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Best LightWeight Flywheel


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Does ACT make a street flywheel that light? Pretty sure they use forgings and not castings too. One thing to keep in mind is that you should double check what kind of clutch disk material should be used. Organo-metalic vs ceramic medias are not always compatible with the same metals. For a street car I would surely think it's an organic friction material.

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it is organic. but their stage 2 clutch is carbon kevlar. and is designed to be a direct oem replacement. that act clutch is forged. its chromoly steel so its pretty much compatible with all new flywheels

 

btw thats what that flywheel is. the act streetlite

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it is organic. but their stage 2 clutch is carbon kevlar. and is designed to be a direct oem replacement. that act clutch is forged. its chromoly steel so its pretty much compatible with all new flywheels

 

btw thats what that flywheel is. the act streetlite

 

 

 

Carbon/kevlar isn't too much harder than organic and pretty much has the same wear properties against steel friction surfaces....virtually none. Really that means you shouldn't have to resurface a flywheel when the clutch wears out. Really don't think spending extra money on the basis of weight savings vs. driveability would be the choice I'd make. Which favors the ACT Streetlite as it's not some sub-10lb disk that'll have you chatter the clutch everytime to have to go from a stop. I think what you'll really notice is that how much better everyday driving is with a quality, well balanced (and installed) flywheel/clutch setup is. People focus on the having the lightest weight possible but really the engine isn't that concerned with it (it revs just fine with the stock cast iron piece too) as much as it is concerned with the dynamic imbalances. Aftermarket units, of reputable brands, are generally much better balanced so you'd actually have performance gains even if they weighed as much as the stock pieces.

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Kevlar doesn't wear (the friction disc itself). When it starts to slip, all you have to do is sandblast it and you're good to go. It's a good choice for smooth engagement and longevity. Carbon clutches last an extremely long time before they wear out, though they aren't great for daily driving as you need a heavy pressure plate (clamping force, not actual weight) to keep it from slipping on engagement (it needs heat before it grabs, this is why high powered drag cars use it). 3/4/6 puck will only cause chatter if the friction material isn't correct (i.e. ACT puck clutches chatter, Action puck clutches do not). Use a 3/4/6 puck kevlar clutch and there won't be any chatter regardless of the manufacturer. I run the Fidanza 7lb flywheel and Action 1MD (6-puck unsprung) in my daily/track car, but will be going with a lighter setup for my track car. If you have a light pressure plate and a heavy clutch, it will grind with high RPM shifts even if the trans is brand new. That is why drag cars and high RPM track cars use the lightest clutch possible.

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Lightest clutch or lightest flywheel? I know they certainly don't always look for a light clutch (generally impossible with race-grade multi-plate setups) and the weight of the flywheel depends on application as the lightest doesn't strictly mean the best here either. Oh, and kevlar composite friction materials do wear out. They have a very long service life in light duty/mild performance setups but in heavy duty applications they will wear out. They were originally developed for heavy duty trucks years ago when organics wore out too quickly and sintered metals caused damage to other parts. Most organic clutches will last well past 100k miles these days and kevlar/carbon types last even longer...but it does wear. As for the 3/4/6 puck plates (old technology btw) they are chatter prone by nature but not only because of materials involved but also because of just how they are designed. And saying it's due to brand vs. brand is also wrong...way too many variables to make that conclusion. High powered drag cars (relative to my terms I guess) do NOT use kevlar/carbon friction material in the clutch. They used sintered iron/bronze/ceramic composites because they are the most aggressive and handle the extreme loads and heat. A high powered drag car isn't using a softer material unless the owner doesn't like winning, drives his car on the street a lot, or really likes changing clutches.

 

 

Del:

You might get away with a very light flywheel and a somewhat aggressive clutch without chatter simply by having enough gear to work with and light enough tire/wheel package. That is more of an exception compared to the rule though.

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Exedy OEM clutch, with 7lb flywheel (Firdenza)( sp) had in 2 cars, and like I have said shifted smoother to me than same clutch with OE fly wheel. Zero chatter, smoother upshifts, and no problems what so ever on take offs. Going to go same route when and if I replace the clutch in current Del Sol, when and if I do a B-swap. As far as wheel\ tires making a difference, I noticed no difference as far as clutch performance going from stock 14's, to big ugly heavy asssed 17's, back down to a decent weight 16.

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Fidanza hands down. One of the lightest you can get for a standard clutch and the friction pad is replaceable.

 

well look who decided to get back on. i have heard to stay away from two piece flywheels though. is this true?

b!tch! (directed to david)

 

 

 

 

tranny god agrees with me and mike

 

ill tickle you until you piss your pants missie. :p

 

 

again.. with my 7lb flywheel i have NO problems.. paired with an exxedy i have virtually no wear... no slippage.. no chatter.. etc

 

well ill be getting a F1 stage 2 pressure plate and flywheel. it uses carbon kevlar on the clutch disc. its the full disc, not some 3/4/6 puck junk

Kevlar doesn't wear (the friction disc itself). When it starts to slip, all you have to do is sandblast it and you're good to go. It's a good choice for smooth engagement and longevity. Carbon clutches last an extremely long time before they wear out, though they aren't great for daily driving as you need a heavy pressure plate (clamping force, not actual weight) to keep it from slipping on engagement (it needs heat before it grabs, this is why high powered drag cars use it). 3/4/6 puck will only cause chatter if the friction material isn't correct (i.e. ACT puck clutches chatter, Action puck clutches do not). Use a 3/4/6 puck kevlar clutch and there won't be any chatter regardless of the manufacturer. I run the Fidanza 7lb flywheel and Action 1MD (6-puck unsprung) in my daily/track car, but will be going with a lighter setup for my track car. If you have a light pressure plate and a heavy clutch, it will grind with high RPM shifts even if the trans is brand new. That is why drag cars and high RPM track cars use the lightest clutch possible.

 

i was trying to stay away from the 3/4 puck discs, there are a lot of people with broken springs and constant slipping after 5000 miles.

 

 

so instead of an ACT flywheel...go with finanza? lol jesus i hate clutch setups. aluminum or chromoly steel?

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well look who decided to get back on. i have heard to stay away from two piece flywheels though. is this true?

 

 

Wouldn't be my choice in a daily driver. I don't care who makes it but they are RARELY machined as true as solid plates. Also Fidanza doesn't put a finish mill on its inserts so you so have to go through a break-in procedure. I think you would be fine with the ACT solid flywheel especially if it's cheaper. The whole reason 2-piece flywheels came around was because racers could adapt friction surfaces to track conditions and car setups. Seems like a needless expense IMO. Another thing to think about is the fact that ACT uses 4130 Cro-Mo steel while Fidanza uses a typical medium carbon steel as the friction surface. Medium carbon steel would be softer and act a bit more aggressively vs the same clutch material. 4130 is generally considerably harder and would be more forgiving. Have to think about how you'll be driving this car, not really much sense spending extra money on race-grade parts for the extra capacity you'd never use... :happy: Can't tell you how many Mustang guys I know put some $$$ stage 3 clutch setup in their street car when a $ Ford HD kit would have been perfectly fine.

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yeah im trying to stay with the chromoly steel. dont want anything cheap. honda doesnt offer a reasonably clutch upgrade(not paying $680, without flywheel). i think ill just stick with what i have chosen. an ACT flywheel, and exedy stage 2 clutch kit.

 

 

what abotu something like THIS instead of the ACT flywheel?

 

and match it with THIS clutch kit?

 

they would both be Completion Clutch brand. and it seems like a reaosnable price

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Looks ok. What bothers me is that Competition doesn't sell that flywheel and clutch package together on their site. They seem to think the standard LIGHT flywheel is better suited with that clutch kit (12# flywheel vs 9#) I'm not a big fan of drilled out assemblies though, makes them more warp prone. Everything else is good and it's SFI 1.5 (power adder spec). Have you checked into RAM clutches yet? Hope you have a notepad and are writing down all the specs you can on each setup.

 

 

Edit: Nevermind RAM...don't make anything for imports... :happy:

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im writing it all down in a notebook. i think ill get that competition flywheel and the exedy clutch setup. i went a got my scatter shield tonight(because the guy forgot it the last time). and he runs that exact set up in his b16. i drove it, its flawless. no chatter, no stalls, nothing. he has had it since '06 and its been through 5 setups. he had videos an dpics on his iphone lol

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I do have slight chatter. That is normal though. I'm glad mine isn't too light honestly. Competition Clutch is a good brand though, good choice there padawan.

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