rushvillejdmracing Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 i need help guys i know about stock b18b's i have 2 one is in my car witch is a 1992 civic hb cx and the other one is in my room waiting for somthing to be done to it i need to know good combos for the b18b vtec or no vtec what pistons crank and all im trying to work on a buget of around 6,000 i also want to do noss and turbo let me know what you guys think any help would be grate help thanks Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civichatch201 Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 eagle all the way crank rods and arias pistons low comp. so you can run tons of boost as for running nitrous...(not noss) id stick with just the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 LSvtec with around a T3/T4, eagle rods, JE pistons, 440cc injectors maybe a little bigger, and get the head build. All that with hondata get it tunned it'd be a decent track car with nice street manners. After you should have some moeny left over for nitrous an nice intercooler and some other decent parts. That is if you can get some good deals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IVhorsemenmotorsports Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 LSvtec with around a T3/T4, eagle rods, JE pistons, 440cc injectors maybe a little bigger, and get the head build. All that with hondata get it tunned it'd be a decent track car with nice street manners. After you should have some moeny left over for nitrous an nice intercooler and some other decent parts. That is if you can get some good deals. Bottom end first: sleeve the block. get aftermarket rods and pistons. use the factory crank. Get a vtec oil pump and water pump. This all should be around $2000. Top end: vtec head with a stage 3 port job and stage 2 cams with valve train. edelbrock intake manifold. turbo wise a t3/t4 is good for about 450hp. If shooting for more get a bigger one. Management: Hondata s300 with 750cc- 1000cc injectors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rushvillejdmracing Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Bottom end first: sleeve the block. get aftermarket rods and pistons. use the factory crank. Get a vtec oil pump and water pump. This all should be around $2000.Top end: vtec head with a stage 3 port job and stage 2 cams with valve train. edelbrock intake manifold. turbo wise a t3/t4 is good for about 450hp. If shooting for more get a bigger one. Management: Hondata s300 with 750cc- 1000cc injectors the stock crank would be ok to use?? and wich rods and pistons could i use theres to many out there can you send me a link with the ones you'd use thanks man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IVhorsemenmotorsports Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 the stock crank would be ok to use?? and wich rods and pistons could i use theres to many out there can you send me a link with the ones you'd use thanks man stock crank has been good up to 1300hp so far. as far as rods go, you would need to decide how much power you want to make. same goes for the pistons. Be realistic about your power goals. Build it to be fun and reliable. brands, i would go with Wiseco for pistons and eagle for the rods even scat if i have a tight budget. If your looking for loads of power and money not a problem manley makes good ones. whats your actual goal with the car? all motor or forced induction? daily driver or track car? a/c? let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 B1 sleeved to 84m , than bored to match your new 85mm forged wiseco pistons. guarded. pistons will be hanging on new forged (even billet if you got a budget) , pauter rods. have your stock crank knife edged , balanced , polished , all that good stuff. new clevite bearings. type r head strapped to it. get your hands on a GT35R , peakboost topmount manny , 4" into 3" downpipe and 3" all the way out. run a P28 with hondata S200. pull it on a dyno till it looks someone drew your A/F line with a ruler , lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rushvillejdmracing Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 stock crank has been good up to 1300hp so far. as far as rods go, you would need to decide how much power you want to make. same goes for the pistons. Be realistic about your power goals. Build it to be fun and reliable. brands, i would go with Wiseco for pistons and eagle for the rods even scat if i have a tight budget. If your looking for loads of power and money not a problem manley makes good ones. whats your actual goal with the car? all motor or forced induction? daily driver or track car? a/c? let me know im looking to be a low 12 in the quarter mile hight 11s daily driver i really dont care about wicth way i go as far as all motor or forced induction as long as i can meat the 12s/11s in the quarter i do know that more power comes from the forced induction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 turbo , lol. or forget about it , unless your rich. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IVhorsemenmotorsports Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 turbo , lol. or forget about it , unless your rich. If you want a fast street car, build a b16 sleeved and machined to 84mm. Get the head done up and run a nice and efficient turbo system. I have seen some eg hatches with this setup on 10 psi making 300-350whp+. they run mid 11's all day long for over 4 years and counting still. I like all motor though, more respect for an engine builder. Most hp go turbo. you can build a b20 vtec and run mid to low 12's in it on the motor. Or a k, but all depends on money......3500-4500 dollars for a b20 vtec to run the number all motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben. Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 B1 sleeved to 84m , than bored to match your new 85mm forged wiseco pistons. guarded. pistons will be hanging on new forged (even billet if you got a budget) , pauter rods. have your stock crank knife edged , balanced , polished , all that good stuff. new clevite bearings. type r head strapped to it. get your hands on a GT35R , peakboost topmount manny , 4" into 3" downpipe and 3" all the way out. run a P28 with hondata S200. pull it on a dyno till it looks someone drew your A/F line with a ruler , lol. Dude, someone in town has that exact setup with a very VERY conservative tune in a 93 hatch. Car dyno'd 430fwhp @ 5,800 rpm and he had to cut it out at 7. Car is allegedly supposed to run to about 10K safely and still make power. Haven't seen it yet but it sounds like it could be so. His exhaust is a 4" downpipe dumped straight to the ground. Took me for a ride in it and it was made painfully clear that a b16 tranny's gears were WAY too close for that setup LOL. ANOTHER guy in town has a k24 setup with cams, k-pro, i/h/e, 125 shot and slicks that went 12.12 with crapty track prep last weekend. He's wanting to go as soon as possible to see if he can breach 11's. This is in a 95 Civic hatch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cranny Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 thats my setup busted , thats the setup i will be running almost exactly as soon as i piece it together. K24 shortblock = 300 bucks CP 12.5:1 , 87.5mm forged pistons = seen as low as $400 on sites NIB eagle H rods = 300 bucks IPS K2 cams with factory combo valvetrain and titanium retainers close the deck in. i was thinking about doing a little headwork myself , mostly cleanup. not sure of strength of shotyet , but i have a ZEX wet kit for this summer comming. im currently shopping for Kpro with money in hand , should have it within couple weeks. just bought a revo short shifter box , adjustable from stock throw to 40% reduced. buddy of ine with an M3 wants to line up this summer , lol. among many others , should be fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight civic Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 I personally like N/A motors. Quicker acceleration and higher reving. I went high compression with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 I personally like N/A motors. Quicker acceleration and higher reving. I went high compression with mine. where did you get that information. i've seen boosted motors out accelerate, and out rev N/A motors. I've seen both 9+K rpm N/A and boosted motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delsol209 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 so then wat setup is better overall for reliability, performance, and budget wise??? NA or FI?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight civic Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Ya there is some that can and will out accelerate and out rev an all motor car.... I dunno I like N/A motors more.... It's harder to get the higher numbers, thus more rewarding in the end.... to me atleast.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatch92 Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 i'll take a good boosted setup over an N/A setup anyday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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