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Timing Belt off a Tooth?


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1.5 engine, 1.6 head, headers, brand new complete exhaust (high flow cat with catback exhaust), 1.6 distributor.....stock ecu with no vtec hook ups, 50,000 miles

 

I messed with the timing belt when installing the engine. Could have swore its on time with the marks..but i'm getting a popping sound, mainly at lower RPM's...it was bad when i had a crappy exhaust, so i bought a new exhaust (need it anyways) and now the popping is still there, just a little quieter....

 

Could my timing belt be off a groove? This is my only last guess....i'll probably try and move the cam gear a groove either way (i'll try both ways) to see if it helps...

 

 

Any suggestions? thanks, drew

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Only way to tell is to line it up at TDC and check the marks.

 

 

Its on...crank marks are on, number 1 tdc and the cam gear marks are good, but i heard even being one tooth off can cause problems with these engines....

 

anything else that would cause the popping? All cylinders have great compression except number 1...its only got 60 psi

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Its on...crank marks are on, number 1 tdc and the cam gear marks are good, but i heard even being one tooth off can cause problems with these engines....

 

anything else that would cause the popping? All cylinders have great compression except number 1...its only got 60 psi

Ding, ding, ding...we have a winner. Unburnt fuel entering the exhaust and burning there. Time for a rebuild dude. Didn't you just put a new heada on it?

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Ding, ding, ding...we have a winner. Unburnt fuel entering the exhaust and burning there. Time for a rebuild dude. Didn't you just put a new heada on it?

 

 

Kinda makes sense....

 

Smells like fuel out the exhaust, sounds like engine is missing...well crap..

 

Rebuild what? surely not the whole engine?

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Kinda makes sense....

 

Smells like fuel out the exhaust, sounds like engine is missing...well crap..

 

Rebuild what? surely not the whole engine?

If you have 60 compression then your rings are shot. If you're going to take it apart to do rings, might as well go all out.

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If you have 60 compression then your rings are shot. If you're going to take it apart to do rings, might as well go all out.

 

 

engine only has 50,000 miles on it, so in that case i would only do the rings.

 

Does the motor have to be pulled to do the rings on number 1 cylinder?

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engine only has 50,000 miles on it, so in that case i would only do the rings.

 

Does the motor have to be pulled to do the rings on number 1 cylinder?

That's kind of my point, are you aware of what is involved in replacing the rings?

 

No, the motor can stay in the car, but it's much easier to do with it out of the car.

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That's kind of my point, are you aware of what is involved in replacing the rings?

 

No, the motor can stay in the car, but it's much easier to do with it out of the car.

 

 

Sounds like a got a bad deal on this engine for 400 bucks. Mini me or not.

 

Planned on just buying an engine and swapping it in with no problems. now i have to take it back out again. fml.

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Sounds like a got a bad deal on this engine for 400 bucks. Mini me or not.

 

Planned on just buying an engine and swapping it in with no problems. now i have to take it back out again. fml.

Like I said, it doesn't "have" to come out, but it will be easier. You can drop the pistons out from below, and they go back in through the top.

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Like I said, it doesn't "have" to come out, but it will be easier. You can drop the pistons out from below, and they go back in through the top.

 

 

I'd rather not take it back out...just becuase its in :)

 

So what, oil pan gasket, rod bearings, rings? or...all main bearings as well

 

i can just take the number one rod off right? and leave the others, move the crank accordingly or nah?

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I'd rather not take it back out...just becuase its in :)

 

So what, oil pan gasket, rod bearings, rings? or...all main bearings as well

 

i can just take the number one rod off right? and leave the others, move the crank accordingly or nah?

No, the crank will have to come out of the car...it won't just *move* out of the way. It will be bolted to 3 other connecting rods, and iron doesn't bend or stretch very easily.

 

http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page83.html

 

You didn't state which block you have, but I think this is the page you'll need.

 

http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page90.html

Edited by Kastigir
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thanks for the advice and links...

 

damn the luck...

 

 

I might try some ring seal, just to see if it raises compression just a little...

 

but 60 psi is pretty damn low.

 

How much psi do you think wouldn't cause popping? 100 at least?

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thanks for the advice and links...

 

damn the luck...

 

 

I might try some ring seal, just to see if it raises compression just a little...

 

but 60 psi is pretty damn low.

 

How much psi do you think wouldn't cause popping? 100 at least?

No idea, but for general engine health you don't want a difference of more than 10% between cylinders.

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Do you happen to know the specs/clearance on the valves for my 1.6 head?

 

I might start with that, because there IS a little bit of noise, ticking, in the head, but not much....

 

Could be a start, especially with the upgraded 1.6 head mini me swap....thanks, drew

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Do you happen to know the specs/clearance on the valves for my 1.6 head?

 

I might start with that, because there IS a little bit of noise, ticking, in the head, but not much....

 

Could be a start, especially with the upgraded 1.6 head mini me swap....thanks, drew

I have a book for the 84-91 Civics, probably not much difference between them.

 

Intake .17 - .22 mm

 

Exhaust .22 - .27 mm

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awesome. The 1.6 should be the same?

Well, it said for all 16V in the book, so yea probably the same. As long as you're in that range you should be good.

 

And yes, you got a bad deal by paying $400 for a nearly blown engine. Did you buy this sight unseen?

Edited by Kastigir
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