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b20B, b20Z, JDM b20


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I don't think block guards do anything. All the sleeve failures I've seen are not affected with or without one. Run enough boost or poor tuning on thin enough (whether stock or aftermarket) sleeves and they will crack.

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block guards do make a difference compared to nothing at all. it braces the top when most of the action happens. for the amount of power he wants to make the stock sleeve should be okay taking into account good tuning. With the block guard there is less shift in the top of the sleeve as opposed to a floating sleeve. I have a b20/vtec that i put together with a block guard and forged pistons only doing 387whp. My cousins da integra has a ls/vtec i built with a block guard and forged rods and pistons making 439whp in 15 psi. I have yet to break a sleeve but anything over 450whp i'm going to sleeve the block.

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Not going to help with dependability. Boost spike or bad tuning will end the stock sleeves. Will help a little with longevity. Cylinders will hold their shape a little better, and it will seal marginally better.

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i mean i know the sleeves are weak as crap. i was gonna do an ls turbo till i couldnt find one as cheap as a b20 and my buddy said that a b20 turbo is dirty as crap. and he hasnt had any probs with his. so after all the crap that i heard from b20's being bad turbo motors and not having a whole lotta money and not having much more time to be able to wait (cause my motor is crapting out on me) so i gotta figure somethin out quick.

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I mean i knows its a more dependable motor but i dont know if i can produce the same amount of power of a stock block i mean i know i wont need to resleeve it and wont need a blockgaurd but i dont if without doing headwork and lower comp pistons if i can still produce 10 psi and have the same power output. :dry:

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2500 is really a small budget to get quality parts and tuning especially harder if that includes buying the motor. Personally, I would get a b16. Put some forged pistons in it with a block guard atleast. spend the rest of the money on a quality manifold and turbo parts. And the most important, management, injectors, and tuning. a hondata s100, 550cc injectors, and tuning would run you about 900 give or take 50 dollars. So that would mean you got 1600 left. pistons would cost about 350-400. rings, bearings, gaskets and seal would be like 300. balancing the bottom end would be 150. engine assembly roughly 150-300 depending on shop charge or hourly charge of the person doing it. that leaves roughly 450 dollars for the turbo system. :( This type of set-up i have built for some customers I have and they produce 300whp+ at 15 psi on 91 pump gas. it would be better if there head wasn't stock.

 

How much power you want to make? Oh and remember turbo cars need to upgrade there cooling systems. fluidyne radiator and such so the is another 450 for the radiator.

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So basically what SSR said.. cheap, fast, reliable... pick two, cuz you cant have all three.

 

 

 

BTW.. who wants to build me a setup for a 3.0 CL?.. I would love to twin turbo my v6...

 

 

 

SSR.. start trying to figure out how to build my boo boo autotragic tranny.. dont care how street friendly it is. If it can be done, i want to do it sooner or later.(more than likely later.. just being realistic)

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Block guard isn't needed, especially on a B16/B17/B18.

 

I don't do autos. Let alone build them. A built auto to handle big power would run you around 10-15k. Why do that when you can buy a race box for a little more?

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Like i said.. building my 3.0 is a dream.. nothing more. Maybe one day when i have nothing better to do with my monies...Of course, when that day comes, and i need tranny advice, as far as what should go into my boo boo autotragic, i will hit you up before i talk to anyone else..

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okay so your saying buy a b16 and then build it and then with the money left over turbo it. but the only prob i see with that is they dont have much bottem end. they have a very strong upper powerband but a crapty bottem end. and i wouldnt be left with much for the turbokit. and im a lil iffy bout running more then 10 psi. especially seens hows its a DD car. i mean i might go with an ls and then later on put a vtec pref b16 head on it. but still. i am only looking to produce b/y 250 and 300 to the ground.

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okay so your saying buy a b16 and then build it and then with the money left over turbo it. but the only prob i see with that is they dont have much bottem end. they have a very strong upper powerband but a crapty bottem end. and i wouldnt be left with much for the turbokit. and im a lil iffy bout running more then 10 psi. especially seens hows its a DD car. i mean i might go with an ls and then later on put a vtec pref b16 head on it. but still. i am only looking to produce b/y 250 and 300 to the ground.

 

either way you look at it you going to invest in the same parts as would if you did the ls or b20. and yes the b16 won't have that much bottom end compared to a ls or b20 but on a street car on street tires you don't want too much torque off the line. with a b16 you can launch pretty mean from a stand still and accelerate like hell, where a b20 or ls would leave you spinning the tires. the other advantage of the b16 is the rod ratio. it also has stronger rods than an ls or b20. you shouldn't think that peak horsepower is what your after cause that wont make you fast. if your car only makes strong power from 7000-8300 rpm and your competitor makes more power than you from 4000-7800rpm, the competitor will beat you. his car would accelerate alot quicker than yours and get up to peak power sooner than you. this is taking into account that they have the same gearing. remember its all about acceleration.

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yea that what im saying is a b16 only has like 112 torque and 160 hp which is nice at a 60 in full boost. but off a line until turbo spool im be in the back of the pack. as for an ls or b20 if i get in it slow and then once i hook up get on it, it would be alot better.

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