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1989 Integra Turbo


89turboteg

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Just a little about my car. Had it since 2000. Did all the work myself.

 

Exterior

SE painted moldings

Painted mirrors

Painted mudflaps

Clear front bumper lights with integrated HID fog light

H4 Headlight conversion with HID's

Custom rear taillights (2 choices available and stock)

Front bumper grill and license plate holes filled.

 

Brakes

Power slot front and rear cross drilled rotors

Axxis metal master front and rear brake pads

Goodridge SS brake hoses

Powdercoated calipers, caliper brackets and dust shields

 

Suspension

Tokico Illumina 5 way adj shocks

Tokico rear springs

Lightspeed torsion bars

Suspension Techniques front and rear sway

Greddy front strut tower bar

 

Engine

1989 D16A1 with A/C

JG bored throttle body

JG cams

JG pro-series head

JG stainless steel valves

JG valve springs

AEM adj. Cam gears

Polished valve cover

Arias 8.5:1 overbored turbo pistons

Shotpeened and balanced rods

2 inch intercooler piping

Modified and polished Starion FMIC

Rev-Hard cast iron manifold

Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo (polished)

2 -1/2 inch downpipe

Turbonetics deltagate 7psi spring

Turbo XS type RFL blow-off valve

Bell Eng. Group boost dependant FPR

Pierberg Fuel Pump

RC engineering 320cc injectors

Cometic MLS head gasket

ARP head studs

Custom 3 inch cold air intake with cold air duct from under car

Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust

MSD 6BTM

Direct Port NOS kit with bottle heater and purge

New radiator with high flow fans

 

Gauges

SPI boost

SPI water temp

Greddy EGT

Air fuel ratio

Fuel injector pulse width

 

Transmission

89 integra tranny

ACT clutch

Lightened flywheel

 

Unfortunately may have to sell it soon.

 

 

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long list of stuff. not really feeling the rims, euro lights, or wing but those are easy to fix. are you making that much power with spray? not sure why you got such low cr on a stock block. the car has a lot of potential. looks like it wouldn't take very much at all to make it pretty nice

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long list of stuff. not really feeling the rims, euro lights, or wing but those are easy to fix. are you making that much power with spray? not sure why you got such low cr on a stock block. the car has a lot of potential. looks like it wouldn't take very much at all to make it pretty nice

Lower CR equals more boost, be it turbo or spray.

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Lower CR equals more boost, be it turbo or spray.

yeah i know that, but wouldn't you have to make more boost just to get the same power? i know it reduces knock but it seems to me like there are cheaper/better alternatives to reducing that without spending money on internals, or so i thought. that's kinda what i was getting at in that other thread: higher cr requires less boost to make power, meaning less spool time, more tq, and an overall more efficient setup. do people run low cr just to be safe?

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yeah i know that, but wouldn't you have to make more boost just to get the same power? i know it reduces knock but it seems to me like there are cheaper/better alternatives to reducing that without spending money on internals, or so i thought. that's kinda what i was getting at in that other thread: higher cr requires less boost to make power, meaning less spool time, more tq, and an overall more efficient setup. do people run low cr just to be safe?

Because you can make more power by adding more boost, than by having a higher CR...I know I said it backwards in the other thread. Not to mention, he's running a turbo *and* spray. The more air and fuel you can cram into a cylinder, the more power it will make.

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^but to a point!

 

You can't just add as much as you feel like and think it will be ok...detonation is one...overheating is another...bunch of other things...

 

I personally wouldn't mess with NOS...it's too dangerous for the engine, in my opinion!

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^but to a point!

 

You can't just add as much as you feel like and think it will be ok...detonation is one...overheating is another...bunch of other things...

 

I personally wouldn't mess with NOS...it's too dangerous for the engine, in my opinion!

You can add as much fuel as you want as long as you do the proper tuning. Infact more fuel is better, as richer equals safer. Detonation and engine temps go hand in hand. Both are caused by lean conditions.

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welcome to the forums man :thumbsup:

 

long list of stuff. not really feeling the rims, euro lights, or wing but those are easy to fix.

^ +1

 

im not really feeling the wheels, tail lights, or the wing either... stock tails, no wing, and blades would make your teg look SICK!!!

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Rob, running rich can cause detonation too!

No, running rich can cause cylinder wash, which is a whole different problem. Do you know what detonation is?

 

EDIT: Apparently, extremely rich AFR, like less than 10:1 can cause knock, but it's still rare. If anyone is tuning their car to run richer than 10:1, they deserve to blow their engine.

Edited by Kastigir
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Because you can make more power by adding more boost, than by having a higher CR...I know I said it backwards in the other thread. Not to mention, he's running a turbo *and* spray. The more air and fuel you can cram into a cylinder, the more power it will make.

Yeah i guess that's true. It's just that I've always thought that it would be a more efficient setup to have a point or 2 higher cr and run slightly less boost than running way more boost and lowering cr a couple points. i've been told that a high cr, lower boost engine will spool much faster and have broader torque curve, where as something like a vitara low cr setup will have a high peak hp/tq but because of that you have to wait for that power to really come on, this is all based on the assumption that you have a very good tune. i mean personally if this really is the case i would prefer a dd to have a better hp/tq curve and run something like water/meth injection to make up for the high ping probability with the higher cr.

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Rob, this is a good description I go by...

 

What is detonation:

Detonation occurs in the combustion process when the advancing flame front, which is pressurizing and heating the unburned mixture ahead of it, does so at such a rate that unburned fuel in that zone achieves its auto-ignition temperature before the arrival of the actual flame front. The result is that the unburned mixture combusts "spontaneously" and over the entire zone where the auto-ignition temperature has been achieved. The apparent flame speed in this zone is many orders of magnitude faster than that in conventional combustion initiated by a normal flame front, with the result that the local rise of pressure and temperature is significantly sharp. This produces the characteristic "knocking" or "pinking" sound, and the local mechanical devastation that this can produce on piston crown or cylinder head can be considerable. Actually, "knocking" is the correct terminology for what is a really a detonation behavior over a small portion of the combustion charge. A true detonation process would be one occurring over the entire compressed charge. However, because detonation in this strictly defined sense does not take place in the spark-ignition engine, the words "knocking" and "detonation" are used interchangeably in the literature, without loss of meaning, to describe the effects just discussed.

 

And yes, it's rare that running rich will cause it...I agree...it's just that it can happen...

 

EDIT: sorry for thread jack...

Edited by lceah
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Yeah i guess that's true. It's just that I've always thought that it would be a more efficient setup to have a point or 2 higher cr and run slightly less boost than running way more boost and lowering cr a couple points. i've been told that a high cr, lower boost engine will spool much faster and have broader torque curve, where as something like a vitara low cr setup will have a high peak hp/tq but because of that you have to wait for that power to really come on, this is all based on the assumption that you have a very good tune. i mean personally if this really is the case i would prefer a dd to have a better hp/tq curve and run something like water/meth injection to make up for the high ping probability with the higher cr.

I actually tested this theory last night with zealautowerks CR calculator. I used a 9.3 CR, and with 14 psi of boost...the effective CR was 18.5 or so. Using a 10.8 CR, with the same boost only raised the effective CR to 19.5 or so. I went back to a 9.3 CR, and added 20 psi of boost and the effective CR shot up to 22.5. Obviously, cramming more air in is more effective than increasing CR.

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^gotcha...then all that air gets scary...lean is scary...hehe

Which is why you add more fuel, however, the leaner you can run...the more power you can make. I'll let you know how it turns out when I'm running 20 pounds at a nice 14.7:1 AFR (hopefully).

Edited by Kastigir
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I actually tested this theory last night with zealautowerks CR calculator. I used a 9.3 CR, and with 14 psi of boost...the effective CR was 18.5 or so. Using a 10.8 CR, with the same boost only raised the effective CR to 19.5 or so. I went back to a 9.3 CR, and added 20 psi of boost and the effective CR shot up to 22.5. Obviously, cramming more air in is more effective than increasing CR.

ah i see. in that case, moar boost

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