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A different swap.


Ben.

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So ladies and gents. I'm sorta' lookin' for a motor with more displacement. Obviously K20 and K24 are candidates if I end up with the money for a legal setup, as is the b20-vtec with a high compression setup.

 

But I'm also looking at H-series setups.

 

To be completely honest, I'm looking for cheap torque. Cheap torque I know I can get with the H22 motor. What I need to know is, and yes I'll do my research; but what I need to know is will there be any curve balls that will be needing to expect along the way if I so choose to go with an H-series setup? Obviously A/C and Powersteering are out.

 

Are they any mount kits in particular you guys would recommend? I'm looking at hmotorsonline for their setups.

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i know 2 K swaps for sale right now , one is 2600 , one is 3200 , full swap. K is gettng cheaper. i dont like H22 personally , you cant bore and rebuild them , which is gay. you buy an H22 , and simply use it till it wears out , lol.

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i know 2 K swaps for sale right now , one is 2600 , one is 3200 , full swap. K is gettng cheaper. i dont like H22 personally , you cant bore and rebuild them , which is gay. you buy an H22 , and simply use it till it wears out , lol.

 

well lets start off with the h swap. Get a mount kit from Hasport no exceptions. Make sure you get the vtec tranny for it not the f series tranny as the gears are tall. You can retain your power steering and a/c. For cheap torque you can get the h23 block but it's up to you. H22 swaps are really cheap, cheaper than a b-series swap but you do need more parts to complete the swap. K series would be cool but getting it ref'd will be difficult. The h you can get it ref'd so it will be legal in your car for smog. As far as the h2b adapter, i have seen it personally and in my opinion it will run into problems. Yes its a cool way to get the h in to your teg but the engine sits straight up, where the original position is slightly laid back. By having the engine staight up it is actually tilted towards the front of the car causing the oil in the head to run down towards the exhaust valve side. If the oil puddles enough you can start burning oil through the guides. Also the oil pan sump is tilted towards the front causing the oil to to lay to the front and not level with the pick up. (oil starvation). As far as being able to rebuild the h22 because of the sleeves, Mahle makes forged pistons to work with the fiber sleeves in the h22.

Okay, now for the b20vtec. If your car is a gsr that's even better (no need to get the vtec head). I would get a b20 block and rebuild it with the type-r spec pistons for the b20. (aussie made but distributed by Ericks Racing and RS Machine) Balance and blueprint the bottom end and put in a vtec oil pump. It would be cheaper as you will not need to buy mounts and such but its only a 2ltr compared to the 2.2 h22. If really cheap, cheap torque is what your looking for and not high revs, just get a b20 long block and some cams from Brian Crower. Hondata tune it. I have seen up to 180-190whp and 150+ft/lbs with no vtec. That would be the ticket plus cheap. block is 400. cams 350 hondata 195 tuning 300. Hope i didn't confuse you

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Not confused at all.

 

Cranny, what would you say about a k24 swap with k20 head, header, intake, catback system for it, k-pro, mounts, axles and tranny for 6400?

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What is an H series trans good for horsepower-wise before stuff starts breaking. assuming axles are up to par.

 

I've been looking and looking, but no where can I find a general number where you should start upgrading some internals.

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What is an H series trans good for horsepower-wise before stuff starts breaking. assuming axles are up to par.

 

I've been looking and looking, but no where can I find a general number where you should start upgrading some internals.

 

it would vary on how hard you launch it out of the hole. I have seen people make 700whp on the dyno and still use the factory tranny. they baby it out of the hole and mash on it on the top end.

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thats what im building , haha. Kpro is 1k. K24 shortblock-at least 400 bucks. you need tsx pistons at least to run the VTEC head-at least 100 bucks. unless the K24 bottom you get is a tsx(A2). exhaust and header-at least 1000 depending on what kind i guess. A2 head , say 1k for a good one fully dressed. A2 tranny , 1k. mount kit , at least 400 bucks. i dont know what kind of axles it comes with , but say 200 bucks. plus labor of puttin it together. little overpriced. id offer him 5500 bucks.

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Dunno. Seems to me like there is more room beneath the hood of an Integra. I say that because, unlike the Civic, if an H goes into an Integra, you CAN keep the air conditioning.

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a K series engine fits into a EG/EK/DC shell just as easy as it des the car it came in. actually , dur to cab forward design , the K20 fits better into your guys cars thn it does in mine. way more room. nothing need to be cut. mount kit and bolt it in. hybrid harness and it pplugs right in. with the right parts , its as bolt in as a B series.

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I am not talking about in terms of engine fitment. I am 99.9% that with both motors, the place where the shifter goes needs to be cut to fit. I read it in multiple H-series swap threads, it is the one factor that really steers people away.

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I am not talking about in terms of engine fitment. I am 99.9% that with both motors, the place where the shifter goes needs to be cut to fit. I read it in multiple H-series swap threads, it is the one factor that really steers people away.

 

 

well you can actually just mount the shifter box on the hump if you want but looks crappy. I would personally just cut it so I can put my stock console on it.

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