cold start rough idle until warm

[cmiller11]

Hello!

2007 civic coupe, automatic. When cold, or sitting overnight only, vehicle starts up fine, however has rough idle, loud exhaust vibration sounds in interior, is worse in reverse backing out of driveway. Symptoms totally disappear after vehicle warms up.

6 visits to the shop and still unable to diagnose or repair. They state they have checked the forums.

Has been going on for 4-5 weeks.

 

Also noticed this change after a trip to an 8000 ft elevation. Trouble began the following day.

 

It has been on machine for diagnostic codes, also had computer wiped and downloaded updated software.

Mechanic last stated, lets try motor mounts. BUT - motor mounts are not temperature sensitive.

 

To elaborate on vibration sounds in the interior, it's almost as if I have a mod exhaust system. But I do not.

 

Any ideas?

 

Has 51k.

[SpeedDemon]

try changing the oil. going to high elevation usually results in lower temperatures and less air. its just an idea. but never hurts.

[cmiller11]

try changing the oil. going to high elevation usually results in lower temperatures and less air. its just an idea. but never hurts.

 

 

Sorry should have mentioned that I suppose. Oil has been changed 2 weeks ago, went with a high mileage syn blend.

[xxhrdcr4lifexx]

have you tuned your car sense you moved? also if its a fuel injected motor run seafoam through the f/i system its self (take your brake booster vacuum hose off and grab a funnel or a cup or something and slowly let the seafoam into the hose. the car must be running while you do this. only use about 1/4 of the can on the f/i and poor the rest into a full gas tank. by doing this your cleaning any carbon build up in the motor and injectors. its going to make your car smoke prty bad, itll be white smoke prob last about 2-5 min(you must keep a constant idle of 2-3k rpm) for it to work properly.

 

that will usually cure the rough idle issue, but if it doesnt look into getting new o2 sensors, possibly clean the egr ports, clean your iacv usally will smooth out idle problems...

Edited September 25, 2009 by xxhrdcr4lifexx

[mpearce1974]

have you tuned your car sense you moved? also if its a fuel injected motor run seafoam through the f/i system its self (take your brake booster vacuum hose off and grab a funnel or a cup or something and slowly let the seafoam into the hose. the car must be running while you do this. only use about 1/4 of the can on the f/i and poor the rest into a full gas tank. by doing this your cleaning any carbon build up in the motor and injectors. its going to make your car smoke prty bad, itll be white smoke prob last about 2-5 min(you must keep a constant idle of 2-3k rpm) for it to work properly.

 

that will usually cure the rough idle issue, but if it doesnt look into getting new o2 sensors, possibly clean the egr ports, clean your iacv usally will smooth out idle problems...

 

Or you could actually just in sert hosinto seafoam, then once it starts to bog down on you pull it out and repeat!

[xxhrdcr4lifexx]

this is true, but the hose is uaually to big to fit into the top of the can so i use a funnel or a cup

[EngineEcology]

Has anyone looked at your catalytic converter or your mufflers? This is many times the cause of an exhaust rattle. This can also cause the rough idle by blocking the exhaust. Either of these could have been caused by the elevation/temp change...

Edited September 30, 2009 by EngineEcology

[cmiller11]

Any special instructions on cleaning the egr? Not familiar with can and can not do with that part.

Thanks, your information is great help.

 

 

 

have you tuned your car sense you moved? also if its a fuel injected motor run seafoam through the f/i system its self (take your brake booster vacuum hose off and grab a funnel or a cup or something and slowly let the seafoam into the hose. the car must be running while you do this. only use about 1/4 of the can on the f/i and poor the rest into a full gas tank. by doing this your cleaning any carbon build up in the motor and injectors. its going to make your car smoke prty bad, itll be white smoke prob last about 2-5 min(you must keep a constant idle of 2-3k rpm) for it to work properly.

 

that will usually cure the rough idle issue, but if it doesnt look into getting new o2 sensors, possibly clean the egr ports, clean your iacv usally will smooth out idle problems...

[cmiller11]

I will definitely check that out! I told the service manager more than 3 times, I felt their was blockage in the exhaust as when it occurred the exhaust coming out just didn't have normal pressure at all, it was very weak.

 

He looked at me like I was nuts.

I knew better.

 

 

 

Has anyone looked at your catalytic converter or your mufflers? This is many times the cause of an exhaust rattle. This can also cause the rough idle by blocking the exhaust. Either of these could have been caused by the elevation/temp change...

[xxhrdcr4lifexx]

Any special instructions on cleaning the egr? Not familiar with can and can not do with that part.

Thanks, your information is great help.

 

just unbolt it and spray brake parts cleaner and use a small pipe cleaner/brush (used for small holes, tight little places, etc). stuff should only cost less than $10 and let it dry completely and then bolt it back on and try her out

[cmiller11]

I feel like such a dumbass, I have searched the engine & internet over and cannot locate the iacv for this model,year. any idea's?

bought seafoam today and brake cleaner got the egr ports cleaned up nice.

 

tried to buy a manual for it and they told me one hasn't been made yet. not sure if that is true because they also told me they didn't sell seafoam and viola there it was on the shelf.

 

 

 

just unbolt it and spray brake parts cleaner and use a small pipe cleaner/brush (used for small holes, tight little places, etc). stuff should only cost less than $10 and let it dry completely and then bolt it back on and try her out

[cmiller11]

I'm getting so frustrated. I'm not a mechanic but i'm not an idiot either. I feel completely comfortable doing these tips/tricks.

BUT I CANT FIND A SUITABLE VACUUM HOSE. Have spent almost all day on this and CANNOT find the brake booster vacuum hose or the iacv, beginning to think there is no IACV on this year make model.. The hose I just disconnected had BLUE fluid in it. So I stopped what I was doing.

 

Any more suggestions? I am desperate to get this seafoam in before work tomorrow.

I have googled and googled, but no one has a newer civic with accurate matching pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

have you tuned your car sense you moved? also if its a fuel injected motor run seafoam through the f/i system its self (take your brake booster vacuum hose off and grab a funnel or a cup or something and slowly let the seafoam into the hose. the car must be running while you do this. only use about 1/4 of the can on the f/i and poor the rest into a full gas tank. by doing this your cleaning any carbon build up in the motor and injectors. its going to make your car smoke prty bad, itll be white smoke prob last about 2-5 min(you must keep a constant idle of 2-3k rpm) for it to work properly.

 

that will usually cure the rough idle issue, but if it doesnt look into getting new o2 sensors, possibly clean the egr ports, clean your iacv usally will smooth out idle problems...

[Nugget]

Did you ever find out what your cold start issue was?

I'm having the exact same problem and was wondering if you ever found a solution?

Thanks in advance!

[Fabes]

Hi

 

Got the same problem, rough idle overnight, loud vibration in reverse. But I've driven the car over 100K, and its only just started to happen.

 

Took to my local mechanic couldn't locate the problem, the engine was warm, but he noted the vibration when he put it in reverse. He let it sit for a couple of hours and then took note of the rough idle.

 

Contacted the local dealership and this model they've had a lot of issues with the engine mount. It is a common problem.

 

Mechanics ordered the part

 

Out of warranty and will be out of pocket over $400 bucks to have it fitted.

[johnpc831]

I've just started having this problem. Also a 2007 Civic, except mine is a manual transmission. Loud, rough idle when starting in the cold morning. Sounds GOD AWEFUL when going reverse! But sounds pretty okay when going forward. And don't really notice anything wrong for the rest of the day. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet. But seems like many people having this problem aren't having much luck with the mechanics anyways. I don't want to waste my time if nothing good is gonna come of it.

[Jword]

I'm having the same exact problem with my 2007 Civic, manual tranny. Usually only happens when it's sat in the cold (<30 degrees) and I start it up in the morning. Idles horribly rough, ESPECIALLY in reverse, and when i let off the gas going forward. Then, as if by pure magic, it runs fine the rest of the day. I can't even take it to a mechanic b/c it won't idle rough after it's warmed up and therefore I cannot reproduce the problem.

 

Anyone get a solid answer on this yet? I don't think engine mounts would be the problem since it only does it first thing after a cold start.

[fsturek]

like CMILLER11 who started this thread 4 years ago (and subsequent posters) i also have a 2007 Civic coupe, automatic, with the same 'cold morning' rough idle problem in Park & Reverse Only (worse in Reverse). it started with cold weather last year at about 70,000 miles, went away with the arrival of warm weather here in upstate NY, and has now returned on some of the cooler September mornings. having found lots of company at this Honda forum (somewhat comforting), but no resolution, i searched other sites and 'BELIEVE' I HAVE FOUND THE DEFINITIVE ANSWER TO THIS PROBLEM, to the total credit of those authors who took the time to post detailed articles at the links listed below.

 

in short, the vibration problem is due to a worn (under-designed) passenger side hydraulic motor mount. based on info in these articles a typical 'do-it-yourselfer' should be able to fix this problem without special tools for ~$50, in about 90 minutes time. i will definitely be doing this, but probably not for a couple months. if you find this information helpful you can thank the authors at these other sites for their excellent work.

 

http://anaphoral.blogspot.ca/2012/02/honda-civic-engine-vibration-fix.html

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/engine/300998-r18-motor-mount-diy.html (also see comments at end of this article for add'l info & sources)

[fsturek]

SUCCESS!!! I replaced the ‘hydraulic motor mount’ on the front passenger side of my 2007 Civic, and it totally fixed the COLD MORNING VIBRATION problem in Park & Reverse. Still don’t know why, but it did! I followed the very excellent step by step instructions (with pictures) in the referenced links in my previous post. It took me nearly twice as long as the author of that link but still well worth the cost savings over paying someone else to do it. The only thing that would have made those instructions better is “arrows” in the pictures indicating the specific bolts referred to. Following are comments based on my own experience doing this job which may prove helpful to others. I ordered the part online at RockAuto.com, price $48. They did not specifically identify it as the Front PASSENGER SIDE motor mount, but it did fit nevertheless. It is not necessary to put the car on jack stands or ramps; you just need enough clearance to get a jack under there to support the engine. Make sure you are only supporting the engine, and not touching the ‘frame’ or other structural members; It is necessary to only support only the engine with the jack. Once the jack starts to move the front of the car upwards, stop!, or you will have difficulty removing engine mounting bolts. There are four main parts you need to deal with in this process: 1) Remove the ‘dogbone’ brace that connects at the back end to the top of the wheel strut. 2) Remove the bracket that connects to the engine. 3) Remove the SCREWS ONLY on the bracket that connects to the inner passenger side fender. 4) Remove the bracket bolted to the ‘frame’ below (with integral ‘hydraulic mount’) – this is the ‘Replacement Part’ from RockAuto, or other. That’s it. As I removed each of the four main parts, I placed the bracket and its mounting bolts in a separate tray to help eliminate confusion at reassembly. Be sure you have the correct socket sizes prior to starting this job. And although not necessary, a pneumatic torque wrench to help break loose & remove the bolts would be helpful if available. GOOD LUCK, you can do this!