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Major Issue with my del sol


martin4o2005

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So i got my 1994 del sol s auto. I didn't drive it for 2 days and on the nxt when i tried it would start, so i am not a professional and really kinda new with del sols, common sense i thought it was a BAD battery, so i went to auto-zone the guy recharged the battery test it and said it should work 100%. I went home immediately put it in the car and it started up from the first time and i drove it, the next day i drove it again for 10 miles. On next day it wasn't driven and the day after that guess what same thing, car would not start. If anybody any suggestions at all are welcome, but all i know something is eating my electrical power, its not a bad battery, i really don't have any idea so any help at all is welcome. I really want to fix this issue i just can't stand it.

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did you JUST purchase this car?

 

sounds like the battery does have a bad cell or there is a drain somewhere on the system which could be a relay/circuit/fuse/crossed wire etc

 

or as preston said it could be corrosion on the terminals or a bad battery cable

 

 

are there any other symptoms? while driving do all accersories and lights work? has anything been worked on lately?

 

 

we really need more info before we can say anything

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just recharged the battery today again and now its running but i am not risking it so i just put the battery out at night and will probably sell it too much electrical problems one of the worst del sols i' ve seen

 

Give it to me!:D

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Problem is IDK which relay to replace.

 

 

well thats not a CAN DO! attitude

 

 

get a haynes manual and see which relay is hooked up to the problems your having

 

or just get a voltmeter and check them

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There my be a problem with the alternator not charging enough. Easy thing to check with a voltmeter. Check the battery first. put the positive probe of the volt meter directly on the positve post of the battery (Not the cable). then put the negative probe on the negative post (again not the cable). read voltage with vehicle off. Now as long as you have around 12v, move the negative probe to the negative cable where it connects to the vehicle. If there is a major change in voltage then i would suspect a bad battery cable or terminal. Now if that all checks out, start the car and test the positive and negative posts of the battery. With the vehicle on the battery should read around 14v. This will tell you if alternator is charging. Also while the car is running another thing you can try is disconnecting the positive cable, the car should stay running. Once the car is started the alternator should do enough to run the car with out the battery.

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i didnt read past the first line of that paragraph

 

the alternator has nothing to do with STARTING the car.. if it was the alternator the car would have died while driving it.. not drive perfect the whole time and then not crank up

 

also he said the windows were acting up.. that would be a relay.. could be a battery issue also.. if it was the alternator ALL the accesories would be messing up.. instrument gauge would go screwy along with the radio and the lights etc

 

 

 

going by what the OP has said it is a relay or battery issue

 

but the diagnosis can only be as good as the symptoms described and he didnt give too much to work with

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i didnt read past the first line of that paragraph

 

the alternator has nothing to do with STARTING the car.. if it was the alternator the car would have died while driving it.. not drive perfect the whole time and then not crank up

 

also he said the windows were acting up.. that would be a relay.. could be a battery issue also.. if it was the alternator ALL the accesories would be messing up.. instrument gauge would go screwy along with the radio and the lights etc

 

 

 

going by what the OP has said it is a relay or battery issue

 

but the diagnosis can only be as good as the symptoms described and he didnt give too much to work with

 

I'm not trying to start fights, but i'm glad your all knowing and sure of yourself. Electrical can be tricky and testing the alternator could be an easy component to eliminate from the problem. A diode on the alternator going out could allow voltage lost back through the alternator, so testing it is still a valid test. How bout trying to add to the thread , and leave out trying to discredit others.

 

 

Now as far as the alternator. An alternator that is only charging at 10v or only charging sometimes, would allow the car to run for a while then the battery finaly would not have enough juice. Yes a complete alternator failure would cause other issues, but a partial working alternator could hide its self in a battery drain.

 

I think this is a slight chance, but its an easy test to rule out that component.

 

I do agree the windows are probably a relay issue, or a master switch issue.

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LOL

 

 

 

kinda sucks for you mr. 14 post man that you dont know a thing about me

 

 

the diodes become a one-way valve that will only allow current to pass in the same direction.

 

 

 

alternators are reliant on magnetic fields.. most common problem with alternator is the rotor thing in them messes up which means it isnt charging anything which means your car is going to die or at least the accesories will begin to cut out while driving.. AND he would have to FULLY charge the batiftery everytime he drove otherwise it would not work

 

my alternator has died on me and showed all common symptoms.. and i have also had a bad relay (the ac relay went bad) and was a constant drain on the battery.. so if it sat for more then a day it would kill the battery (just like the OP's post)

 

 

so going by READING and EXPERIENCE and what the OP said the symptoms were... yes im confindent I am correct (and/or preston and mike)

 

 

 

if it was the alternator going out it wouldnt be the windows DONT roll down they would roll down extremely slowy because the alternator wouldnt produce enough power to have them the headlights, taillights, radio, etc on also

 

 

dont be a douch new kid.. your cool for trying at least.. but with the OP's details it doesnt sound like an alternator.. could be becuase the OP did leave stuff out but i doubt it

 

 

 

and the OP hasnt posted in quite a while so this thread probably needs to be closed because the OP decided on selling the car anyway

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The thing is I am not lazy to try and see if its a relay its just that i am a high school student and i don;t have a voltmeter so i was suppose to bring the car to my automotive teacher and during class he could help me out but last 2 days he is no show his wife was pregnant so i guess its time, but really want to fix it so thanks for the help to delsolsweetie and the rest of u will try an test that relay by he end of the week and just making sure i got this right i shouldn't touch the alternator?

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for the symptoms you have stated it doesnt sound like the alternator.. its always a possibility it could be something to do WITH the alternator but it doesnt sound like it

 

 

when my alternator went out the car was turning over slowly for a few days and then i was driving home from school one day and all the gauges fell.. then the lights/radio go out.. then the car dies

 

 

when my relay was bad my blower motor would come on when the car was off and it would drain the battery.. with the windows not working and it draining the battery i believe it should be a relay in the fuse box located in the engine bay on the passenger side.. all the relays are the same.. if you get a manual for your car it has all the diagrams in the back and you can see which one is connected with the windows.. (the relay that went bad on mine was in the harness in the front part of the bay)

 

 

its probably a really easy fix.. it sounds more like relay then anything but still make sure all connections (all plugs, wires etc) are plugged in and not corroded.. this includes the battery terminals and cables and all the wires connected to the alternator... also check your grounds and make sure they are tight (they are just things bolted to the engine bay in various places)

 

Del sols are extrememly fun to drive and you'll love it if you can fix it.. they are pretty reliable also.. they just have their quarks

 

 

 

if you want to see if it is the relay without the voltmeter and are still waiting on ur auto teacher get the manual and try to figure out which relay it is.. pull out the relay and let the car sit.. if it is bad relay and its not in the car it wont drain the battery

 

tricky part is WHICH relay... if your lucky it'll be the obvious relay.. with my blower motor issue it wasnt that relay.. it was the ac relay.. but if we pulled the blower motor relay the battery didnt die. so until we tracked it down the real culprit we just left it out lol

 

 

oh and the relay is only like 20-30 dollars at your local auto store so hopefully it is just that

 

 

the manual states for the battery not holding a charge:

1-alternator drive belt loose or defective (just check you belt and make sure its tight.. a lost or missing belt wont turn the alternator which means it wont charge anything)

2-battery levels low

3-terminals lose or corroded (since youve have the battery checked out i wouldnt think it was this or #2)

4-alternator not charging (ive already said what they normally do when the alternator is bad and it doesnt sound like yours is doing this)

5-loose, broke, faulty wiring in charging circuit (where we said check all the wiring.. it'll be easy to see something broken or what not)

6-short in wiring (relay would do this)

7-internally defective battery (you said the guy said it was good.. unless he was stupid.. then it is your battery)

 

 

oh! check your fuses too.. doubt thats it but stranger things have happened lol and that will only take a few min.

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Thanks for all that information and I totally agree that del sols are very fun even if my is in bad condition well just like inside, and that it's the S series it's still accelerates pretty quick can't wait to get a b16 see how that feels, and yeah i am krazy about those cars , their light, very quick sporty looking, can do stuff on them bodykits and its a targa top what more can u want. Yeah again thanks forr all that help and those quick responses, i appreciate everything very much. I will do my best and will fix these window issue, and soon i might post pics so u guys can check it out.

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Thanks for all that information and I totally agree that del sols are very fun even if my is in bad condition well just like inside, and that it's the S series it's still accelerates pretty quick can't wait to get a b16 see how that feels, and yeah i am krazy about those cars , their light, very quick sporty looking, can do stuff on them bodykits and its a targa top what more can u want. Yeah again thanks forr all that help and those quick responses, i appreciate everything very much. I will do my best and will fix these window issue, and soon i might post pics so u guys can check it out.

 

o lord

 

 

 

i like you kid.. cause you like your car.. but we should talk about some things lol

 

first: b swaps are overrated IMO.. but if you really want to do it RIGHT to where you dont have a blown motor or one that runs like ass you need money and know how.. both of which you are short on right now (no offense).. my d has beat b series.. comes down to driver a lot more then car sometimes.. there is a guy in upstate where im moving that has a d16 w/ eagle rods and new pistions.. stock head etc.. ebay turbo i think.. and the tuners where hoping to get about 350-400hp out of it.. thats PLENTY for a FWD)... hondas were made to be reliable.. they can be made fast but it takes money.. most AVERAGE "fast" hondas run like 13-14's.. (im not talking about the crazy built/tuned ones guys.. but again we are talking about serious money for 11's or 12's and you run into serious problems with FWD and a lot of power.. there was a crazy built FWD VW at the track.. runs 13's.. cant hook worth a crap.. (was also beating the ls vtec honda btw))

 

anyway.. the supra im hopefully going to be buying soon for ~1k in good shape comes with 230 hp stock.. the b16 has like what 150? and the motor alone is going to be about 2k.. then you have tuning wiring etc.. mine also is made to be sporty unlike a honda.. hahahahah

 

point is: dont get caught up in the bseries and honda racing thing without doing research about other makes.. i know quite a few people who live for hondas but they know when something faster pulls up.. normally a nissan.. lol.. ALWAYS have respect for other peoples cars (unless they are douches of course then tell them to STFU)

 

 

keep it to the track also.. you really dont want to wreck your car.. lose your license.. possibly seriously injure or kill yourself or someone else.. and possibly f up the rest of your life for having a record

 

 

they are NOT light.. they are one of the heavier hondas made actually.. that targa comes with a lot of supports which adds weight.. and the cars were cheap so they used heavy steel not so much aluminum and magnesium

 

 

body kits angry.gif thats the quickest way to get called a ricer.. the 'clean' looks speaks a lot more about someones car and how they keep car of it.. most body kits are hard to get to fit right and end up messed up pretty quickly unless you spend money on good material ones.. now a nice LIP adds a lot to a car while keeping it clean and not destroying the aerodynamics of the car

 

 

 

if you need help with anything let us know

 

 

 

oh and just cause its a piece right now its okay.. mine looked like this when i first bought it:

DSCN4058.jpg

 

now its this:

DSCF1121-1.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

if you really want to see a complete 180 on a sol go look through the del sol part for prestons build thread (tallhammer)... hes done an insane amount of work on his

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Yeah your kinda right, but still a supra is is 240 stock but is like what 3000 lbs and then again they usually cost so much cause they are so rare in us and idk where u found the one ur getting but thats a good deal. Yeah for now iam going to stick with my d series cause the financial stuff is really forcing me, but i kinda disagree a delsol b16a2 160 hp with a turbo i wouldn't be surprised if it smokes a stock supra again depends on the driver, but supra used to be one of my favorite car before i fell in love with del sol, but again for the money its not really worth it i'd rather have s2000 my brother got one last year 2003 for $12,000 its 240 stock, little bet heavier than del sol 2800 lbs, or a wrx sti . OoO and by the way love your rims

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im getting an mk3.. its the generation before the one your thinking about lol

 

supra.jpg

 

ive found multiple mk3s for under 2k already

 

 

and the talk of a 160 hp beating a stock supra? if its an mk4 it wouldnt have a chance.. the mk4 comes with a TWIN turbo 2jz.. a 2j would eat a b alive.. and thats the crap im talking about that honda owners do.. they DONT KNOW what else is out there and assume their car is fast.. even after swapping a 160 hp b in your car it'll run MAYBE a 14.. MAYBE.. if its done right.. and a 14 aint fast.. at all.. a 2jz 1994 and up supra runs a 13.1 BONE STOCK.. so with like a tune and a couple tweaks its 12s all day if not faster

 

2jzs are the motors putting out 1400 hp all day after they get built.. mk3 are not as 'pretty' to most people but i can do the same swaps and have a slightly lighter but still heavy car.. and i think they are plenty sexy if done up right

 

 

and besides quarter mile numbers dont mean crap.. i want to do road course, auto cross, and drift.. most of which are dominated by higher hp RWD cars.. or AWD.. hondas compete but most are motor swapped and depending on the race that puts them in a catagory with other swapped cars which means the are not very competitive a lot of the time.. youll learn drag racing doesnt take much skill... street racers tend to suck cause they dont know how to launch on a prepped surface lol.. if you want to LEARN how to drive find a perforamance driving day at a real track and get in your car with an instructor

 

ill make you a deal actually.. if i get this mkiii i know a guy with an ls vtec del.. i will race him before i pull out the 7mgte and put in the 1jz.. stock motor.. and i will record it for you lol

 

 

and your del is pushing 3k pounds btw.. i know someone who weighed one with them in it and it was about 2800 i think.. so dont be so picky about weight otherwise you have the wrong car.. dont put so much thought into weight.. 100 lbs is roughly a tenth of a second... a cars performance has a lot more to do with the entire setup including brakes, suspension, motor, tire compound, etc

 

 

thankyou for the rim compliment.. used to have white ones but i bent it on a stupid hole

 

 

 

and i might seem kind of anti honda racing but ive seen any kind of motor in a honda you want.. k's b's d's etc.. and they just dont stack up to other cars made for racing (nissans, supras, etc).. im not saying it CANT be done but its just hard.. and the motors tend not to last as long

 

i actually had all the pieces for a k swap picked out for my del.. then all the pieces for a turbo d.. then i realized it wasnt worth it lol.. im all about bang for buck.. and i LOVE how a RWD handles... cant beat how a RWD feels kicking out in the back.. so fun

 

example: guy in class was trying to argue this exact convo with me and said he had a 300 something hp b series.. i asked what happened to it.. well he blew it up lol

 

 

 

my bf has this:

photo5.jpg

 

 

 

 

check out d-series.org and turbod16.com.... they have some insane builds with nice power on them.. might make you appreciate your d more lol

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ill be flat out honest with you. a b series will need close to 300+ hp to take supra. hands down. this is for a few reasons. one is the honda will spin under boost of hard acceleration. once you stop spinning youll need to play catch up. and even with 300hp you wont do it. ive ridden in turbo D's, swapped all motor h22 civics, turbo gsr civics, and k swapped civics, and a turbo K. the only ones that came close to a supra was the turbo GSR and K24. thats just how it is. im not raggin on ya or anything so dont take it the wrong way. i learned the hard way too.

 

a b16 in a del sol isnt all that fast either. ive nearly taken a few out in my stock d16 hatch, thats all due to weight. a eg hatch weights 2200lbs(roughly).

 

if your money tight then just save money. youll need it. youll want to build or swap badly but resist until you get money built up to fall back on. after you get all the money you need, then decide if its something you want to do. you may find out the del sol isnt for you in the end.

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thats coming from a guy in the middle of b16 swap also

 

 

or youll find out the del is an AMAZINGLY fun DD.. and you want a better platform for a race car

 

 

i believe you shouldnt race your DD much.. i play with mine but not to seriously.. having two cars is fun anyway

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