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NA vs turbo?


rx7turbo287

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i'm sure this topic been cover everywhere, but i really couldn't able to find anything that is solid info out there.

alone with youtube video, online research. i need some help on this

 

 

 

i have about 3000 to put into my car in couple month and i been trying to decide NA build and turbo build.

here's my car currently have.

1990 crx si with b16a y1 LSD tranny, itr flywheel, stage 2 clutch. AEM tru time gear. (in and ex) stock internal and stock head.

obd0 pr3, I/H/E. haven't check compression so don't know, need to be tune badly.

here's the part i will for sure get and also do.

skunk2 mani, skunk2 throttle, hondata s300 with soc p28. obd1 conv, gsr or ctr cam(depends on build)

port head and match, nitr valve(depends) keeping redline 8500(bring it from 8300 to that) and want to keep stock valve spring.

 

i have a friend with gsr bored 20 over with itr piston. balance blue print motor, with ported gsr head. not sure whats the cam is and itr tranny running obd1. untune motor in a 90 hatch fully gut, just driver seat. he's pretty damn fast and i race him of course i lost but i thought he would really pull harder but bout 1/4 his about 10 car lane. which pretty i lost pretty badly but i'm stock motor.

now i also research, that b16a couldn't put much to the ground with all motor, so i thought about turbo it. my friend clam he beat turbo honda all the time but haven't really see it. i know honda all motor is very powerful, not as much dyno queen.

my goal is 12's perfer mid 12s. i research that honda b16a with turbo around 8lb tuned produce around 240 to 260hp. and able to run 12s in ef body. also a 200hp honda NA motor can be around low 13s(i may be wrong). i got limited money. heres my 2 plan

 

turbo. i would put cp forge 10.4:1 piston with stock rod. only balance piston and rod, (becuz i only pulling the piston out and leaving the crank bolted as long the crank look good) ported and match pr3 head. nitr valve from skunk2. gsr cams, skunk2 mani, skunk2 throttle. golden eagle block guard. obd 1 conv with hondata s300. and dyno tune it. i will be spending 3000 at september get motor build and as much bolt on. then around feb i be putting in 2000 and finish the turbo (garrett t3/t04e) 8500 redline.

 

NA i would 12:1 piston with gsr bottom end, itr cam or a good NA cam where allow me use stock spring. port head, polish valve, skunk2 mani, skunk2 throttle, hondata s300. dyno tune and possible 50shot nos.

 

i would like leaving the interior of the car, and not gut out. goal to run 12s

 

both build have to be daily driver. so what u guys think any advice?

I don't want to go LSvtec or b20 and not want to bore out or bigger piston.

 

thx again, please let me know

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You can turbo the stock b16 @ like 7-8 psi and be done. In a crx, you will probably reach 12's. Turbo is definitely better bang for the buck. Also, if you're upgrading cams, you probably wanna go ahead and do the rest of the valve train. Oh and wtf @ installing CP 10.4:1 pistons for a turbo build? That's the stock compression on B16 pistons. The older ones were 10.2:1.

If you're gonna change pistons for a turbo build, get some 9:1's or something.

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you can turbo on 10ish:1 cr, you just have to tune it really well and run the highest grade gas you can find. running a car like that will make it very efficient.

 

are you goals straight line speed or do you want to do anything else?

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you can turbo on 10ish:1 cr, you just have to tune it really well and run the highest grade gas you can find. running a car like that will make it very efficient.

 

are you goals straight line speed or do you want to do anything else?

 

i gonna try to reply both post at once.

 

my piston is 10.2:1, i was thinking up comp to 10.4:1 matching the b16a2. really i don't know, i was just thinking.

i talk to a local performance shop, name jotech in dallas, tx. they told me i be ok running 10lb with stock internal but must tune properly. but i only gonna run 8lb, 10max

 

as for purpose of the car, daily driver. once awhile i go drag strip have some fun. 12's to me pretty respectable on a honda. i know they can do more. but 12's street car. i'm ok with it.

 

 

i want to rebuild the motor with honda rings, i was thinking since i'm there so go ahead forged piston, port the head, may be some valves. i'm in a min budget. so i have to play around with the money, and see what i can get to my goal with that budget i have.

3000 on september, then 1500 at feb. 1 thing for sure i not going with ebay turbo. lol.

 

i going to run 8lbs and max 10. so if things i don't really need, then i can use that money get things going to really improve my car.

forge piston?? do i really need it? i read few place, if i turbo it that i should stay stock cam or gsr cam. porting the head is a must to me. where pr3 head really make most power out of that, skunk2 mani and throttle. hondata is a must for me too, deciding s200 or s300.

 

i guess come down to it, if u have my car, and same motor, with that amount of money, how u guys goign to build it to reach 12s?? budget 4500, 3000 at september and 1500 after feb, and between now till feb, i can able to buy little stuff there and there.

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its really up to you at this point. it sounds like you are on the right track. if you are going with lower boost on stock internals the tune, condition of the engine, and quality of the turbo parts are going to be your main focus. what kastigir said about cr and boost is true. the lower the cr the more boost you can run, but in a way it means you have to run more boost to make power. this does make things a little safer because you'll also have to make more boost to hurt something. on the other hand you'll have more lag and a little less efficiency.

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its really up to you at this point. it sounds like you are on the right track. if you are going with lower boost on stock internals the tune, condition of the engine, and quality of the turbo parts are going to be your main focus. what kastigir said about cr and boost is true. the lower the cr the more boost you can run, but in a way it means you have to run more boost to make power. this does make things a little safer because you'll also have to make more boost to hurt something. on the other hand you'll have more lag and a little less efficiency.

You can typically make up more power with less boost, than the amount you'll lose due to a lower CR, plus you'll add gobs of torque.

Edited by Kastigir
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