sammybammy Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I currently drive a 1999 Grand am GT. Been a great car to me and just a simply daily driver not trying to be fast or anything of that matter. current mods are as follows Exterior 18x8 Eagle 077's Black housing headlights 8k HID's Interior A-pillar gauges Custom switch panel w/dimming backlit l.e.d's System Alpine D-300 touchscreen, ipod, nav w/pac tr-7 JL audio 6.5 XR components up front stock rear Alpine MRD-M1005 amp 2 12" JL audio 12w3v2's in HO wedge box running 500rms at 4 ohm load Underhood Simply "stage 3" racing intake Old pic but the gauges are still there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shanebot90 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 nice car, i like it. just don't like the gauges too much. a bit too much crap going on in the interior, lol. Very clean car though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammybammy Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 nice car, i like it. just don't like the gauges too much. a bit too much crap going on in the interior, lol. Very clean car though thanks..i love gauges and i just wanted to make them simple and keep it matching the stock gauges and they back light perfect and i'm happy with them. and i try to keep my interior as clean and simple as possible. thanks for the honesty and the compliment tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedDemon Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 more info on your car the better. i like the guages though, very stock technological look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammybammy Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 more info on your car the better. i like the guages though, very stock technological look 99 GAGT 118xxx miles 3.4 (3400) LA1 V6 4 wheel disc brakes stock dual exhaust sunroof pretty basic car. but runs very well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pballer2005 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 ur intake has a light? car is clean and all but i has random question (not trying to be rude just curious). why a honda forum with a pontiac? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammybammy Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 ur intake has a light? car is clean and all but i has random question (not trying to be rude just curious). why a honda forum with a pontiac? after taking a physics class i became interested in subtle lighting around the car....the switch is for the small T1 l.e.d's that i will be putting near the radiator to have a little lighting, but nothing much. I came here because i'm looking for a project car that i can buy and learn some more about boosting and i'm looking to get an early to mid 90's honda that is in rough shape but mechanically sound (if tht makes sense) and just have fun with it. thanks for the compliment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Welcome to the forums man. I like how you setup your switches. How did you do the text for that? btw i have your avatar poster in my room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shanebot90 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 you can buy my civic... 112k miles, body is in great shape, great mechanical condition. just needs work on the interior. looks like you have a nack for making interiors nice anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammybammy Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Welcome to the forums man. I like how you setup your switches. How did you do the text for that? btw i have your avatar poster in my room. here is the write up i made (write up was made for www.gaownersclub.com and grandamgt.com) better than me explaining it i'll copy it of my forum :lol: I have received a lot of questions about a switch panel I made for my '99 GAGT. This isn't a step by step but it should show you what went into building this and will hopefully guide you if you choose to build one your self. Here is a list of things you need: - Radio Trim Bezel (with Remote Cassette Player) - Remote Cassette Player (from either a Grand Am or possibly Grand Prix) - 2 nut-plates and 2 screws for the dash What I used: - 7 T1 3/4 Blue LEDs with 7 475 ohm resistors (Run each resistor in series with each LED but run each string in parallel) - 9 pin Molex connector and plug from Radioshack - 5 Blue LED rocker switches - Misc terminals and wire - Handful of 4-40 screws, washers, nuts, Loctitie, etc... Build the switch box: NOTE: I recommend using Loctite or lock washers to mount the brackets so the will not shake loose. Trust me, they will. You can use just the box to hold wiring and switches if you wish. I got a little more creative and decided to back light my panel. You need to modify the cassette housing by removing all the guts. Save the two side brackets and the rear circuit board that connects from one side to the other with the tabs and a screw (you will see what I mean). Attach the two side brackets to the housing (You may need to create your own holes). You need to make some kind of circuit board or rig something up to hold your LEDs. I made an actual circuit board that I soldered 7 red LEDs to (Yes the panel lights up). You can use the Rear PCB for a template to make your own. If you are lucky enough to have access to a PCB Router than you can make you own like me or drill some holes in plastic, use epoxy, solder wires, etc.. what ever you need to use. Keep in mind that you will need to run wires to the switches so do not place the LEDs where a shadow can be made from the routed wires. Build the cover plate: There are many options. Pick what works for you. I am a little more fortunate where I work and I have access to lasers. I used a 1/8" thick piece of clear acrylic. I cut it out to match the opening on the cassette player as well as the rectangular openings for the switches. The 1/8" seems to be the perfect size to fill the gap between the housing and the trim bezel when installed. I then sand blasted the front face of the panel. Then I painted it with a few coats of White paint and then a few coats of Black paint. This builds a thickness to the paint for lasing. After the paint cured I laser etched the legend I created to exposed the white paint. This way when you shine the light on the back of the panel the white paint will shine which ever color you chose for backlight. Also, the White on Black makes it stand out during the day. You could get fancy with airbrushing on the white or a different top color. Assembly of Box: Attach all the switches to the cover plate before installing the wiring. If you use Spade terminals rather than soldering the wires you can disassemble the front panel if you need to. Connect the wires from the switches to the connector on the back of the housing (I made a small panel to hold the Molex connector to the housing. This makes the Box a plug and play item). If you choose to back light your cover plate you can have a 2 pin connector on the housing as well. You need a 12V source and GND. For a 12V I used the dimming line for the original backlight in the factory harness (brown wire). This taps into the cars circuit so you can not only turn the backlight on when you turn on you head lights. But, you can also dim the LEDs the same as the whole dash. Pretty slick ? Depending on which LEDs you use you may want to adjust the current. I used 6000 mcd T1 3/4 LEDs with 475 ohm resistors. This worked fairly well for the brightness but my LEDs are red. Try one value of resistor and see what it looks like. If you don’t like the brightness change the resistance. Remember, LEDs are current driven. Based on Color the brightness may not match perfectly depending on the resistor. Trial and error or pick something and get used to it. When you are all done people swear it is factory. Ha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammybammy Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 you can buy my civic... 112k miles, body is in great shape, great mechanical condition. just needs work on the interior. looks like you have a nack for making interiors nice anyways haha not yet good sir....still need the money to start my project. i've always a 91-93 accord and to turbo or b or k series swap, but i have no idea just yet what i really want so i'm here to do research and get your guys help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airjordan223 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 thats pretty awesome man. whered you get your hands on a laser etcher? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diablo2dusk Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 nice custom work.....definately not digging the guages though, as seeing your not boosted or have extensive work to need a A/F or OP. but its nice overall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpeedDemon Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 99 GAGT118xxx miles 3.4 (3400) LA1 V6 4 wheel disc brakes stock dual exhaust sunroof pretty basic car. but runs very well no by info i meant while your driving the car lol. the more you know about whats going on the better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
true-bluecb7 Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 i've always a 91-93 accord and to turbo or b or k series swap, but i have no idea just yet what i really want so i'm here to do research and get your guys help. Don't do B-series. You're downgrading with that idea. K-series, only two known people has done it... it's quite expensive. H-series for now is the easier route. You know who to talk to for the CB here and at Modcom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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