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b20B, b20Z, JDM b20


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Torque does gets a heavy object moving quicker if it has great traction but on a front wheel drive car it is something we lack. yes the b16 makes less torque which will aid in the traction department compared to a ls or b20, but with less torque mean i can launch my car higher in the rpm range than a b20 or ls which will put me in the rpm range of power where launching lower on the bigger motor it would have to climb a little longer to get in the power range on the motor thats if you can plant the power to the ground. On a n/a car i would go with the bigger motor of course cause the bigger the motor the more power it is capable of making but if you have a turbo i would give up the low end torque for more high rpm power...let the turbo do the work. and the other advantage of using a b16 is reliablity. with the short stroke long rod the piston speed is kept at a reasonable level compared to a ls or b20 at 8500rpm. yes the rods are lighter on the ls and the b20 but you need some weight especially if your spinning the motor that high. On a street car with street tires the b16 turbo in my opinion wins hands down. Everyone has there own opinions about whats the best setup but in reality you need the best setup for the specific application. You must give up something for something. and I pretty sure you dont want to build a one run wonder. Take my drag car for example... I'm running a f22 sohc non vtec engine. I have the bore at 89mm but i de-stroked it so i can get a better rod ratio. It will still be 2.2ltrs but im running a bigger bore to help unshroad the valves. the advantage is that I wouldn't need to rebuild my engine every 25 passes compared to some people in my class and with a better rod ration the piston will dwell on the top a little longer. Don't forget you want to be able to get to the finish line first and if your spinning at the start the other car will leave you in the dust. tune the car so it's soft at the beginning than have the car start to charge after 50mph. if you want more power add a little more boost at the top. Don't be the guy with the excuse "I would have got you if I didnt spin my tires" cause the only thing that matters is who is at the end first.

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well bro i def see where your coming from. i might do that then. but what i might also have to do is do the b26 turbo then build it so i still have money for a complete turbo kit. and then in the long run after i figure out how much ima have left over ill then build the motor. but i def think ima go b16 now.

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yea thats true. but it would still be nice to have a vtec motor thats boosted. my buddies got a 02 si with the old k20's in it pushing 7psi and its pretty dirty i drove it the other day and that thing pulled like a MF. i mean ive been in a couple vtec turbos all of which pull massivly hard once turbo spool kicks in. the only thing i worry bout is ive heard that if vtec kicks in after turbo spool alota bad things can happin.

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o really. i mean thats just what ive heard i didnt know whether or not it was true. i figuerd id clear that up before i did it. i mean i know boost and vtec are a good combo that would be a big upside. but i wouldnt be able to run from a dig and if i did just have to wait for turbo spool and hope it comes fast. another prob is i might be running a .76 trim turbo but im not sure. its still a t3/t4 but its a a .76 trim. ima be running open down for a lil quicker spool. but still its a big turbo kinda. but well have to see.

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Traction is an easy thing to get. If 600wtq SWFD cars can get traction on 24.5" slicks, then a 200wtq street car can get traction on good 23x7's.

 

traction is is with traction control (wheelie bars or lower boost settings) those cars don't launch at there full torque peak. and for what he wants and what i was refering to is a street car on street tires. Slicks help very much so at the track but you also got to remember by using a bigger tire you change the gearing. it won't accelerate through the gears as quickly as it would with a smaller tire but if you get too small a tire you might hit your rev limiter at the big end of the track.... got to find the medium.... Well good luck with your setup chrisz232

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Traction control is a good set of tires, good suspension setup and alignment, boost by gear, and traction control if your EMS has it. 23x7's are street tires.

 

9.5 second SFWD Civic I built a trans for launches at 15psi, which puts him way over 200wtq. Boost up to 51psi in 4th and doesn't have problems putting the power down on 24.5's, so now we're doing a new trans setup and more power for 26's.

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traction is is with traction control (wheelie bars or lower boost settings) those cars don't launch at there full torque peak. and for what he wants and what i was refering to is a street car on street tires. Slicks help very much so at the track but you also got to remember by using a bigger tire you change the gearing. it won't accelerate through the gears as quickly as it would with a smaller tire but if you get too small a tire you might hit your rev limiter at the big end of the track.... got to find the medium.... Well good luck with your setup chrisz232

 

 

thanks bro

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traction is is with traction control (wheelie bars or lower boost settings) those cars don't launch at there full torque peak. and for what he wants and what i was refering to is a street car on street tires. Slicks help very much so at the track but you also got to remember by using a bigger tire you change the gearing. it won't accelerate through the gears as quickly as it would with a smaller tire but if you get too small a tire you might hit your rev limiter at the big end of the track.... got to find the medium.... Well good luck with your setup chrisz232

 

 

thanks bro

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And? You can have all the traction control features the SFWD cars do on a street car, minus the slicks. With all that on good street tires traction won't be a problem even if you had 200wtq from idle to redline.

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No you can't.

 

You get what you pay for.

 

Reliable is not a part lasting a year before it breaks. It is a part not breaking (use common sense, I'm talking cheap used parts or knockoffs, not something like any shelf valve springs holding up to a big cam and 20k rpm).

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i mean im running with a certain amount, cause they car just crap out on me and im getting a loan that i can actually afford at the beg of jan and i can only take out so much. so once i actually have the money to afford top of the line parts cheap and relaible gotta cut it.

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i mean im running with a certain amount, cause they car just crap out on me and im getting a loan that i can actually afford at the beg of jan and i can only take out so much. so once i actually have the money to afford top of the line parts cheap and relaible gotta cut it.

No point building it cheaply, only to tear it down and rebuild it better. Build it once, build it right.

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yea but theres only so much i can do with so much money. i mean u wanna give me a couple thousand go for it.

I've got my own rebuild I'm funding, but nice try. There is no point in completely building a motor cheaply, only to tear it down and rebuild it again later. If I were you, I wouldn't waste the time unless you do it right. You can do it wrong, but don't come back crying when your *built* motor blows up with 853 miles on it.

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