jmdale1984 Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 I just bought my first Honda a couple months ago... 1998 Civic DX 2dr 5 speed, 118k miles, almost no mods, ran great. Bought it, brought it home, gave it a tune up, put some Valvoline Synpower 5w-30 in, and took it on a 1200 mile road trip. About 200 miles from being back home, the MIL started flashing (obviously indicating a misfire), and I lost almost all power (it was hard to get it up to 80). I stopped at the nearest Autozone to have the codes scanned. It came back with a misfire on cylinders 1 & 3. After a minute of diagnosis, I changed the ignition control module, and the flashing MIL went away. However, it did not get it's power back. Being in the middle of a road trip, I did the only thing I could think to do (recheck everything that I had removed in the distributor). Nothing helped, so I had to limp it back home with zero power, and running horribly rough at idle. When I got home, I checked the plugs. #3 plug was fouled, and #1 didn't look great, so I put some new NGKs in. It still didn't run right, no improvement at all. So I pull the plugs again. This time, #1 looks fine, but #3 is covered in oil. I don't have a compression tester, or I would have already done a test. I checked the spark and the fuel, and both are fine, but it is producing absolutely no power from cylinder #3. I'm assuming I need a new motor, but maybe one of you guys that's more familiar with Hondas can help me out. All of my experience is with American V-8s. I really liked this Civic when it was running good. 32 mpg in the city with me driving it hard constantly. It had almost no power, but I've got my other car for that. If I have to change the motor, should I upgrade to the VTEC D16? Does it get as good of mileage as the non-VTEC? How would it do with a B16 swap? If I find a D15 motor, can I use that? I wouldn't mind having a little extra power, but it's not necessary. I'd really just like to put back in whatever's cheapest and gets the best mileage. I wouldn't mind having a B16, as I was pretty impressed with my friend's old 99 Civic Si. Any advice? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostedflake Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 if the oil is on the bottom side of the spark plug, it almost sounds like a blown head gasket. A honda engine will blow the head gasket immediately if the temp gets into the red even once. as far as a swap a B16 will get pretty much the same mileage as the D15 but the only thing is you have to use premium gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmdale1984 Posted December 29, 2008 Author Share Posted December 29, 2008 if the oil is on the bottom side of the spark plug, it almost sounds like a blown head gasket. A honda engine will blow the head gasket immediately if the temp gets into the red even once. as far as a swap a B16 will get pretty much the same mileage as the D15 but the only thing is you have to use premium gas. It hasn't overheated since I've had it, and there's no antifreze in the oil or vice versa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kastigir Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 Rebuilding your current engine will probably be cheaper than a swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted December 29, 2008 Share Posted December 29, 2008 A honda engine will blow the head gasket immediately if the temp gets into the red even once. Not entirely true. Ran the sedan with 200k+ miles on it for a thousand miles or more with my thermostat stuck closed in the middle of summer. Ran in the red constantly if I went below 30 or exceeded 50. Head is not blown. Find someone to give you a compression test. d16's for your car should be a piece of cake to find at near givaway prices from someone that pulled theirs to do a swap. You should have no problem finding a longblock w/o trans with reasonable mileage for under 500. Look for pulls that they blew the trans and then junk the bad trans for the good motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 You obviously have a head problem. The compression test should give some insight to what kind of problem you have, but I would be willing to say one of the valves over Cylinder #3 is fuct. Obviously oil is getting in, I think it is fair to say it is coming from above the piston. I would like say it's a valve seal, but you may find that you have bigger problems once you get everything appart: maybe a chipped valve, maybe a bent valve, etc. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 ooo, that would be a pisser to find out the previous owner snapped the timing belt. Slapped it back together only to find out they bent a bunch of valves and quietly pawned it off on some unsuspecting car buyer. The seller wasn't named SeanyC was he? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sport Injection Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 The seller wasn't named SeanyC was he? Ahahahahaha, I almost forgot about that kid. Oh, that brings back some memories. That kid was a total idiot, atleast he took the hint (maybe a little more than that) and bailed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmdale1984 Posted December 30, 2008 Author Share Posted December 30, 2008 Well, I'm going to have to say it has nothing to do with the timing belt, as the car ran great for about 2000 miles. Someone suggested that putting the synthetic oil in it may have washed out some sludge that was covering up a previously existing problem, and so far, that makes the most sense to me. Talked to a local shop about putting a used motor in it, and they want about $2500, and that's more than this car is worth to me. Anyone know of a good shop in East Texas that can do this cheap? I'd be willing to put up $2200 or so for a B16 swap, but I think that's about all I feel like ponying up for this car. I heard there's a guy in Tyler doing K series swaps, anyone know who that is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotealmobile Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Well, I'm going to have to say it has nothing to do with the timing belt, as the car ran great for about 2000 miles. Someone suggested that putting the synthetic oil in it may have washed out some sludge that was covering up a previously existing problem, and so far, that makes the most sense to me. Talked to a local shop about putting a used motor in it, and they want about $2500, and that's more than this car is worth to me. Anyone know of a good shop in East Texas that can do this cheap? I'd be willing to put up $2200 or so for a B16 swap, but I think that's about all I feel like ponying up for this car. I heard there's a guy in Tyler doing K series swaps, anyone know who that is? ya it sounds like #3 is done for sure, i would guess bad rings/valve stem guides/seals before head gasket. those are places oil escapes, possibly valve cover but not likely in your case. i would compression check before doing anything. i would be happy to help with the swap but im in missouri. good place for a motor would be hmotorsonline.com. the motors are cheap/abundant/and so many various options it shouldnt be much, you just need a good honda buddy to help with the labor, gl man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 $2500 is too much for a straight d16 replacement. With a bit of research you should be able to find a suitable d16y7 longblock for $500 or even less. Since it will be a direct plug in you should be able to find a shop that would do it for under $500 cash. Hell, since it is a direct replacement you should ask some of your friends. There is bound to be someone around with a few tools, half a clue and a desire to kill a saturday and a case of miller helping you swap it. All you will need are some basic hand and air tools, a hoist and some fresh fluids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C92hatchX Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 B16 FTMFW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 B16 FTMFW! Why? Nobody is farther away from a b16 swap then you self. Have you ever even ridden in a swapped car before? Kind of hard to be taken seriously when you are so ridiculously enthusiastic about something you have never done and have never experienced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbotealmobile Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 Why? Nobody is farther away from a b16 swap then you self. Have you ever even ridden in a swapped car before? Kind of hard to be taken seriously when you are so ridiculously enthusiastic about something you have never done and have never experienced. pwned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRG7 Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 $2500 is too much for a straight d16 replacement. With a bit of research you should be able to find a suitable d16y7 longblock for $500 or even less. Since it will be a direct plug in you should be able to find a shop that would do it for under $500 cash. Hell, since it is a direct replacement you should ask some of your friends. There is bound to be someone around with a few tools, half a clue and a desire to kill a saturday and a case of miller helping you swap it. All you will need are some basic hand and air tools, a hoist and some fresh fluids. With a few friends, a hoist wouldn't even be necessary. We used to gather about three guys who would pull D and B series out, before we invested in a hoist and turned it into a faster job that required less people (after some of our friends started catching on that when we invited them over for a "party" it usually meant there was a case or two of beer and a project to be worked on ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 sounds like you may have burnt a valve possibly. compression test needed. the oil you speak of on your plugs is comming from your valve cover gasket leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Matteu Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 With a few friends, a hoist wouldn't even be necessary. We used to gather about three guys who would pull D and B series out, before we invested in a hoist and turned it into a faster job that required less people (after some of our friends started catching on that when we invited them over for a "party" it usually meant there was a case or two of beer and a project to be worked on ). I always wanted to know this. I know when I changed my clutch, I just leaned over, picked up the transmission and pressed it against the motor, then bolted it up; no prob. You think a party and some beer would get my V6 picked up? It's a C27A4 in a 1997 Honda Accord EX-V6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xeryon Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 I always wanted to know this. I know when I changed my clutch, I just leaned over, picked up the transmission and pressed it against the motor, then bolted it up; no prob. You think a party and some beer would get my V6 picked up? It's a C27A4 in a 1997 Honda Accord EX-V6. NAPA and similar places rent hoists as well. Or you can rig a stationary block and tackle setup in your garage using a few 4x4 posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmdale1984 Posted January 2, 2009 Author Share Posted January 2, 2009 I've got a hoist, and all the necessary tools, the thing is, I really don't want to f^&* with it. My Camaro is the only car I feel like getting dirty for (and with 420 rwhp, it's been worth it). The Civic is supposed to be my daily beater, but after this, I think I may just fix it and trade it in for an RSX. Noone know someone good to take this to in East Texas? Possibly even DFW or Houston? BTW... the oil I'm talking about on the plugs is on the combustion chamber side, so it's definitely not coming from a leaky valve cover gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRG7 Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 I've got a hoist, and all the necessary tools, the thing is, I really don't want to f^&* with it. My Camaro is the only car I feel like getting dirty for (and with 420 rwhp, it's been worth it). The Civic is supposed to be my daily beater, but after this, I think I may just fix it and trade it in for an RSX. Noone know someone good to take this to in East Texas? Possibly even DFW or Houston? BTW... the oil I'm talking about on the plugs is on the combustion chamber side, so it's definitely not coming from a leaky valve cover gasket. If you have the means to do the work, why would you pay someone to do it for you? If you're just going to swap in the same engine, it won't take you long at all (and the work will be minimal). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 I've got a hoist, and all the necessary tools, the thing is, I really don't want to f^&* with it. My Camaro is the only car I feel like getting dirty for (and with 420 rwhp, it's been worth it). The Civic is supposed to be my daily beater, but after this, I think I may just fix it and trade it in for an RSX. Noone know someone good to take this to in East Texas? Possibly even DFW or Houston? BTW... the oil I'm talking about on the plugs is on the combustion chamber side, so it's definitely not coming from a leaky valve cover gasket. if the plug is covered in wet oil , i assure you its comming from the rubber spark plug ring under the valve cover leaking. the oil that was once sitting in the hole , drains into the combustion chamber once the plug comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quake Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 yeah...CRG has a good point........as long as you find a good d15 you won't have to do any mods to the ECU or engine compartment....no special tuning required.......plus you can find something with half the miles that engine had for a reasonable price.......as for the b16....I own a 99 Si with a b16.......and the premium gas thing is a bitch.....if you don't feed it the right stuff it pings pretty bad.......Although....I suppose its the price you pay for "potential" performance..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_big_dl86 Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 swap in a ls man.you will still get great milaege and more power.plus they are a dime a dozen.since u r a v8 owner im sure u will appreciate the tq from the ls rather then the high revs from the b16.plus u wont have to run premium lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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