Stock internal with turbo

[CleanGSR]

Well apparently you should just run the smallest turbo that can handle 8-9 psi. If it's all the same then you should get something uber-tiny and you'll have no lag and the same whp as a bigger turbo. Hell if what everyone says is true then a T25 is too big for 8-9psi.

[CleanGSR]

pyro (EDIT: and IVhorse..) already said it...efficiency!

 

OP, get a good dyno tune...and...run a bit rich to not get it all heated...

 

useful post (6th one from top) I found a while ago when I was researching for my future car...

 

Effeciency? That means that if one is more effecient at 9psi than the other, then it will flow more air produce more power. Therefore 9psi isn't 9psi......well technically it is, but the results aren't always gonna be the same.

 

According to this info I'd like to know why anybody in their right mind would use a T3/T04E instead of a straight T3 when boosting 10psi or less? The T3 will have less lag and will flow the same at 10psi as a T3/TO4e, GT28rs, etc...... Isn't that what you are saying.

 

I'm seriously trying to understand this point of view, but saying "effeciency" doesn't explain crap. Throwing effeciency in the equation just proves my point that two different turbo's won't flow the same (be the same effeciency) as each other and hp can vary........so again,

 

explain the huge difference between the greddy kit and rev hard or peakboost kits? It's not getting all that extra power from mere piping changes so....how does the different turbo not play a role in this?

[Miamishatchback02]

ok then can anyone help me cuz u all talking about the turbos and noone has told me what turbo should i use in my sohc on about 8psi or 9psi to push around 250whp to 300whp

[Pyrorocketeer]

heat produced due to compression hung. now, you can say "well if both compress air to 10psi they will have the same amount of heat induced" (Ideal gas law). butttt....

 

lets say you spin a fan. you can have one fan spin at 5000rpm's and displace 100cfm. or you could spin a smaller fan at 10000 rpms and still produce 100cfm. now, since the little one has to spin twice as fast as the big one, the blades are "chopping" up more of the air. friction with the air causes heat. more heat induced= less power.

[IVhorsemenmotorsports]

Effeciency? That means that if one is more effecient at 9psi than the other, then it will flow more air produce more power. Therefore 9psi isn't 9psi......well technically it is, but the results aren't always gonna be the same.

 

According to this info I'd like to know why anybody in their right mind would use a T3/T04E instead of a straight T3 when boosting 10psi or less? The T3 will have less lag and will flow the same at 10psi as a T3/TO4e, GT28rs, etc...... Isn't that what you are saying.

 

I'm seriously trying to understand this point of view, but saying "effeciency" doesn't explain crap. Throwing effeciency in the equation just proves my point that two different turbo's won't flow the same (be the same effeciency) as each other and hp can vary........so again,

 

explain the huge difference between the greddy kit and rev hard or peakboost kits? It's not getting all that extra power from mere piping changes so....how does the different turbo not play a role in this?

 

different turbos do make different power changes in different parts of the power band. On a t25 the efficiency drops down as the boost rises. You can only flow so much before the exhaust housing becomes the restriction. The impellar of the turbo can also move so much air with the angles of the blades. That is one of the ways that different turbos will make more power than others at the same boost setting. If you lessen the backpressure of the exhaust housing you will decrease the lag time of the turbo. Like when you blow on a pin wheel when you were a kid. The harder you blow the faster the wheel moves, now blow the same and put your hand at the end of the wheel and you get less speed on the wheel. You just created backpressure.

[CleanGSR]

heat produced due to compression hung. now, you can say "well if both compress air to 10psi they will have the same amount of heat induced" (Ideal gas law). butttt....

 

lets say you spin a fan. you can have one fan spin at 5000rpm's and displace 100cfm. or you could spin a smaller fan at 10000 rpms and still produce 100cfm. now, since the little one has to spin twice as fast as the big one, the blades are "chopping" up more of the air. friction with the air causes heat. more heat induced= less power.

 

THANK YOU. You proved my point and didn't even realize it. My original point (for recap)

 

9psi is not going to be the same results on a small turbo as a large turbo and:

 

PSI is not what determines what your motor can handle, it's the amount of hp it can handle.

 

Now...to explain how you proved my point....in one word.....

 

DENSITY

 

9psi from an 18g is the same as 9psi from a GT35? Nope. As you said, 9psi from the 18g is going to produce a much hotter 9psi and hotter air is less dense, thus less oxygen.

 

18g = 9psi of hot air = 9psi with lower oxygen content

GT35 = 9psi of cooler air = 9psi with higher oxygen content

 

So.......as my orignial post said, you'll get different power numbers from different turbo's at the same psi. Yes, they're introducing the same air, but drastically different densitites. So the higher density of 6 psi from a larger turbo will yield similar oxygen content of the 8-9psi (hotter) lower density, smaller turbo.

 

It's the amount of oxygen that matters, not necessarily the amount of air.

 

So back to the OP, you need to figure out what horsepower goals you want to hit, then pick a setup from there. If you get a smaller turbo, it may take more psi to get to your goal than a bigger turbo, but on such a conservative hp goal, I'd reccomend a smaller turbo like a T3 and have it tuned conservitavely at whatever psi makes your hp goal.

[lceah]

What I believe:

 

If there was no difference between a small turbo and a large one, the manufacturers would not bother wasting their time or materials...

 

You can have two different turbos at same psi but they will have different cfm’s.

 

A big turbo and small turbo can stay at same psi because the wastegate controls the exhaust flow across the turbine. The wastegate makes different turbos stay at the same psi by letting go of the excess air and letting the pressure stay the same!

 

Now, a larger turbo will give more air or oxygen (at low rpms) so more air into cylinders and more power and the turbo efficiency is up because it doesn’t have to work hard (at the psi) so it’s spinning more slowly! The smaller turbo has to spin faster to get the same air in (that’s why small turbos have little lag...they are quick at first) but the problem with the small turbo is that it chokes the engine at the exhaust side so you have so much heat building up that causes the efficiency to drop. Efficiency is work/heat (work divided by heat) so the more heat is built up, the less efficient the turbo so the less power you get!

 

also, the turbo can't just pick only the oxygen molecules to push through, so it has to get more air to get more oxygen...

 

original poster, do you want little lag so at low rpms you are getting a quick resonse from your turbo or car? then go with a small turbo...if you want the turbo to help in the mid to high's ish then get a big tubo...but with stock internals, stay with low psi's...

[Miamishatchback02]

THANK YOU. You proved my point and didn't even realize it. My original point (for recap)

 

9psi is not going to be the same results on a small turbo as a large turbo and:

 

PSI is not what determines what your motor can handle, it's the amount of hp it can handle.

 

Now...to explain how you proved my point....in one word.....

 

DENSITY

 

9psi from an 18g is the same as 9psi from a GT35? Nope. As you said, 9psi from the 18g is going to produce a much hotter 9psi and hotter air is less dense, thus less oxygen.

 

18g = 9psi of hot air = 9psi with lower oxygen content

GT35 = 9psi of cooler air = 9psi with higher oxygen content

 

So.......as my orignial post said, you'll get different power numbers from different turbo's at the same psi. Yes, they're introducing the same air, but drastically different densitites. So the higher density of 6 psi from a larger turbo will yield similar oxygen content of the 8-9psi (hotter) lower density, smaller turbo.

 

It's the amount of oxygen that matters, not necessarily the amount of air.

 

So back to the OP, you need to figure out what horsepower goals you want to hit, then pick a setup from there. If you get a smaller turbo, it may take more psi to get to your goal than a bigger turbo, but on such a conservative hp goal, I'd reccomend a smaller turbo like a T3 and have it tuned conservitavely at whatever psi makes your hp goal.

 

 

well iam trying to get around 250whp to 300whp on my newly rebuild stock with only shaved port and polish head sohc vtec motor so what u all recomend me to get then for that?

[lceah]

Hung, that's true about having more power with bigger turbo (staying at same psi)...

 

I wasn't clear with efficiency before, but I explained it in my last post...

 

the thing about "anybody in their right mind using bigger tubo": it's true that the small turbo will have little lag and be quick BUT the small turbo will be less efficient because of more heat (efficiency = work/heat) so it will make less power...

[CleanGSR]

also, the turbo can't just pick only the oxygen molecules to push through, so it has to get more air to get more oxygen...

 

This is the most incorrect statement that's been posted in a long time. You DO NOT have to push more air to get more oxygen. There's 2 ways to get more oxygen...

 

1. More air overall

2. Same amount of air, but colder air.

 

Colder air is more dense and has more oxygen. So for example X amount of air at 0 degrees will have much more oxygen than X (same amount) of air at 100 degrees.

 

Sure, the turbo can't pick just the oxygen, but if it can push a certain psi while remaining cooler than a different turbo, then it will be adding more oxygen at that psi.

 

It seems like you aren't getting the concept of colder, denser air containing more oxygen than hotter, less dense air.

[lceah]

Colder air is more dense and has more oxygen. So for example X amount of air at 0 degrees will have much more oxygen than X (same amount) of air at 100 degrees.

 

Sure, the turbo can't pick just the oxygen, but if it can push a certain psi while remaining cooler than a different turbo, then it will be adding more oxygen at that psi.

 

It seems like you aren't getting the concept of colder, denser air containing more oxygen than hotter, less dense air.

 

Wrong!

More dense=more air molecules...you still have about 21% Oxygen and then whatever percentage Nitrogen and other molecules...

 

The percentage of Oxygen to total air doesn't change...you have more oxygen because you have more air...

 

example: in 1 cubic feet of air, you have 21% Oxygen so 0.21 cubic feet of pure Oxygen

in 5 cubic feet of air, you have 21% Oxygen so 1.05 cubic feet of pure Oxygen

 

Now if pressure goes down, you get less Oxygen only because there is less air...

[CleanGSR]

I never said that the percentage of oxygen changed. But the total molecules of oxygen in 1 cf of air cold air is a larger amount than the total molecules of oxygen in 1 cf of warmer air. I never said anything about the percentage of oxygen in the air I'm just saying that the more dense, the more molecules that can be fit into a space.....oxygen being the only important molecule in this situation being the reason that I only spoke of oxygen. I mis-understood your saying "more air" to mean higher volume and didn't realize that you meant more air per volume, hence more dense.

[lceah]

sorry I was unclear...I meant more air per volume...

[CleanGSR]

I gothca now. Makes sense. We were basically saying the same thing just in different ways.

[lceah]

yup and it's funny, I'm looking for a gsr right now...and I've been thinking maybe turboing it...

[Hatch92]

i just enjoy reading the 2 of you post. i've been readin up on alot of compressor maps and the whole "scientific" way to look at boosting my gsr when i pick it up in march april.

[MP-03RSXR]

"How much boost you can run is not determined by the psi, it's determined by the amount of hp the motor can handle.

 

If person A runs 14psi and 200whp on one turbo

and person B runs 10psi and 200whp on a different turbo

the stress on the motor will be the same."

 

If you're going to reply, don't be a dumbass about it. 10 PSI = 10 PSI period. You're getting into efficiency and air flow... that has nothing to do with PSI... PSI= Pounds Per Square Inch of pressure (how much air is being compressed in a limited area of space)... more PSI = more density which is more compression (why do you think you need lower compression ratio for turbo setups! DUH!) or in Lehman's term = BIGGER BOOM/MORE POWER- the explosion of gas/compressed air is more violent when the air is more dense (that's why you want COLD air because it's more DENSE= more HP). Running 1 car at 14 PSI to MAKE 200WHP is A LOT MORE STRESS ON YOUR ENGINE than a car running at 10 PSI with a different turbo. The fact that you have to push 14PSI into the engine to make it reach 200WHP means you're smashing more air into less space just to make the same power that 10 PSI can (that's called EFFICIENCY). So yea... tell me how PSI doesn't matter? Because according to your logic I can: get a EFFICIENT turbo and run it at 5 PSI and then get a average/decently EFFICIENT turbo and run it at 35 PSI to make the same HP. Notice: there are different size turbo kits- like stage 1/2/3 because you CANNOT put something like 14 PSI into a stock engine- it's TOO MUCH PRESSURE- you'll end up throwing your rod right through your block because of all the pressure- it creates a more violent explosion (or combustion) and throws the rotating parts of the engine at higher velocities. As someone mentioned- yes- a Greddy stage 1 kit doesn't make near as much power as other kits- and that's due to efficiency (air flow speeds)... not due to a different PSI in the chamber. More PSI means more stress on the engine components regardless of what HP you measure.

 

My original post is in strict reference to PSI... of course different turbos are more/less efficient than others, but if you measure 10 PSI going into the chamber, it's the SAME amount of air (or PSI) whether it's a T3/4 or a GT35. If some people want to be douches about it, I can argue that it also depends on your climate (high atlitude vs. low altitude, ambient air temp, intercooler efficiency... other things like spark plug efficiency, your car's grounding system, etc.) and so on... I can make your head spin with crap you probably couldn't even think of. I would argue (from my knowledge) that PSI is a decent measurement of what your engine can and can't handle- why do you think it's generally stated that most stock engines can handle 6-8PSI? It's not about how much HP your engine can handle... how could it be? Horsepower is a MEASUREMENT of the power CREATED by the ENGINE (just like torque is a measurement of the rotational power created)... so how could you determine how much it can or can't handle- keep adding crap, dynoing it and keep recording just before and just after it blows up? That's absolutely STUPID, but it'd be the way to measure how much HP your engine can actually handle, not by just estimating. PSI in the chamber matters- once your PSI is too high, you start throwing rods/pistions... blowing your head, etc.

The fact of the matter is this:

 

Stock D16 = 6-8 PSI (without a tune or mods) generally stated (that's a general rule of thumb for most stock cars now).

The concerns:

-Price (size of your wallet) versus efficiency

-The target HP you want to reach (realistically with the funding you have- not the "I wanna make 800WHP... that's not a problem" 17 yr. old mentality (no offense to any 17 yr. olds- not everyone is like that).

-Size of the turbo for the application... for the HP you want to gain (higher HP application = bigger turbo = longer spool and more lag)

 

For your application... what you have done to your engine, for price and efficiency, get a T3/4 turbo- it will spool quick and it will hold boost and power all the way through your curve for 250-300 whp (which is what you said you want) - Remember- it's a friggin 1.6L, it doesn't take much to push air in there. I will say this: you WILL NOT make 250-300 WHP with your current setup- you WILL have to spend money to get to that... things like Fuel Management, a clutch/flywheel (your stock one will slip ALL day with that much HP). It just won't happen, realistically, you can get to about 200whp before you starting hitting problems (and I'm not just limiting problems to the engine itself). Good luck.

[Pballer2005]

MP-03RSXR what are you trying to prove with this argument? a motor can only handle a certain amount of hp and torque. after that point it breaks. the main point of getting more power is to increase the combustion pressure... the only way to do that is by adding more air/fuel. you can do this with forced induction or by making intake and exhaust modifications. porting, boring, all of that stuff is to make it so that more air can get into the chamber faster. its the same concept of a turbo, just not quite as extreme.

 

"so how could you determine how much it can or can't handle- keep adding crap, dynoing it and keep recording just before and just after it blows up? That's absolutely STUPID, but it'd be the way to measure how much HP your engine can actually handle, not by just estimating. PSI in the chamber matters- once your PSI is too high, you start throwing rods/pistions... blowing your head, etc."

 

how do you think people know a motor can't handle beyond a certain limit? from trial and error. someone put a car on a dyno with too much power and somethign broke. this has happened to enough people over time that we can get a good ballpark figure of what our limits are. you can alos mimic these scenerios in a lab. you can use mathamatics to determine a certain amount of pressure on a rod is equivilant to a certain amount of power.

[lceah]

you guys please use the "quote" button to get the quote from the post that you are replying to so your replies are more clear...tnx

 

MP-03RSXR, you are focusing on definitions like horsepower is power output and all...but no one is saying something like a stock car's horsepower number is what it can handle...some mods add more and the car can "handle"...

 

but if you turbo some car to over 10 psi, for example, and it blows then it can't "handle"...or if one uses too many shots of nitrous oxide...or if you try to haul a ton...or....basically, referring to the stress put on the engine cuz of different things is what makes the car "handle" or not...

 

I know you understand this...I'm saying this to tell you what is being referred to, at least in my posts...

[CleanGSR]

"How much boost you can run is not determined by the psi, it's determined by the amount of hp the motor can handle.

 

If person A runs 14psi and 200whp on one turbo

and person B runs 10psi and 200whp on a different turbo

the stress on the motor will be the same."

 

If you're going to reply, don't be a dumbass about it. 10 PSI = 10 PSI period. You're getting into efficiency and air flow... that has nothing to do with PSI... PSI= Pounds Per Square Inch of pressure (how much air is being compressed in a limited area of space)... more PSI = more density which is more compression (why do you think you need lower compression ratio for turbo setups! DUH!) or in Lehman's term = BIGGER BOOM/MORE POWER- the explosion of gas/compressed air is more violent when the air is more dense (that's why you want COLD air because it's more DENSE= more HP). Running 1 car at 14 PSI to MAKE 200WHP is A LOT MORE STRESS ON YOUR ENGINE than a car running at 10 PSI with a different turbo. The fact that you have to push 14PSI into the engine to make it reach 200WHP means you're smashing more air into less space just to make the same power that 10 PSI can (that's called EFFICIENCY). So yea... tell me how PSI doesn't matter? Because according to your logic I can: get a EFFICIENT turbo and run it at 5 PSI and then get a average/decently EFFICIENT turbo and run it at 35 PSI to make the same HP. Notice: there are different size turbo kits- like stage 1/2/3 because you CANNOT put something like 14 PSI into a stock engine- it's TOO MUCH PRESSURE- you'll end up throwing your rod right through your block because of all the pressure- it creates a more violent explosion (or combustion) and throws the rotating parts of the engine at higher velocities. As someone mentioned- yes- a Greddy stage 1 kit doesn't make near as much power as other kits- and that's due to efficiency (air flow speeds)... not due to a different PSI in the chamber. More PSI means more stress on the engine components regardless of what HP you measure.

 

My original post is in strict reference to PSI... of course different turbos are more/less efficient than others, but if you measure 10 PSI going into the chamber, it's the SAME amount of air (or PSI) whether it's a T3/4 or a GT35. If some people want to be douches about it, I can argue that it also depends on your climate (high atlitude vs. low altitude, ambient air temp, intercooler efficiency... other things like spark plug efficiency, your car's grounding system, etc.) and so on... I can make your head spin with crap you probably couldn't even think of. I would argue (from my knowledge) that PSI is a decent measurement of what your engine can and can't handle- why do you think it's generally stated that most stock engines can handle 6-8PSI? It's not about how much HP your engine can handle... how could it be? Horsepower is a MEASUREMENT of the power CREATED by the ENGINE (just like torque is a measurement of the rotational power created)... so how could you determine how much it can or can't handle- keep adding crap, dynoing it and keep recording just before and just after it blows up? That's absolutely STUPID, but it'd be the way to measure how much HP your engine can actually handle, not by just estimating. PSI in the chamber matters- once your PSI is too high, you start throwing rods/pistions... blowing your head, etc.

The fact of the matter is this:

 

Stock D16 = 6-8 PSI (without a tune or mods) generally stated (that's a general rule of thumb for most stock cars now).

The concerns:

-Price (size of your wallet) versus efficiency

-The target HP you want to reach (realistically with the funding you have- not the "I wanna make 800WHP... that's not a problem" 17 yr. old mentality (no offense to any 17 yr. olds- not everyone is like that).

-Size of the turbo for the application... for the HP you want to gain (higher HP application = bigger turbo = longer spool and more lag)

 

For your application... what you have done to your engine, for price and efficiency, get a T3/4 turbo- it will spool quick and it will hold boost and power all the way through your curve for 250-300 whp (which is what you said you want) - Remember- it's a friggin 1.6L, it doesn't take much to push air in there. I will say this: you WILL NOT make 250-300 WHP with your current setup- you WILL have to spend money to get to that... things like Fuel Management, a clutch/flywheel (your stock one will slip ALL day with that much HP). It just won't happen, realistically, you can get to about 200whp before you starting hitting problems (and I'm not just limiting problems to the engine itself). Good luck.

 

Okay dumbass. Do you have any idea how much pressure is genereated inside an engine under normal circumstances? Ever do a comopression test. On a GSR it's should be around 170psi ....so you think that a 4psi difference (10 vs 14) is that much more harmful to the motor? Give me a break. Again.....it's not that PSI doesn't matter (nobody said that), it's the fact that how much psi is not as big of a factor as how much power you are making. Hate to break your giner, but the amount of hp being made is much more stress than the amount of psi being introduced.

 

You seriously think that if one car is making 300whp on 8psi and another car is making 200whp on 12psi, that the car with 300whp is being easier on the engine. You bring a new level of dumbass to the forum.

[lceah]

I agree with Hung...

[MP-03RSXR]

Again, you're comparing 2 different things Hung- now you're saying that an engine making 300 whp with 8 psi handles more stress than an engine running 200whp at 12 psi. Of course that's true. Before you were talking about the same engine, with different turbos and from what I understood, you were saying PSI doesn't matter. 4PSI of pressure does make a difference- it changes quite a bit. Why do you think you can't slap a turbo on an engine and just push 13 PSI with stock internals (for the most part- very few cars CAN do it)... there's a noticable jump from 6-10, or 10-14 in power output.

 

Anyway, what I'm trying to say, or argue, is that saying 6-8 PSI of boost (measured as entering the chamber) is a solid, and generally accepted value for boosting a stock engine setup. I think most, if not all will agree on that.

 

As far as the comment made about using mathematics to figure out what your engine can handle... yea, you can do it... but it's an estimate. I know that thousands of people have done trial/error, but not every car is the same. If you called up Honda and asked "how much horsepower can my 98 Civic D16Y8 engine handle?" They won't know what to tell you... because horsepower is the measurement of your power output. Granted, like I said, you can mathematically figure out an estimate, and then do trial/error. But, for the most part- most of us don't want to keep slapping parts on and pushing the engine harder until it finally blows up, just to figure out how much HP your setup can handle. I'd like to have you figure out what horsepower my engine can handle considering these variables/constants:

 

-The current temperature outside- which here goes from -10F to 115F though the course of a year.

-My spark plugs, their gap, their temp, ground and spark output.

-My T3/4 Turbo pushing 7PSI of boost, using either a cast iron manifold or stainless steel manifold.

-Straight downpipe/testpipe/Tanabe catback exhaust

 

Do you see where I'm going with this? Mathematically figuring out how much HP your car can handle is extremely difficult and tedious- you have to take into account EVERY single factor of that car. That brings me back to saying that PSI is PSI. Yes, there are different levels of efficiency, but PSI itself has nothing to do with efficiency- the whole point of posting was to say: GENERALLY STATED: 6-8 PSI on any stock engine is a safe and healthy bet. That was mainly directed towards those people saying that PSI does not matter... it does matter, just as efficiency matters and so on and so forth. There are many factors to consider when boosting an engine, we all know that, but to disregard PSI is foolish. 10 psi is not 14psi, they create different stress levels as well as different HP and Torque gains.

 

It's all good though, and I didn't mean to actually call you a dumbass, my bad there. We all have our different opinions/views- what I know is what I know. I have a 98 Civic D16Y8 sitting in my garage that I've done ALL the work on, and I know that I can't push much past 7 or 8 PSI without a proper tune. I have installed a full turbo kit/intercooler myself. I have done many mods to my car and I know a bit about physics (due to school and my job)... but I sure as hell don't know everything. Some things I'll disagree with (like a lot said in this post) and some things- if explained thoroughly and they make sense, I'll come to understand and agree with.

[CleanGSR]

I get what you are saying, but again.....what I'm saying is that he needs to pick a turbo before doing anything else. Sure, 8psi is 8psi (though the effeciency can change the power gotten from 8psi). So if he just says yeah, I'll run 8psi and then chooses a GT35 and ends up making more hp than his motor can handle at 8psi.

 

For example, If I boosted with a small T3, I would have no fears at all for running 10psi on a decent tune...stock motor.

 

A peakboost kit though? I'd never go over 6psi with since their kits hit 270-280whp on 6psi and 330whp on 8psi.

 

So, yes, psi is psi, but what psi he should run shouldn't necessarily be a given until he chooses what setup he's gonna run. Imagine if he got the peakboost kit and ran 10psi on a stock motor......boom?? Shoot, I'd even be scared at 8 psi with their kit on stock motor.

[MP-03RSXR]

I get what you are saying, but again.....what I'm saying is that he needs to pick a turbo before doing anything else. Sure, 8psi is 8psi (though the effeciency can change the power gotten from 8psi). So if he just says yeah, I'll run 8psi and then chooses a GT35 and ends up making more hp than his motor can handle at 8psi.

 

For example, If I boosted with a small T3, I would have no fears at all for running 10psi on a decent tune...stock motor.

 

A peakboost kit though? I'd never go over 6psi with since their kits hit 270-280whp on 6psi and 330whp on 8psi.

 

So, yes, psi is psi, but what psi he should run shouldn't necessarily be a given until he chooses what setup he's gonna run. Imagine if he got the peakboost kit and ran 10psi on a stock motor......boom?? Shoot, I'd even be scared at 8 psi with their kit on stock motor.

 

Thread is probably dead at this point, but yea, I do agree... I didn't understand before. Honestly, I'm not familiar with higher end kits, because I've pieced my turbo kit together and done all the work myself- I'm used to seeing/reading/living the by "6-8PSI" rule for T3/4 turbos. If I do spend the money on a nice full name brand kit, I'll probably have someone else install it, so if something happens it's on them.