alex37211 Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 What exactly won't fit under the hood of my eg? And couldn't I get a big cowl hood to make the whole thing fit? Has anyone ever done this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zimmy709 Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 all i can tell you for sure is that by b18c and hood are so close together that i cannot fit my fingers between them.... NOW, this may or may not tell you something... if the b20x and b18x have the same block with a different bore thn you should be cool, but if they actually have a longer stroke... hence a higher deck then i doubt it would fit with a stock hood, but i swear i have seen b20 swapped civics with stock hoods.... hope that is somewhat helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IVhorsemenmotorsports Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 all i can tell you for sure is that by b18c and hood are so close together that i cannot fit my fingers between them.... NOW, this may or may not tell you something... if the b20x and b18x have the same block with a different bore thn you should be cool, but if they actually have a longer stroke... hence a higher deck then i doubt it would fit with a stock hood, but i swear i have seen b20 swapped civics with stock hoods.... hope that is somewhat helpful it should fit no problem assuming you have the correct mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 I keep hearing that the intake manifold sticks up too far. If this is the case, could I just put on an LS intake man. and keep the same b20 head? Also, would there be any benefit to swaping an LS head onto the b20 block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currpt_God Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 if your going to swap the heads you might as well go with a vtec head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 I don't wanna do CRVTEC. I want a swap that's gonna last me 100k miles without having to worry about replacing a busted $1800 head a couple years down the road. That would really piss me off and I don't know if I'd be able to handle it. I've heard the b20/vtec's aren't that volitile, but I've also heard a lot of ppl say they are. I know the basic concept of rod /stroke ratio, but I don't know what it would end up as with a GSR head on there. All I know is that a CRV has a redline of what...like...5500? And the GSR is made to go a lot higher. I'm just not sure if they would get along as well as some say. And I don't want to dump a whole lot of cash into this either by building it up to withstand the higher RPMs. So back to my original question, what, if anything needs to be replaced on the complete B20 motor in order for me to mount it in my civic eg? Some one has told me that the B20Z intake manifold will fit but the B20B intake will not. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bark3rk20 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 I had a problem helping a friend with his b20b swap b/c he had the stock b20b large intake manifold and it wouldnt fit.. we had to swap it out for a b16 intake mainfold... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben. Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 My cousin had a '99 Civic EX with a b20 swap that fit beneath a stock hood, and then an OEM style carbon fiber hood. But, if you go CRVtec the head won't be what "busts". The paper thin cylinder walls would PROBABLY be what gave out first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 If you sleeve a b20 block then that fixs it's worst point then and a vtec head on a b20 will get you into the 100,000 mile mark no problem as long as you don't beat on the motor. No motor will last 100,000 miles if beat on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 how high is it sticking up can you tell, and have you tried taking out the hood webbing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bark3rk20 Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 how high is it sticking up can you tell, and have you tried taking out the hood webbing?? taking out the hood webbing wouldnt help.......we couldnt get the hood to close at all... we just decided to use a b16 intake instead..... I know if you buy this motor at some places it will give you an option to buy it with the stock large intake or buy one with a b18 intake...which should fit under the hood, but just dont take my word for it.....keep asking and see if anybody else says the same thing, we might have done something wrong... im about 99% postive about my answer tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 If you sleeve a b20 block then that fixs it's worst point then and a tec head on a b20 will get you into the 100,000 mile mark no problem as long as you don't beat on the motor. No motor will last 100,000 miles if beat on. Well what's the point of having VTEC if you're not going to use it? The VTEC doesn't even engage untill like 5,000 rpms (give or take) which is way high for that b20 block. The whole thing just makes me feel uncomfortable. And I don't want to spend the cheese to get the block sleeved. Does anyone know of any b20vtecs out there (unsleeved) that have a lot of miles on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bark3rk20 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Well what's the point of having VTEC if you're not going to use it? The VTEC doesn't even engage untill like 5,000 rpms (give or take) which is way high for that b20 block. The whole thing just makes me feel uncomfortable. And I don't want to spend the cheese to get the block sleeved. Does anyone know of any b20vtecs out there (unsleeved) that have a lot of miles on them? you can get a vtec timer which sets vtec change over to a lower point such as 4300 rpm. Correct me if im wrong anybody but the b20b/z for a cr-v was only made in an automatic setup which its tranny would change gears at 5500 rpms. If you change the tranny to manual, you can shift later. my friends shifts his at 6500-7000 and hasnt had a problem ith it YET. but then you got to think that these motors were not made to be raced/modifed unlike other b series motors sooo you got to wonder hoW long it will last... I have a complete b20 motor in my garage that I bought but decided not to use it because of this...but as long as you dont whoop on it i guess it will last a good while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Well what's the point of having VTEC if you're not going to use it? The VTEC doesn't even engage untill like 5,000 rpms (give or take) which is way high for that b20 block. The whole thing just makes me feel uncomfortable. And I don't want to spend the cheese to get the block sleeved. Does anyone know of any b20vtecs out there (unsleeved) that have a lot of miles on them? the block can handle the higher RPM's and stress the piston walls can't. If you want a strong motor then i'd go with the CRVtec build and a nice set of pistons and rods. The motor would be real strong and last well over your 100,000 mile mark. Also do you realy think you will have this car for 100,000 miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 the block can handle the higher RPM's and stress the piston walls can't. If you want a strong motor then i'd go with the CRVtec build and a nice set of pistons and rods. The motor would be real strong and last well over your 100,000 mile mark. Also do you realy think you will have this car for 100,000 miles? That's 6-7 years of driving for me. And I don't know if I'll want to keep the same setup for that long, but I just like the piece of mind that comes with owning a Honda. And I would like a motor that I CAN "beat on" if I please. I don't want to have a voice in the back of my head telling me to let off while I'm racing some one. I enjoy racing. I currently have a d15b7 in my hatch and I still try to race ppl just for fun. I just can't wait until I can actually beat some of them. I would sacrifice power for reliability for sure. I don't make enough "spending money " to replace engines all the time. The only reason I rag out my d15 (with 180k on it) is that I already have a back-up plan. I bought a wrecked 97 GSR. So could always go with the GSR swap. I'm only curious of the b20 swap because I know I can sell this gsr swap for a pretty penny and I can get that b20 for dirt cheap (I got the hookup at a junkyard). Plus, the GSR already has like 158k miles on it and I have no idea of the condition of it other than the fact that I started it and it sounds good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 were you located at. if you sell the GSR motor i know a couple people up and down the east coast looking for one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 were you located at. if you sell the GSR motor i know a couple people up and down the east coast looking for one. Nashville, TN But It's not for sale at the moment. I'm fairly certain I'm gonna go ahead and use it. I'm just not possitive. I guess if I were offered enough cash for it, I might bite, but don't these swaps go for around $2800 or so from hmotorsonline with like 40k miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kegger Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Well if your in Nashville watch out for a dark green teggy. That kid is running a CRVTEC on boost and it holds itself together. Not a single problem out of it in a year and a half. Thing frackin PULLS!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bark3rk20 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Well if your in Nashville watch out for a dark green teggy. That kid is running a CRVTEC on boost and it holds itself together. Not a single problem out of it in a year and a half. Thing frackin PULLS!!! hahaha I just talked to my friend about buying his dark green gsr and I have a b20 just sitting in my garage... I never even thought about that until now...... hmmmm..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 yea i think that crv vtec can be a bad ass setup as long as you do it rite and take all the risk and deal with them ahead of time so that you dont have to sacrifice power for reliability, just like me and the h2b setup im doing im my del sol, ive did all my homework and know that the h22 has similar problems like the b20 so i took my time and did things rite, and it will show when the car is running good for years to come...............see me in action soon jk im in iraq rite now hahahha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex37211 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 Well if your in Nashville watch out for a dark green teggy. That kid is running a CRVTEC on boost and it holds itself together. Not a single problem out of it in a year and a half. Thing frackin PULLS!!! Any other defining characteristics besides "dark green" that I should keep an eye out for? There are several green tegs round' these parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.