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LS Vtec questions

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ok so i put lsvtec into the search and went through all 8 pages and found nothing to answer my few questions. even the stick at the top didnt answer them lol. so here are my questions


i just started my lsvtec build today. picked up the type r oil pump,pickup, waterpump, pr3 rods, and p30 pistons all with 30K on them. they are in great shape. ill be getting a entire b18a1(1993) long block for $100 with spun rod bearing. i just had a few questions after reading your old lsvtec build thread...(this is going in my 92 d16z6 hatch)


i plan on running a b16 head and hopefully a type r intake manifold. so with that the p30's on ls rods should net me around 12:1 compression? that seems a bit high for an everyday driver with reliability in mind. i have the pr3 rods on them now(came like that). is there a way to lower compression such as using the pr3 rods? or is that possible when using an LS crank? if not then what rods should i use?


RINGS- should i get hastings rings or just go oem?

Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reguator- should i get one or get better injectors?


ECU-what ecu should i use?


STUPID QUESTION- should i get a tune after doing the swap? seeing as there is no actual ecu for a Frankenstein. or can i just unplug the battery to reset the ecu? if so what kind of tune?


recommendations for a clutch/flywheel set up?


coilovers or OEM B series suspension?


im sure ill have more questions after this. but it would eb greatly appreciated if you could help me out. im shooting for 200WHP maybe 220's with cams and some other goodies. whatever is cheap is best for me, as long as its relaible.



DO NOT ANSWER IF YOU DONT HAVE THE ABSOLUTE CORRECT ANSWER. i dont have money to just throw away and time to waste.


thanks in advance

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if the b18 spun a bearing , the crank is probably toast. youl need to bring your block and pistons and rods to a machine shop , have them ok them for use , and check your bores make sure you can still run a std bore piston , if not youl need oversize pistons and a bore. oem rings are fine. youl be fine for reliability. you have to use ls rods. or aftermarket. stock fuel system is fine , no change to change nothing there. you will need either a chipped ecu or s300. it needs to be tuned 100%.

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OH BTW: im only planning to rev up to somewhere between 7200-7500rpm. just for reliability

ok thanks for replying. ive bee learning more and more each day about all this.


its $281 for a brand new crank so idk. might go that route if the crank is toast. im hoping that he is telling the truth and it is a rod bearing and not a spun main. cause if i open that thing up and the journal is toasted im gonna be pissed.

if all else fails ill sell the head for what i can get out of it and just search some more.


i think ill just use my p28 and have it chipped. that should save some cost. i know the ls rods and p30 pistons should put me around 12:1 compression with a obd1 b16 head. it seems a little high for my liking, is there a way to lower the compression a bit? and no im not stacking head gaskets.


so thats a no on the fuel pressure regulator? i heard that im supposed use one when using stock fuel system and injectors


any advice for getting a good set of adjustable cam gears? seeing as the timing is gonna be caput when i first get it done.


should i use acl bearings or oem?


motor mounts- i know i have to use b series mounts and the reat t bracket but im a little confused. when i get the b series mounts, do i use my inserts in the mounts or just use the stock b series mounts themselves?


also for breaking in the motor i found this on H-T(yea hi know lol). should i break themotor in with a wideband or just take it to the dyno and have them do it?


Initial startup process for new cylinders/rings:

Fill the motor up with 30W non detergent oil (quality does not matter). Just buy the cheapest you can find. Also, pick up the cheapest oil filter you can find (usually Fram). Check the dipstick periodically to see when the oil pan is full. Try not to fill higher than the upper most dot on the dip stick. It should be around 4 quarts (remember, you need a little extra oil for the vtec oil line).

Fill the motor with a 50/50 mixture of coolant to water. Believe it or not, the more water this mixture has, the cooler the engine will run. But, you need antifreeze in colder climates to prevent coolant freeze/expansion, as well as to prevent the water pump and sleeves from corroding.

Now, disconnect the ecu and turn the motor over for roughly 30 seconds to build up oil pressure. This is the easiest way to ensure you will not be injecting fuel and spark into the cylinders. Reinstall the ecu you will be using.

Fire the motor up and check for leaks. Make sure the oil pressure light extinguishes immediately. If not, turn the car off and troubleshoot. Let the car reach full operating temperature. Immediately begin to tune the car for a 14.1-15.1 AFR. The closer to 14.7:1 the better. That's it. For the rest of the tuning, I'd suggest a street tune first then tune on the dyno, but every tuner has his/her own ways.

Oil changing schedule:

Initial - 30w non detergent

after 20 miles - 30w non detergent

after 100 miles - your favorite non-syn

after 500 miles - your favorite non-syn

after 1000 miles - your favorite non-syn/synthetic


You should stop seeing metal shavings in the oil after the 100 mile oil change. I strongly recommend using a magnetic oil drain plug for freshly built motors. You don't want all those shavings being pumped to the bearings, cams, or splashing on the cylinder walls...bad. Don't worry though, they will be there, no matter how close the clearances are.


Now for the break in, try to vary the revs as much as possible, with alot of short blasts. It is very important that you let the engine "brake" itself by just letting off the throttle and letting the vehicle slow down on it's own, while in gear. This creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles, and then proceed to beat the crap out of the motor, up to it's maximum rev range, as long as it is tuned accordingly. As long as the bearings are within spec and the rod bolts were torqued correctly, there is NOTHING to worry about.


I guarantee you WILL NOT burn oil using this break in method. If you do, you probably have leaky valve seals or bad rings/cylinder hone.

Edited by SpeedDemon
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actually, it is. What other modification can you do that adds 90hp for $700? That is an absolute bargain.


lets look at a couple things I have done: exhaust $350, high flow cat $200, header $150. What is my net hp gain for spending $700? Probably 10 at most, if that.

Edited by Xeryon
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yeah but that doesnt count the cost of buying a transmission and mounts.


idc im going to actually make money off of the parts i just bought.


pistons/rods: paid 80, getting 100 on monday

oil pump and water pump: paid 70, getting 80. 95 if he takes the pickup for the oil too.

header: idk

tail lights that mike gave me: paid 14, getting 30 lol

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i am. but in my case i just cant see spending 700 on JUST a tune. that doesnt count the 1500-1600 ill spend for parts and such. that still doesnt include the $200-$300 for a new clutch. so if i do anything ill turbo the D.


i could easily piece together a turbo kit for $500 in ohio.

$250 for rods

$100 for pistons.

$200 clutch kit

$450 tune(already called around)

that alone could easily net me 300hp.

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i called 7 places. every one of them said its 4 hours minimum. plus the chipping and break in process. idk not really too concerned about itnow. im going to make money off of the parts i just bought. and already have buyers for everything

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