CleanGSR Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm guessing that for boosted applications, a lightened flywheel isn't the best idea. I would think you wouldn't want revs dropping off and dropping out of boost faster between shifts??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannaBstuntin Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Don't let off the gas then. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanGSR Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Don't let off the gas then. LOL Funny as it sounds, that's why they have the full throttle shifting thingy in Hondata. Still seems like the lighter flywheel would be a bad thing on turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shak3yb0n3z Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 why would it be bad on a turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannaBstuntin Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 why would it be bad on a turbo? He thinks that when you shift (the time you spend out of gear), the engine RPM's will slow down too quickly......then once you engage the clutch again and get back into gear, your RPMs will be lower than normal (and out of optimal boost range). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d15BSol Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 I'll add some incite to this. Ok my friend had a b16 in his 91 Si hatch with an act 3100 clutch, and a 7 lbs fly wheel.. He defiantly gained rpm's way faster but, it would drop so fast in the rpm he always had to keep his foot on the gas lightly between shifts, or the car would bog bad between the shifts. So a Boosted appplication, intern would not be effected at all, but only in the aspect of the rpm's dropping faster for a brief second, and a tad lower then the normal stock flywheel would.. Also turbos don't stop spinning as soon as the exhaust gases stop flowing at the optimal rates for good spool, it may slow down the turbo a tad but that wont effect performance. So if your really concerned with all of that, just keep your foot on the gas partly and that will solve the rpm bog and jerky shifts, when re-engaging the clutch. You could also try Rev matching, when you match the RPM's to the next gears rpm engage point best shift you can ever get, so smooth. Also if you want look up Toe and heel driving on a closed course it's every tricky but.. practice makes perfect. *BUT I don't recommend this for street driving.* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shak3yb0n3z Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 what the hell do you guys do when you shift? stop between gears and eat a sandwich? I don't even have a short throw shifter and I'm able to (and my fiance who's a new stick driver) shift both my RX-8 and Del Sol (B16A3) which both have lighter flywheels, and the del sol has a fidanza 7lb flywheel. occasionally i'll have to blip the gas again when downshifting but otherwise i'm able to shift both my vehicles just fine. get a short throw shifter or for the love of god stop eating/texting or doing whatever it is you're doing between shifting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 You won't drop out of boost. The lighter the better. Free traction control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CelticRacer Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 thanks for all the input, i am pretty set on getting the 7lb flywheel. and from what i have been hearing a 12lb flywheel is perfect for a boosted car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 I'll add some incite to this. Ok my friend had a b16 in his 91 Si hatch with an act 3100 clutch, and a 7 lbs fly wheel.. He defiantly gained rpm's way faster but, it would drop so fast in the rpm he always had to keep his foot on the gas lightly between shifts, or the car would bog bad between the shifts. So a Boosted appplication, intern would not be effected at all, but only in the aspect of the rpm's dropping faster for a brief second, and a tad lower then the normal stock flywheel would.. Also turbos don't stop spinning as soon as the exhaust gases stop flowing at the optimal rates for good spool, it may slow down the turbo a tad but that wont effect performance. So if your really concerned with all of that, just keep your foot on the gas partly and that will solve the rpm bog and jerky shifts, when re-engaging the clutch. You could also try Rev matching, when you match the RPM's to the next gears rpm engage point best shift you can ever get, so smooth. Also if you want look up Toe and heel driving on a closed course it's every tricky but.. practice makes perfect. *BUT I don't recommend this for street driving.* friend cant drive?????? i have a lightweight flywheel/clutch/shortthrow and drive it daily on pretty hilly areas and flat areas and dont have any problems.. i think they just need to learn how to shift what the hell do you guys do when you shift? stop between gears and eat a sandwich? I don't even have a short throw shifter and I'm able to (and my fiance who's a new stick driver) shift both my RX-8 and Del Sol (B16A3) which both have lighter flywheels, and the del sol has a fidanza 7lb flywheel. occasionally i'll have to blip the gas again when downshifting but otherwise i'm able to shift both my vehicles just fine. get a short throw shifter or for the love of god stop eating/texting or doing whatever it is you're doing between shifting! but i always heard a little bit heavier flywheel was better for boost cause something about resistance.. ill go get a vid in a few min. when my mom wakes up.. she works third shift and ill get yelled at if she hears me revin my car in the front yard and ill get a vid of me driving it like tonight or tomorrow and have it posted tomorrow for you.. (and it wont have any super jerky f'ed up shifts cause well a lightweight flywheel doesnt do that) p.s. if your friend is trying to shift at like 7k and not giving it enough gas it will jerk like that.. my ex's cobra was bad about it if you didnt drive it right... and you can make any manual jerk, lightweight flywheel or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d15BSol Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 "act 3100 clutch, and a 7 lbs fly wheel.. He defiantly gained rpm's way faster but, it would drop so fast in the rpm he always had to keep his foot on the gas lightly between shifts" I didn't mention that his car was built up from the oil pan to the valve cover did I. =\ It was a fully built Hi compression/ I guess stroker, JDM B16, bored to a 1.7, Toda Vtec killer cams, fully built head and bottom end, and the clutch and... pressure plate was really ridiculous, it felt like pushing a cinder block, that added with the Fly wheel.. sucked, but the car was a blast to drive trust me.. he's a great driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelSolSweetie Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 ive built 4 cylinders to built mustangs and well when you shift they normally dont do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..SSR.. Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 If it was only 1.7 it wasn't stroked. 84mm bore on a B16 = 1.7 With VTEC killers on a short stroke 1.7, driveability problems were more than likely due to the engine setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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