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Wiring problem?


bigredrage

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had same issue with old alternator but when removed tests as being fine. When on car only gettin 12v from battery so regulator not getting power to battery. Could it be something between alt and battery? wiring? Car goes for a while till battery low then guagues die, then cannot accelerate and car dies because battery empty. Alternator does not charge it. Charge battery back up can drive 1-3 days until dies. Any suggestions appreciated, alternator and battery are good, something else is wrong and I dont have $1,000 to take it to a tech. 1996 honda accord vtech 4 cyl.

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Getting your battery and alternator checked it useless. You should be getting no less then 10.4V between the terminals unpon cranking and starting. You can still have the 12+ volts on the battery when the car is sitting, but when it is cranking the voltage will drop, and if it drops to low then the battery is bad.

 

That being said, it appears that you have a bad alternator... and possibly a crappy battery to boot. Test them all you want, but I would not chase your tail...

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The battery is brand new and the brand new alternator + the old alternator both test fine OFF the car. Once on the car the alternators show "bad regulator". If it only shows that on the car I am assuming it is something BETWEEN the alt and the battery. Dont know what though, that is where my question lies.

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Fine. Then try replacing the under hood fues panel with one from another car with the same set-up. The reason that I mention this is on your generation car the under hood fuse panal has a built in ELDU (electrical load detection unit) and if that malfunctions then it wont charge the battery. I would try a known used good one before spending any money on a new one though...

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'Turtlehead' is right, unless you have a loose connection, i.e. a break somewhere in the wiring from either the Alternator to the Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box or the Engine Control Unit (ECU) then you have either a bad Electric Load Detector (ELD) or Alternator; either of which will kill your battery, no matter how new it is, it will be no good after being repeatedly and completely discharged unless you failed to mention you picked up a marine duty deep-cycle battery.

 

And an easy test for the ELD is to unplug it and see if the Alternator starts running at full output; caution: do not do this for long it puts a strain on the charging system. The ELD is the yellowish-white plug next to the two large cables going into the Under-hood Fuse/Relay Box. The ELD has three wires going into it, this is the component and you want to loosen the connection while the car is off and then pull it the rest of the way (carefully!!) after the car is started. DO NOT attempt the reconnect it with the car running, turn the car off and then reconnect it after the test is done. CAUTION: those two large wires right next the ELD connection are LIVE WIRES while the car is running and while it is off, any tools or metal jewelry can ARC 80-100 AMPS OF DC VOLTAGE to your body.

 

Be careful and let us know what you find.

 

 

 

Edit: I have heard of people changing an alternator and either damaging the green connector or failing to re-connect the alternator properly. Double check everything you touched, then test the ELD.

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  • 2 weeks later...

friend of mine had this problem with his 94 accord ex and we did some research not to sure about if u want to half ass stuff mind my french but the black with the yellow tracer wire coming from the plug for the alt try splicing a wire into it and hook it to something tht has power only with the ign. on i.e. ignition coil or something he has it hooked to his power windows right where the fuse is and it has been working ever since i can almost garantee this will fix your problem

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