2001 civic in look of help

[JsRedlineRacer]

ok heres the deal im undecisive on how much to drop it so that i can have minimal space between tire and the car as you can see stock isn't working for me(rims looked photoshoped. Wondering how much i should drop it, will i need camber arrangement, what will i need to get it dropped and be riding niceley regularly.

 

2. im not shure which intake to go with to obtain a good amount of HP not waiste over 200 for some K&N with a gain of 5.5(ridiculos)

 

3. and most importantly i want to get a catback but want to get something that wont make my car too loud was thinking greddy but not shure which one i should go for (i need suggestions bad on this topic seeing as how it will most likely be my next mod.)

 

Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated(future mod suggestions looks etc.)

[Repsol]

Love the color of it. Wouldn't look bad if it was slammed. Nice ride man.

[MP-03RSXR]

1. What you want is almost impossible to obtain. If you want very little space between tire and fender, then you have to do one of these things:

-Drop the car very low- which will require a solid camber kit, and in my opinion a good full set of adjustable coil overs (lowering springs are cheap and suck).

-Fill the space with a much larger rim and very thin low profile tire (this will make your ride extremely rough and very expensive to get rims that large- also, it will affect your speed reading- once your rims/tires are too large you won't read speed accurately).

-Fill the space with a moderately larger rim and tire... try to find the best balance you can. I have 17" rims with appropriate tires and it fills in really good (but also takes away from a smooth ride)

In short- dropping the car and converting to low profile tires is going to kill your "comfortable ride." Any decent drop- over a couple inches will require a camber kit- otherwise you'll be wearing the insides of your tires like nothing other (I have that problem right now and I'm about to buy a Skunk2 Pro Series Plus camber kit- I already have a Skunk2 Pro Series S Full Coil Over system)- it's a very hard, bumpy ride... but I gain a lot of handling performance... so it's a trade off: performance/handling vs. comforatbility.

 

2. I'd suggest AEM or Injen for performance and quality... Ebay a RAM air or full cold air intake and you should be able to get one under 200.

 

3. For exhausts- you need to look up exhaust clips yourself- everyone on here will tell you that this or that exhaust is the best- everyone has different opinions on what's loud/quiet, what's good/bad. Research everything yourself- performance gains vs. price vs. sound and then choose what you like best. I have a Tanabe Hyper Medallion on my Civic and I'm very happy... and a T1R 70mm on my RSX and I love that too- but they are very different sounds.

 

These guys have pictures and some sound clips on some exhausts: http://www.customcarscentral.com/categorie...ls-exhaust.html

Here's another that's got a decent list with some sound clips:

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/artic...p?ArticleID=451

[Repsol]

For exhaust, whatever you do. Do not get rid of the cat. It sounds like ass.

[MP-03RSXR]

For exhaust, whatever you do. Do not get rid of the cat. It sounds like ass.

 

Here come the opinions... sorry, but the comment above is very general and dumb...

1. Getting rid of the Cat is illegal (luckily in some states- NM- we don't have inspections- that being said, I have a test-pipe)

2. Putting a test-pipe with an O2 bung will have less restriction;it won't affect how your car runs and will add small hp/torque gains.

3. With a test-pipe, the car actually sounds better because there's more air flow to your muffler/exhaust tip...

 

If you (Repsol) have a problem with it sounding like crap then there's something wrong with your exhaust system- like a hole/leak- that will make it sound like crap... but if you have a full catback system and a test-pipe hooked up right, it sounds just as good and will run a little better with a catback/test-pipe setup than a cat conv in there. There's no noticeable change in exhaust output- nothing noticable to sight/smell either.

[JsRedlineRacer]

thanks Repsol it was actually pretty dropped when i bought it with a pair of H&R springs that i still have laying arround but it was gonna run like 280 just to fix cambry kits so i decided to go with a set of stock springs and shocks(200 for both) for the meanwhile cuz the shocks on the car were blown.

 

rims that it has on now are 17s with 215 tires(i was thinking eibach 1" lower all arround but im not shure)

(any pricing on how much it would run more or less to get a nice little drop without sacrificing to much of the ride comfort. I ride with my family every now and hen i dont want to hear them Bit**ing)

 

if i get my tires nitrogen filled will it ride better?

 

maybe put in 230 to make the spacing smaller?

 

was looking through the links u gave me and the Greddy Evo and SP sound like what im looking for.(is there like a buy sell trade in these forums where someone might have it?

 

 

srry im a huge noob that is trying to get a hold of the DIY process

[cranny]

i highly recommend a K swap , lol.

[JsRedlineRacer]

lol who wouldnt want a k swap but its easier said than done that involves bigger money. the only way i would go ahead and k-swap it is if this motor gives out on me but only then

[Ben.]

For exhaust, whatever you do. Do not get rid of the cat. It sounds like ass.

 

No Dylan a catless system with a crapty axleback sounds like ass. Anything else is great.

[JsRedlineRacer]

for the noob dictionary

axleback:?

will it come with the exhaust or will i have to purchase separately?

[wannaBstuntin]

for the noob dictionary

axleback: exhaust system from the catylytic converter-back, all the way to the exhaust tip. also referred to as axle-back because the cat is up by the front axle.

in front of that is the header and downpipe, another common performance mod.

 

I had the Eibach 1" springs, and also had 17" rims on my '01 Civic. Unfortunately I don't have any pics from after the lowering. Oh wait, maybe I do, but not one you can see the lowering very well.

It didn't look too much lower, because there was still a decent gap, but the ride quality and handling was much improved. I also had Koni Yellow struts though.

Just this pic:

 

Also had both AEM short ram and cold air. When I got the cold air one on, big difference in sound. Much better . But AEM is gonna cost alot. Get the short ram if you want to save money. That will help in the lower rpm range. CAI helps in the high rpms.

Edited December 26, 2007 by wannaBstuntin

[MP-03RSXR]

if i get my tires nitrogen filled will it ride better?

 

No... nitrogen is used because it doesn't leak as easy as air- the molecules are larger so you don't lose tire pressure as easily/as often as you would with just air. It's also used because it doesn't expand in heat or compress (I don't think compress is the word I want here, I'm drawing a blank, but it's 4:45am) in cold weather as much as air does- it's stabler through cold and hot temperature ranges. Maybe it'll help a tiny bit on really cold days or very hot days... but it's not that much of a difference as far as daily ride quality.

[JsRedlineRacer]

i have a set of H&R springs and i really liked they way it was dropped with those. what would i have to buy as far as to make them ride batter and not eat up the tire like they did before i bought the car.

 

So far i know

--i will most likely need after market shocks not sure what to look for though.--$?

--Change the camber kits--$280

--ive been looking around and there is other things you change when you lower the car(but not sure what they are)--$?

 

Thanks for the info MP

Thanks WBS you wouldnt by any chance have those projector headlights and intake would you? im looking to buying one but if i could get it used it would be better thanks

[Ben.]

Axle back is a muffler with enough piping to work it's way over the rear control arms/axles to hook up to your OEM stuff.

 

And it will come with an exhaust SYSTEM. Thus the term SYSTEM.

Edited December 27, 2007 by busted ls1

[Hatch92]

a good suspension setup will ride great even when lowered. nitrogen isn't affected by temperatures as bad as compressed air.

 

I'd go with a full coil-over setup. keep the cat just buy a high flow one, with a nice catback. as for an intake go with Injen or AEM. hell even an ebay intake would work good.

[wannaBstuntin]

i have a set of H&R springs and i really liked they way it was dropped with those. what would i have to buy as far as to make them ride batter and not eat up the tire like they did before i bought the car.

Just get some struts and it'll be fine.

 

--i will most likely need after market shocks not sure what to look for though.--$?

anything really...tell us what you're looking at and what price and we'll tell you if its a good deal.

 

you wouldnt by any chance have those projector headlights and intake would you?

That car got smashed by some stupid ^%$%& ^%^&%^ ^&*#^#%* girl.

So I don't have anything from it. Insurance just paid me for most of it and took it.

However, I do still have a pair of headlights similar to those that never got put on. The Honda dealership tried and supposedly told me they didn't fit.

One has a scuff on it from the way they were stored on top of each other.

Here's pics:

I tried to show the scuff in this pic

Maybe they wouldn't fit because they were for an EX and mine was an LX or something but another member said they looked like another (older) year's model.

Let me know if you'd be interested cuz I just want to get rid of them for cheap. They're taking up space.

[JsRedlineRacer]

yea im interested are they HID projectors or just regular projectors and what sizeis bulb?(if HID im interested) cuz as u can see right now i have 10k hids on top and they bulb size=9003.either way let me know a price(srry bout ur car bro)

i had been taking a look at these HID projectors

 

i have no idea what shock what brand or anything like that. was hoping you guys could push me towards a certain brand or help me see which one will be best

 

any good?

 

is this better?

 

should i get this?

 

thanks to everyone for their replies

Edited December 29, 2007 by JsRedlineRacer

[wannaBstuntin]

I don't know anything about the lights man. They aren't HIDs though. They are just what the body shop ordered when some (other) idiot backed up into my car once.

They took too long to do the bodywork so I never had them put the headlights in at all.

Then when I took them to the dealership, they said they didn't fit.

They're out in the garage right now so if I get a chance tomorrow, I'll take a look at them.

Obviously I don't need them anymore and they have that scuff so I'm not gonna try to screw you. I just want to get rid of them honestly. So I'd sell for like $20 + shipping.

 

The HID link doesn't work.

The next (and last) link are the same thing ...anyways, those are strut bars...not what you want....thats for added handling, but you dont need them.

 

Here's the two options you have: Struts and springs (they can be all the same brand or two diff brands, doesn't matter really)

or full coilovers which is like springs already mounted on struts.

 

Either way, it's probably going to cost about the same. If you already have a set of springs then that saves you some money.

 

The middle link (Tokico) is a very good brand....Koni, Eibach, APexi, Skunk2, KYB, Bilstein....there's lots....

You're pretty much going to get what you pay for in quality.

 

Like I said, I had Koni Yellows which were suggested to me with Eibach Pro springs....this time around I'm going to go Eibach coilovers though. The Konis were great, it's just I'd simply rather get a full coilover than a mish-mosh of different parts/brands this time (I still have my Eibach sway bar kit).

Plus the Konis are expensive!

Edited December 29, 2007 by wannaBstuntin

[wannaBstuntin]

K, so in the front it says:

VOL R DOT SAE AHRIPP2 98KS-HD301

 

I'm guessing

VOL = brand

R = right

DOT SAE AHRIPP2 = compliant

98KS-HD301 = model number

 

so all we gotta do is find out what that model fits...

 

There's also a sticker on the back side that says:

2006Y

B0028

 

I'm guessing that's bulb numbers.

Edited December 30, 2007 by wannaBstuntin

[wannaBstuntin]

Bump