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tim01customs

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Hondata..Crome..

 

Whatever floats your boat. Most of it does the same thing.

 

As for the build aspect of it, you better be putting some new components in there..low compression pistons, stronger rods..shotpeen the crank and all that jibber-jabber. You boost 20psi on a stockblock D-series and you're gonna LOOOOOOVE having to clean up the parts trail you've left behind.

Edited by busted ls1
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Hondata..Crome..

 

Whatever floats your boat. Most of it does the same thing.

 

As for the build aspect of it, you better be putting some new components in there..low compression pistons, stronger rods..shotpeen the crank and all that jibber-jabber. You boost 20psi on a stockblock D-series and you're gonna LOOOOOOVE having to clean up the parts trail you've left behind.

 

i have debird the block have a forged crank that can hold 650hp eagle H beam rods 8.5.1 pistons medium drade race bearings multilayer head gasket head studs(APR) studs d16cam port polished the head bushinged the stock valve springs and cut the valve guide downe a little fore spring clearance this bumped the valve spring compression about 20lbs so i dont float a valve at max 7500 rpm and i polished my cam and crank i am puting a turbo on it with a T3 63turbine Exhaust side and a T4 50tturbine compressor side and header 3in down pipe highflow cat and out the back. so thats about all ive done so far.

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i agree. crome or hondata. hondata is roughly 650 with dyno time. Flat rate fee for dyno is 300 and the hondata if you supply the ecu is 295 for s200

 

yea i dont really have the money for hondada i need something in the price range of like $300 for fuel management if i can get something that price that will work deasene for the job do u know of any thing deasent fore that kind of money thanks guys

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i have debird the block have a forged crank that can hold 650hp eagle H beam rods 8.5.1 pistons medium drade race bearings multilayer head gasket head studs(APR) studs d16cam port polished the head bushinged the stock valve springs and cut the valve guide downe a little fore spring clearance this bumped the valve spring compression about 20lbs so i dont float a valve at max 7500 rpm and i polished my cam and crank i am puting a turbo on it with a T3 63turbine Exhaust side and a T4 50tturbine compressor side and header 3in down pipe highflow cat and out the back. so thats about all ive done so far.

 

 

chrome would probably be the cheapest but you will still need dyno time. as far as shimmong the valve spring for more pressure did you verify the spring installed height for the valve springs? By shimming it your setting the spring closer to the retainer. You get the extra pressure but run the chance of coil bind. what type of shim did you use and where did you place it? the factory crank is forged and i have seen them personally hold up to 750whp without breaking. Honda parts are good. also remember to put a little more clearance in the piston to wall and the rod bearings if you plan on running a lot of boost. hope that helps

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chrome would probably be the cheapest but you will still need dyno time. as far as shimmong the valve spring for more pressure did you verify the spring installed height for the valve springs? By shimming it your setting the spring closer to the retainer. You get the extra pressure but run the chance of coil bind. what type of shim did you use and where did you place it? the factory crank is forged and i have seen them personally hold up to 750whp without breaking. Honda parts are good. also remember to put a little more clearance in the piston to wall and the rod bearings if you plan on running a lot of boost. hope that helps

 

 

yea i made shure that i hade good clearance in the valve springe im curently at Wyotech the automotive college in HP(high performance) so im using the hp specs that they recomend for spring clearance im not sure what that is right off hand but they were withen that spec. as fore what type of shim i used it is a piece of steel(heat treated) that i turned down on our lath to make them all the same and i placed them at the bottom of the spring im actualy using the stock crank its told frome what ive seen to hold atleast 650hp so i desided to keep it.as for my piston clearance i have exsactly .004 thousandths that might be a little much but im going to try it.but why do u need the extra clearancre for boost?all my pistons are a hyperutectic cast piston do u think they will do the job. thanks guys

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cast pistons little more prone to tuning issues and detonation for high ower engines. or let say , noone would use anything but forged for high power engines. do yourself a favor , dont try and hack together a valvetrain please , specially with a newly rebuilt engine. your asking for a dropped valve. litte more clearance most likely hes saying cause of the heat involved in boosted engines. but if your using high silicon forged pistons , they swell and contract less than lower silicon. high silicon are not as strong as low , but low silicon you need extra clearance to allow for the expanding when they heat up , and they burn oil when cold and other little quirks.

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cast pistons little more prone to tuning issues and detonation for high ower engines. or let say , noone would use anything but forged for high power engines. do yourself a favor , dont try and hack together a valvetrain please , specially with a newly rebuilt engine. your asking for a dropped valve. litte more clearance most likely hes saying cause of the heat involved in boosted engines. but if your using high silicon forged pistons , they swell and contract less than lower silicon. high silicon are not as strong as low , but low silicon you need extra clearance to allow for the expanding when they heat up , and they burn oil when cold and other little quirks.

 

 

if your using the hyperutectic piston then the clearence you used .004 is too much and would burn a lot of oil and rattle bad. The factory honda pistons are the same material and the factory specs on those are .0004-.0016 from the factory manual. Forged pistons are usually .003 depending on the material. As far as the extra clearance, cranny and I are on the same page. Heat! Metal expands with heat especially boosted and running for a long period of time. The extra clearance on the rod bearings is to provide a thicker amount of oil to cushion the rod. The rod bearings actually float on the crankshaft with the oil as a separater. When that flim of oil collaspses then the bearing meets the crank. More clearance use a thicker oil.

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yea i made shure that i hade good clearance in the valve springe im curently at Wyotech the automotive college in HP(high performance) so im using the hp specs that they recomend for spring clearance im not sure what that is right off hand but they were withen that spec. as fore what type of shim i used it is a piece of steel(heat treated) that i turned down on our lath to make them all the same and i placed them at the bottom of the spring im actualy using the stock crank its told frome what ive seen to hold atleast 650hp so i desided to keep it.as for my piston clearance i have exsactly .004 thousandths that might be a little much but im going to try it.but why do u need the extra clearancre for boost?all my pistons are a hyperutectic cast piston do u think they will do the job. thanks guys

 

did you put that shim under the spring seat or on top of it? it should have went under the spring seat

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did you put that shim under the spring seat or on top of it? it should have went under the spring seat

 

 

yep i put under the seat. well i got to thinking about what u guys were saying about using a cast piston so i just baught a new set of forged supertech pistons that are 8.8.1 comp i figured they would do the job fore me what do u think about them? also fore fuel i got a great deal on an apexi s-fmu management system i got it fore really like 5$ so i baught it and it was working to so do u think it will do the job for the fuel if im using 450cc injectors.the only thing i dont have for it is the wiring diagram.

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yep i put under the seat. well i got to thinking about what u guys were saying about using a cast piston so i just baught a new set of forged supertech pistons that are 8.8.1 comp i figured they would do the job fore me what do u think about them? also fore fuel i got a great deal on an apexi s-fmu management system i got it fore really like 5$ so i baught it and it was working to so do u think it will do the job for the fuel if im using 450cc injectors.the only thing i dont have for it is the wiring diagram.

 

 

are you just refering to the FMU or did it come with an ecu? The fmu in y opinion is junk unless the vehicle is only boosting 5 psi or below. Spend the money on a management unit. Best to spend more now than twice more later. Good move on the forged pistons. If the apex is a piggyback system i would not use it if you plan to boost more then 8 psi. Piggybacks trick the ecu in order to deliver less or more fuel but in turn the factory ecu alters cam timing when you mess with the fuel adjustment. To get the 450cc to run on the lower range properly you would lean out the mixture and in turn the ecu automatically advances the timing. Boosted cars don't like advanced timing. hope that helps.

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don't forget about the fuel pump...too big injectors with not enough balls behind the fuel pump will tear it up... i never swapped out cranks in any of my motor rebuilds, the stock crank is more than enough, plus it's fitted to the block nice and neat, i would just make sure to plastigauge the main caps and bearings to be sure about your tourques... also i sleeved my blocks before putting boost behind 'em, unless i was only pushing 7 psi's. hypereutectics are great for all motor purposes, (i.e. cheap, strong, heat reflective properties) but for turbo definetly go forged...

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the only time ive ever used an aftermarket crank was a type r engine i built for a guy not long ago , his oem crank was damaged beyond repair , so he bought an eagle crank.

Edited by cranny
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