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need some help with my hatch!!


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Who built the header?

 

180+whp all motor + close gear set on slicks will get you the same times as a DIY turbo setup.

 

not even close brother, not even close. more so when that turbo set up also has a si tranny and slicks :thumbsup: my first DIY kit i used a little 14b, FMU and a vafc and still layed down 250 whp with a agressive timing curve and ripped off high 12s and with a SOHC d16 at that :o my current DIY set up is running high 11s bone stock head , cam, intake ect ect just rods pistons and ARP studs, well you can see in my sig the entire list.

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you need to decide what type of driving you plan on using the car for, its very important when choosing your turbo that you correctly match the turbo to what you want from the car, a turbo thats on the small side for your motor will spool almost instantly and by like you hit a nos button right off the line but it will start pooping out in the midrange and high rpms. a turbo thats in the middle will still spool very quick and give amazing mid range power but again will poop out a little on the top end, a turbo thats on the large size will not spool up until high in the rpm range but when it does it will be a rocket blast all the way till redline this is typically for cars that drag race only, guys who want that peak hp number to brag about typically make little low and midrange power.

so once you decide what you want from the car you match the turbo up. you will also need a intercooler, bigger injectors, engine management, piping for the cold and hot side of the turbo set up, a boost controller if you want more boost then the wastegate spring is set for. you will need to decide if you want to go with internal or external wastegate. then of course the motor upgrades we spoke of and make sure when you buy the pistons you get ones for boost that lower the GSRs compression down to around 9. this is basically all you need aside from some minor odds and ends.

 

 

i am wanting probably the mid range power because i dont usually race from start. usually im on the highway and i drop it down and go.... i have to find a really good mechanic cause i need someone who strictly works on hondas and when i go in there i will be able to tell him exactly what i want and he tell me what i need and a price. but that is hard to find down here in texas lol.....but im looking...ill figure it out

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you need to decide what type of driving you plan on using the car for, its very important when choosing your turbo that you correctly match the turbo to what you want from the car, a turbo thats on the small side for your motor will spool almost instantly and by like you hit a nos button right off the line but it will start pooping out in the midrange and high rpms. a turbo thats in the middle will still spool very quick and give amazing mid range power but again will poop out a little on the top end, a turbo thats on the large size will not spool up until high in the rpm range but when it does it will be a rocket blast all the way till redline this is typically for cars that drag race only, guys who want that peak hp number to brag about typically make little low and midrange power.

so once you decide what you want from the car you match the turbo up. you will also need a intercooler, bigger injectors, engine management, piping for the cold and hot side of the turbo set up, a boost controller if you want more boost then the wastegate spring is set for. you will need to decide if you want to go with internal or external wastegate. then of course the motor upgrades we spoke of and make sure when you buy the pistons you get ones for boost that lower the GSRs compression down to around 9. this is basically all you need aside from some minor odds and ends.

 

i am wanting probably the mid range power because i dont usually race from start.  usually im on the highway and i drop it down and go....  i have to find a really good mechanic cause i need someone who strictly works on hondas and when i go in there i will be able to tell him exactly what i want and he tell me what i need and a price.  but that is hard to find down here in texas  lol.....but im looking...ill figure it out<BR><BR><BR>

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i am wanting probably the mid range power because i dont usually race from start. usually im on the highway and i drop it down and go.... i have to find a really good mechanic cause i need someone who strictly works on hondas and when i go in there i will be able to tell him exactly what i want and he tell me what i need and a price. but that is hard to find down here in texas lol.....but im looking...ill figure it out

you dont need a mechanic all you need is to find a good machine shop to do the stuff you cant do, they can even assemble the short block for yah and then you do the rest.

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you dont need a mechanic all you need is to find a good machine shop to do the stuff you cant do, they can even assemble the short block for yah and then you do the rest.

 

 

yeah but im the type of person who just gives money to people and make sure it gets done right..lol

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yeah but im the type of person who just gives money to people and make sure it gets done right..lol

 

 

i also wanted to know if anyone knows about getting sponsers.. i mean is it as simple enough as going into somewhere and asking places, or is it more complicated?...just curious

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i also wanted to know if anyone knows about getting sponsers.. i mean is it as simple enough as going into somewhere and asking places, or is it more complicated?...just curious

 

 

You can edit your posts instead of making one post after another, just so you know.:thumbsup:

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not even close brother, not even close. more so when that turbo set up also has a si tranny and slicks :thumbsup: my first DIY kit i used a little 14b, FMU and a vafc and still layed down 250 whp with a agressive timing curve and ripped off high 12s and with a SOHC d16 at that :o my current DIY set up is running high 11s bone stock head , cam, intake ect ect just rods pistons and ARP studs, well you can see in my sig the entire list.

 

 

You've obviously never ridden in a car with a gear set.

Just to illustrate my point...

 

Here is your beloved Si trans (hopefully you weren't talking about Z6 Si trans...) against my Y8/MFactory close gear set trans.

B16A2 vs D16Y8/MFactory gear set

 

Now here is your beloved Si trans against a Si trans with MFactory first gear and close gear set (not even the closest ratios they offer).

B16A2 vs B16A2/MFactory 1st and close gear set

 

Now do I need to mention RPM drop or do you get the point?

 

P.S. Reliable 180whp geared all motor B > 250whp FMU VAFC turbo D16

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i also wanted to know if anyone knows about getting sponsers.. i mean is it as simple enough as going into somewhere and asking places, or is it more complicated?...just curious

 

 

If someone wants me to sponsor them, I ask for their resume and what they will do for me in return.

 

If they have no wins, its an instant no.

 

If its a street only car, its an instant no.

 

If they don't have a resume, its an instant no.

 

If they don't want to do anything in return other than rock a sticker, its an instant no.

 

If they think sponsorship = free parts, its an instant no. Only time parts are free is if you win a national championship with something you got from me, even then it is only a contingency.

 

If you have a real good rep and have at least podium'd, then I will approach you about a sponsorship.

 

Thats how it is with most shops.

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You've obviously never ridden in a car with a gear set.

Just to illustrate my point...

 

Here is your beloved Si trans (hopefully you weren't talking about Z6 Si trans...) against my Y8/MFactory close gear set trans.

B16A2 vs D16Y8/MFactory gear set

 

Now here is your beloved Si trans against a Si trans with MFactory first gear and close gear set (not even the closest ratios they offer).

B16A2 vs B16A2/MFactory 1st and close gear set

 

Now do I need to mention RPM drop or do you get the point?

 

P.S. Reliable 180whp geared all motor B > 250whp FMU VAFC turbo D16

This is all elementary any drag racer knows about gearing and power bands, and your entitled to your opinion. but you couldn't be more wrong if you think a 250 whp boosted car cant whoop on a 180 NA all day long given the same car weight ,a properly matched turbo can spool very low and never fall out of full boost between shifts, sorry i don't believe in bench racing but just this once i will entertain you. if you want to see video footage of me spanking GSR swaps with gutted interiors i/h/e and close ratio trannys let me know i have tons of footage from the drag strip i could dig up and post for you. actually i will tell yah what i beg you to please show me a full weight civic hatch or CRX with a GSR swap thats making a proven 180 whp and that runs solid 12s all day not the occasional 12.9 if its cold out and there is a tail wind. cause i can show you tons of footage to prove my opinion. your not the only one who runs custom gear sets :thumbsup: I have a tranny out getting done as we speak, quaffe , custom gearing 1-4th for the track and 5th nice and tall for the highway.

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Same weight blah blah blah. Weight doesn't matter. Gut both cars and the NA car will be lighter. Stock GSR with bolt ons will make 150-160whp. Doubt you've raced many with close gear sets. Not many sold on the east coast (MFactory, Gear-X, Quaife, or ATS). Your 1-4 aren't custom and I'm guessing someone named Charles is building it for you. Custom D gears 1-4 would run 3-4 grand and that is for machined, not forged.

 

How about you race Steves CRX from Big Tuna Racing? He is in Baltimore. Last season he ran a 13.5 iirc with a stock Z6 trans and 130whp. This season is is up 50+whp and has a 4spd Y8 trans built by me. He runs at BOTI and NOPI events.

 

A local to me (darrinbrewer on H-T if you want to confirm with him) has a 92-95 Si hatch with full interior and spare (weighs 265 himself), 20" slicks, 181whp GSR with stock CTR transmission (same gearing as ITR/B16A2). 13.2@99. Take a little weight out and add a gearset and he would be in the mid-low 12's. And this was at Bristol on an unprepped day at 1,490 ft. Cheap header and stock head BTW.

 

P.S. Post footage of said close gears GSR's. Make sure audio is good so I can hear the RPM drop.

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Same weight blah blah blah. Weight doesn't matter. Gut both cars and the NA car will be lighter. Stock GSR with bolt ons will make 150-160whp. Doubt you've raced many with close gear sets. Not many sold on the east coast (MFactory, Gear-X, Quaife, or ATS). Your 1-4 aren't custom and I'm guessing someone named Charles is building it for you. Custom D gears 1-4 would run 3-4 grand and that is for machined, not forged.

 

How about you race Steves CRX from Big Tuna Racing? He is in Baltimore. Last season he ran a 13.5 iirc with a stock Z6 trans and 130whp. This season is is up 50+whp and has a 4spd Y8 trans built by me. He runs at BOTI and NOPI events.

 

A local to me (darrinbrewer on H-T if you want to confirm with him) has a 92-95 Si hatch with full interior and spare (weighs 265 himself), 20" slicks, 181whp GSR with stock CTR transmission (same gearing as ITR/B16A2). 13.2@99. Take a little weight out and add a gearset and he would be in the mid-low 12's. And this was at Bristol on an unprepped day at 1,490 ft. Cheap header and stock head BTW.

 

P.S. Post footage of said close gears GSR's. Make sure audio is good so I can hear the RPM drop.

Like i said show me a car that runs solid 12s at 180 whp and full weight. hear say means nothing. I will have to dig threw the old taped footage for any outside car video, most my stuff is in car and you cant hear the other guy to well. but i do have some stuff i hosted on youtube a few months ago i can post

any way as promised full weight CRX si with stereo system and every thing left in it

this pass was my old set up with slicks way to tall for good gearing this pass was at only 17 psi with my old turbo making 250 whp i race a twin turbo vr4

12.6 at 116

this was a b20 swap CRX he claimed he also had a 50 shot, my camera guy sucked at keeping both of us in the view finder :( this was at 17 psi with my old turbo as well but with better slicks for gearing then in the above video.

more recent footage with same slicks as the b20 swap race and different turbo, notice i dial a 12 flat on my window. i am racing a hatch with some sort of a gsr swap he is full weight with a stereo same as me but he is only on drag radials. he dials a low 14 and gets a 2 second head start notice i sit and wait over 2 second and still catch him by the 330 mark, i knew i was on a 11.8 pass so i lifted way early to avoid running under i scrubbed off almost 25 MPH and still coasted threw with a 12.3 at only 93 mph, bracket racing means you cant go under or you loose. still want me to race your buddies "12" second all motor gsrs? if so you and they can find me at beaver springs drag way every weekend :)

EDIT added a 3rd video of a b20 swap .

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To the thread starter i hope you don't feel I hijacked your thread, this is all good info in helping you decide what you want to do. i can prove that a DIY home made turbo kit can run 12s easy in a full weight street car and with a SOHC at that, a DOHC is even easier to run 12s with boost. but you would have to make it a gutted shell and have all the stars and moon aligned just right to run even a mid to high 12 with a NA 180 whp car and i have yet to see one do that yet. if you read above all the cars he listed was running 13s. shoot if you want to run 13s leave the gsr bone stock and put a tiny turbo on it and you will run 13s all day long.

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To the thread starter i hope you don't feel I hijacked your thread, this is all good info in helping you decide what you want to do. i can prove that a DIY home made turbo kit can run 12s easy in a full weight street car and with a SOHC at that, a DOHC is even easier to run 12s with boost. but you have to make it a gutted shell and have all the stars and moon aligned just right to run even a mid to high 12 with a NA 180 whp car and i have yet to see one do that yet. if you read above all the cars he listed was running 13s. shoot if you want to run 13s leave the gsr bone stock and put a tiny turbo on it and you will run 13s all day long.

 

 

lol... dont worrie about it. im impressed with how much yall know about these cars. damn i wish i had just a little knowledge of that crap yall are talking about....lol... i know i have a nice car that is bad ass and really quick, but i want to push it to the limits. im looking for like mid 12,s i think im going to go ahead and get a turbo for it and get it tuned and put it on a dyno,and see what it has. oh and about the sponsors i see people all the time who are sponsored and only have to put a sticker on the car. no the parts maybe are not free but maybe discounted. Im sure when people see a nice looking car with a good engine that performs well are going to ask questions on where the crap came from,....but neways any advise is good advise...oh and boosted91 im gonna shoot u a friend request so u can lead me threw the parts for my car.. is that cool.... ill send u some pics and motor specs so u can help me out.

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If you are not going to be going to track alot with this car, then I say stay away from decals, stickers and what not! Hows theft in your area? Be thankful you dont live in Cali, I know 4 people who have had there Hondas stolen and never seen again! Thats why I say sleepers rule! :thumbsup:

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lol... dont worrie about it. im impressed with how much yall know about these cars. damn i wish i had just a little knowledge of that crap yall are talking about....lol... i know i have a nice car that is bad ass and really quick, but i want to push it to the limits. im looking for like mid 12,s i think im going to go ahead and get a turbo for it and get it tuned and put it on a dyno,and see what it has. oh and about the sponsors i see people all the time who are sponsored and only have to put a sticker on the car. no the parts maybe are not free but maybe discounted. Im sure when people see a nice looking car with a good engine that performs well are going to ask questions on where the crap came from,....but neways any advise is good advise...oh and boosted91 im gonna shoot u a friend request so u can lead me threw the parts for my car.. is that cool.... ill send u some pics and motor specs so u can help me out.

NP , have you taken the car to the track to see where it stands now? i would suggest you do that just so you can get a idea on what its making, while the ET may suck from wheel spin and no slicks its the trap speed that will stay pretty consistant and give you a idea how well its running.

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If you are not going to be going to track alot with this car, then I say stay away from decals, stickers and what not! Hows theft in your area? Be thankful you dont live in Cali, I know 4 people who have had there Hondas stolen and never seen again! Thats why I say sleepers rule! :thumbsup:

 

 

no theft isnt bad where i live... im actually going to cali on thurs and driving the car back sun... my dad lives in studio city.

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no theft isnt bad where i live... im actually going to cali on thurs and driving the car back sun... my dad lives in studio city.

 

regarless i think a sleeper is best, man the look on a mustang or vette owners face when that subtle looking honda smokes them is somthing i live for.

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NP , have you taken the car to the track to see where it stands now? i would suggest you do that just so you can get a idea on what its making, while the ET may suck from wheel spin and no slicks its the trap speed that will stay pretty consistant and give you a idea how well its running.

 

 

no im actually going to cali on thurs and driving the car back on sun... my dad lives in studio city...

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i will then.. if it is runnung thirteens is that good?

it wont run 13s if it did it would be better then good it would be a miracle. i venture to say on street tires if its a healthy set up and you can drive it decent you should hope for mid 14s. but regardless the ET isnt what you want to see its the best MPH it runs if its in the mid to high 90s thats real good lower then that means its tired.

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Not heresay. Contact darrinbrewer and he will be glad to prove it to you, you can probably find his results by searching on H-T. 13.2 in a heavy EH2 with stock gearing at 1,400 ft is good. Drop the full weight argument. If you can have 100+whp on someone, they can weigh less than you. Or they could have a full weight CRX HF versus a full weight Integra sedan.

 

He would beat you now as he is running the same engine with 10:1 pistons and a turbo setup. Last he ran before getting booted for no cage was a 11.77 having to shift into 5th because he was on his all motor slicks.

 

The car you need to race is an all motor D16A6 w/WDR trans and around 180whp.

 

Tire OD doesn't affect gearing, only imitates a final drive change. Do you really know much about gearing as you said all drag racers do? I went from a stock 17.7 to a 16.0 from gearing changes even after adding weight. That is with sub 100whp and craptastic 2.5 60's since I can't launch worth a damn. Another 80whp, lose 200-250pounds, .6-.7 off my 60' and change the FD to match the higher RPM with the added power and 3 seconds is very reasonable. Or I could do a BVTEC and gain around 140whp from what I have now, shorter gearing, and still weigh less than I do now. Since you haven't come up with a vid that shows you against an all motor car with a gear set I'm done with this debate for the time being.

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LMAO... WOW!!! even when your beat you still keep going. let me make this clear since you seem very very slow. SHOW ME A FULL WEIGHT STREET CAR MAKING 180 NA WHP THAT CAN RUN 12s . you said 180 na > 250 boosted right? RIGHT? that is a direct quote of what you said.. so keeping all else equal would only be fair, heck i even said your NA car can have a good gear set. listen close skippy no 180 whp NA car will stay with a 250 whp boosted car if they weigh the same i dont care what type of gears you give the na car. your pathetic argument about taking weight away is null and void. because we are talking about the thread starters car. you came into his thread and ran your mouth, this means you must adhere to logical comments that pertain to his question. WHICH i did, following my advice he does not have to gut his car, or get a expensive gear set . had he started a thread that said " help me make my car into a gutted fast car with a expensive gear set" i would not have bothered posting because unlike you , i don't flap my gums just to be heard and build post count. now sir i can see you clearly have nothing good to offer or say and i am to old and tired to listen to young punk narrow minded ricers like your self. i have added you to my ignore list because i loose IQ points just reading your crap. Good day sir.

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