i soldered all the wires (i use adapter harnesses) and for the speakers ran continuous wires to elininate interference. Im a bit of a electrical nazi, but thats only because i know how much of a PITA it can be to diagnose issues.

[redneck]

yeah when i did my alarm i did inline splicing (remove part of the insulation, tin, solder, tape, and liquid tape) and regular splicing (tin ends, solder, heatshrink)

 

 

Even with my stereo i soldered all the wires (i use adapter harnesses) and for the speakers ran continuous wires to elininate interference. Im a bit of a electrical nazi, but thats only because i know how much of a PITA it can be to diagnose issues.

 

 

good thinkin maby ill run new speaker wire to elinimate interference also.

 

 

what name brande should i keep an eye out for? i know viper is a comon one.

 

called cartoys they sayed i have to go there to get a price...thinkin ill go monday. cmgogo wanna go?

[Dual-500]

For speaker runs, I use the cheapest 14 ga twin lead stranded I can get my hands on. Parts Express usually has good prices.

[Dual-500]

yeah when i did my alarm i did inline splicing (remove part of the insulation, tin, solder, tape, and liquid tape) and regular splicing (tin ends, solder, heatshrink)

 

Even with my stereo i soldered all the wires (i use adapter harnesses) and for the speakers ran continuous wires to elininate interference. Im a bit of a electrical nazi, but thats only because i know how much of a PITA it can be to diagnose issues.

When ya do stuff right, it only needs to be done once. In the long run you save both time and money. Funny how that works.

[cmgogo]

depends, im at school from 9am-230pm on monday. if its after that sure. also i have nothing but good praises about my avital.

[redneck]

depends, im at school from 9am-230pm on monday. if its after that sure. also i have nothing but good praises about my avital.

 

 

im not one that likes the hot heat ill hit u up on facebook later and tell ya. i dont have the money yet just getting an estimate.

[redneck]

For speaker runs, I use the cheapest 14 ga twin lead stranded I can get my hands on. Parts Express usually has good prices.

 

 

why is that? my door speakers have the stalk wireing my 6x9's have a lil new wiring. ill check out parts express.

[Dual-500]

why is that? my door speakers have the stalk wireing my 6x9's have a lil new wiring. ill check out parts express.

ok, we went from alarm wiring technique to stereo hardware. #1) I use the cheapest wire that fits the size requirements (14 ga for general purpose car audio) I can find. Go by price per foot. Less than $0.50 per foot is good. I don't buy into the "Magic Wire" theories that are out there. i.e. Monster Cable and others. Monster Cable is nice stuff and it I can get it at a reduced rate, then I'll use it. But, not at full retail. Just get the cheap stuff.

 

Why #14 ga.? Well, that's good for just about any general purpose car audio speaker run. Now if you're doing a multi-thousand watt installation, then you may want larger on some of the runs, such as subwoofers. But for an average system that's 200-750w range #14 is good. It has low resistance and is flexible, runs under carpets, and will fit into connectors readily.

 

This is fine and if you can go to a home improvement store and find a roll of similar for less, that's the stuff to use. For a low power system under 100w, 16ga is cheaper and will work just fine. That's still larger than OEM stock wiring.

 

So, without knowing your system disign specs, for loudspeaker runs, use #16 ga if it's around 100w total and if more like 250-750w total use #14 ga. And again, that's without going into specifics. If you have a 500w amp, bridged mono hammering a 2 ohm sub, the you will want #10 ga for that application.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-020

 

Optimum wire gauge size (cost -vs- performance) is application specific for any usage.

[redneck]

ok, we went from alarm wiring technique to stereo hardware. #1) I use the cheapest wire that fits the size requirements (14 ga for general purpose car audio) I can find. Go by price per foot. Less than $0.50 per foot is good. I don't buy into the "Magic Wire" theories that are out there. i.e. Monster Cable and others. Monster Cable is nice stuff and it I can get it at a reduced rate, then I'll use it. But, not at full retail. Just get the cheap stuff.

 

Why #14 ga.? Well, that's good for just about any general purpose car audio speaker run. Now if you're doing a multi-thousand watt installation, then you may want larger on some of the runs, such as subwoofers. But for an average system that's 200-750w range #14 is good. It has low resistance and is flexible, runs under carpets, and will fit into connectors readily.

 

This is fine and if you can go to a home improvement store and find a roll of similar for less, that's the stuff to use. For a low power system under 100w, 16ga is cheaper and will work just fine. That's still larger than OEM stock wiring.

 

So, without knowing your system disign specs, for loudspeaker runs, use #16 ga if it's around 100w total and if more like 250-750w total use #14 ga. And again, that's without going into specifics. If you have a 500w amp, bridged mono hammering a 2 ohm sub, the you will want #10 ga for that application.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=100-020

 

Optimum wire gauge size (cost -vs- performance) is application specific for any usage.

 

 

yea i noticed we drifted here lmao. if got a 1600w phenix gold amp, phenixgold compition sub w?, kicker 6x9's, doors are cheap ones till i get my new kicker.

 

sweet the gang is here now lmao!

[cmgogo]

my systems is a set of focal 165a1s in the doors and a focal 27v1 11" sub in the trunk.

 

For the doors i ran 12ga fibercore copperwire uninterupted from the amp to the speakers, and 8ga copper strand about a foot and a half from the amp to the sub. Its monster wire, but i got all my wire for dirt cheap when the radio shack near me went outa business.

all of it is ran off a 6channel jbl.

 

eventually ill run a set of coax focal 165c1s in the rear speaker locations, but when i do that ill be upgrading my amp. So basicly in a few years when i can afford to finish all my other jobs.

[redneck]

my systems is a set of focal 165a1s in the doors and a focal 27v1 11" sub in the trunk.

 

For the doors i ran 12ga fibercore copperwire uninterupted from the amp to the speakers, and 8ga copper strand about a foot and a half from the amp to the sub. Its monster wire, but i got all my wire for dirt cheap when the radio shack near me went outa business.

 

 

my sub is 12". i prob should re wire my crap. dont think i have enough wire tho...oh well ill do it some time lol. i was just snoopin around parts express. i like some of there deals. thinkin ima do a tune up on my car today.

[Dual-500]

my systems is a set of focal 165a1s in the doors and a focal 27v1 11" sub in the trunk.

 

For the doors i ran 12ga fibercore copperwire uninterupted from the amp to the speakers, and 8ga copper strand about a foot and a half from the amp to the sub. Its monster wire, but i got all my wire for dirt cheap when the radio shack near me went outa business.

all of it is ran off a 6channel jbl.

 

eventually ill run a set of coax focal 165c1s in the rear speaker locations, but when i do that ill be upgrading my amp. So basicly in a few years when i can afford to finish all my other jobs.

Damn son, you are an animal!!!! Full Tilt Boogie!!!! I like the way you think. Well hell, let me show you some of my toys then. i did pro sound through the 80's. Well you can guess what my home system looks like. LOL Over the top, WAY over the top.

 

The hatch has a 750w system in it - tri-amped, dual 12" subs, 6x9 tri-axials & 6" co-axials. Audiobahn 3-way crossover and Alpine parametric eq. Pioneer head unit. But that's just for some car tunes.

 

The home system - yeah the home system - right now it's prototyped in the den. Original plan was to have an HT setup and a separate 2 channel setup. I finally decided to integrate it into one system. You may not be familiar with vintage audio, but here goes anyway. The 2 channel components of the system will be active auad amped with DBX Drive racks x2. I found a Phase Linear Dual-500 amp on eBay and yes that's where the online handle comes from. That will be the low end amp driving 4 x JBL 2245 18's. Rated very conservatively at 800w RMS per channel into a 4 ohm load. Low mids will be a Carver TFM-35x driving 4 x JBL 2206 12's. HIgh mids, a Phase Linear model 300 driving a pair of JBL 2482 phenolic 2" compression drivers on the back of a pair of JBL 2390 horn/lens. Ultra highs will be a Carver TFM-6CB driving 4 s JBL 2404 bi-radial tweeters. Processing will be a Ashly PQX 572 parametric eq and Ashly CL52E compressor/limiter. For the HT part, add most of what's in the rack pictured below. A Carver AV-705 for the center and rears, Adcom 250w 4ch amp that drives 7 pairs of bookshelf size speakers thoughout the house and shop - both are pictured in the rack below.

 

Here's a couple of pics of the curent HT setup that's prototyped in my den:

 

[redneck]

my systems is a set of focal 165a1s in the doors and a focal 27v1 11" sub in the trunk.

 

For the doors i ran 12ga fibercore copperwire uninterupted from the amp to the speakers, and 8ga copper strand about a foot and a half from the amp to the sub. Its monster wire, but i got all my wire for dirt cheap when the radio shack near me went outa business.

all of it is ran off a 6channel jbl.

 

eventually ill run a set of coax focal 165c1s in the rear speaker locations, but when i do that ill be upgrading my amp. So basicly in a few years when i can afford to finish all my other jobs.

 

 

ur gunna have to help me make my stero system like urs.

 

dual 500 all i got to say is DAMN!!.....