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Busted Valve = me sad.....


Ketnity151

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so i took the head off my engine, thinkin it could just be somethin as simple as a busted head gasket. well come to find out the gasket looked good, so i was befuddled for a minute. i was lookin everythin over and came to lookin at the valves... low and behold, the 2nd exhaust valve in my 1st cylinder is broken.. over 1/4 of the edge has about 1-2 millimeter chip missing :rant: ... SO.... anyone know of any good relatively inexpensive valvetrain kits out there? i googled it up, and find ONLY performance valvetrain kits runnin between $400 - $600.... although exospeed.com did have a kit for $315, but didnt say what all it came with... im just lookin for OEM type replacement valves, spring, retainers.... or any other ideas what all i should replace? valve guides, seals and whatnot?

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Since you don't mention what engine you're running, it's hard to recommend parts. Brian Crower seems to make some good valves for a relatively low price, but they're only for B series engines.

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yeah, but you gotta buy everything individually which makes it come out to more than those performance kits lol... my dad thinks the performance kits a bad idea, cuz hes all like "well your already in enough trouble anyway, you got suspended license, 4 tickets since then and this will just get you in more trouble" but im tryin to make him see theyre cheaper in a kit than buying individual stuff.....but besides that, its only 1 busted valve, but what all do you think i should replace along with it? or you think the valve, springs and retainers would be enough?

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A performance valve kit isn't going to net you any power gain. What are your future plans? A new spring and retainer kit is only really necessary with larger cams, of which I don't think many...if any are made for a D series. I'd seriously think about just buying a replacement head and calling it a day.

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my FUTURE plans are to swap in a B18 GSR throw on a few bolt ons and call it a day lol... but until then, i at least want to be able drive it lol.. and i know its not gonna net any power gains, which is why i said in my first thread im just lookin for OEM type replacements...

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I'm with Kas $100 will easily get you a complete z6 head. Bolt it on, set the timing gear in the right place, and fire it up.

 

Or if you find out the the valves are the same from a d15b7, I'll mail you a couple with springs, retainers, etc for like $15 shipped.

Edited by alex37211
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i have a set of stock springs and retainers and some new valve stem seals i would sell you if you were interested unless you wanted to upgrade

 

lol i didnt even read alex's post.. but mine are from a z6

Edited by DelSolSweetie
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I'm with Kas $100 will easily get you a complete z6 head. Bolt it on, set the timing gear in the right place, and fire it up.

 

Or if you find out the the valves are the same from a d15b7, I'll mail you a couple with springs, retainers, etc for like $15 shipped.

 

 

what?! where can i get a complete Z6 head for $100???

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what?! where can i get a complete Z6 head for $100???

 

i bought a broken d16z6 for 150 a while back when i needed a new head... the bottom end of the block was bad but the head was fine... now im gonna try to sell the block for 50

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think a remanufactured head off ebay might be a good deal? theres ones for $225, $255, $295... all reman'ed ready to slap on.... i know some people dont really like ebay, but ive never had a problem whatsoever gettin stuff off there...

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check your local craigslist. Around here, there are always z6 heads available for around $100. Hell I've got one I could sell you for $100 plus shipping.

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i sold my old ones for like 50 or something like that

 

 

old ONES? how many of em you go through? lol... think your car looks clean as hell, by the way.. id drive it, pink stars and all :thumbsup: lol.. reminds me of my 02 civic i had, white on white scheme

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but anyway, i just found a local machine shop thats gonna give it a valve job and resurface it for $120, so ill be good in about a week.. in the mean time, im droppin off the oil pan and puttin new rings on the pistons to pass the time, theyll be in tomorrow morning. then all thats left to do is put it together with new timing belt, get my tires back from a buddy of mine, and im good to roll... ooooh im gettin so excited, i sound like a little school girl! another question... im debatin whether to take off the power steering or not.. anyone got any input?

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im debatin whether to take off the power steering or not.. anyone got any input?

 

Leave it on, removing it might improve power and mileage by about .01%. If you want to get a tiny bit of a workout just by driving, go ahead, but that and a preference for stiffer steering are the only reasons to do it. You can pop it into neutral and shut the engine off while underway if you want to see how it would handle.

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the thing is, my friend stephen, i sold him my motor from my 01 civic i wrecked, and he just left the power steering off, and says it doesnt bother him one bit really... so i was just wonderin... and as far as throwin it in neutral and shuttin it off... i get absolutely NO steering whatsoever, so if its that big a deal and its gonna be like that, ill just leave it on... or maybe ill just bolt on the bracket and pump, but leave the belt off, just to see how it feels for a few days...

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old ONES? how many of em you go through? lol... think your car looks clean as hell, by the way.. id drive it, pink stars and all :thumbsup: lol.. reminds me of my 02 civic i had, white on white scheme

 

 

thankyou :D but what happened was my car started tapping.. we went to adjust the valves and turns out the morons who owned the car before me had them too tight and the springs were wore out.. so then i get springs and we take the head off to do everything and notice the valves were messed up.. so i just got a head from a friend of mine and put that on there.. well it started smoking pretty bad and i got mad and put a d16zc in it.. runs great now... it was smoking from cylinder two cause the morons who worked on the motor when i cracked my block didnt put the rings in right.. so i ended up with two heads lol

 

oh but the white on white went away when i bent a rim.. looks like this now:

DSCF1121.jpg

 

the gold matchs the outline of the stars and the pearl.. kinda dirty in that pic.. i try to keep it clean

 

 

oh and i would just leave the power steering.. it will make driving a bit harder and not really gain much

Edited by DelSolSweetie
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it dont look dirty in that pic.. you probly just got too much of a critical eye for your own ride... im the same way lol... i found it pretty difficult to keep white rims clean, brake dust and sh*t gettin on em all the time... but yeah, im kinda worried about puttin these rings in though, cuz ive never done it before.. im reading and re-reading my Chilton/Haynes manual over the process again and again, im pretty confident i can do it, and having em set right and everything, its just the glaze breaking and honing my cylinders im worried about f*ckin up on. i dont wanna get it all together to find out i didnt do it right or somethin, but i figure, im pretty mechanically inclined, and the only way to actually learn somethin is to do it, right?

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in the manual i got it says "the ring gaps must be staggered 120 degrees and must NOT be in the direction of the piston pin boss or at right angles to the pin. The gap of the three-piece oil ring refers to that of the middle spacer" help me with translation........ so the gaps of the 2 top spacer rings cant be cant be perpendicular or parallel to the piston pin, right? so just kinda set the first ring where it isnt, rotate the second ring about 1/3 of the way around, makin sure its not perp. or parallel to the pin, and then rotate the 3-piece oil ring around 1/3 makin sure ITS not perp. or parallel to the pin? ok..... but if your rotating them 120 degrees... mathmatically, one of the gaps is gonna fall perp. or parallel to the pin.. argghh.... whatever ill fiddle with it enough to where itll work out.....

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