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99 Accord F23... NA or Turbo?


misterd0505

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i've got a 99 Accord LX F23 5 spd... it's got about 115,000 on it and it's having some problems burning oil... i have a lot into this car, so i figured it'd be worth it to fix the problem... but rather than just replace rings/seals/gaskets, i figured while i have the engine out it'd be a good time to build it up like i've always wanted to... my question; which is better - NA or Turbo? I know i'm going to get a lot of mixed answers here, but i'm basically looking at trying to not build something too complicated that's gonna take too much time or too much $$, but will also be able to crap on that stock 150hp... i have very basic mods - MSD 6AL with external blaster 2 coil, CAI, and a yellow top battery... basically i wanna know if i should go low comp. with turbo or high comp. and run NA... any ideas?

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i've got a 99 Accord LX F23 5 spd... it's got about 115,000 on it and it's having some problems burning oil... i have a lot into this car, so i figured it'd be worth it to fix the problem... but rather than just replace rings/seals/gaskets, i figured while i have the engine out it'd be a good time to build it up like i've always wanted to... my question; which is better - NA or Turbo? I know i'm going to get a lot of mixed answers here, but i'm basically looking at trying to not build something too complicated that's gonna take too much time or too much $$, but will also be able to crap on that stock 150hp... i have very basic mods - MSD 6AL with external blaster 2 coil, CAI, and a yellow top battery... basically i wanna know if i should go low comp. with turbo or high comp. and run NA... any ideas?
with your motor, id go turbo since you already have cast iron sleeves and your compression isnt that high.
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depends on if your going to put it on the track(or street) or not. the turbo will get you a serious boost in power and speed but you have to keep your foot on the gas. if you take you foot off the gas and step on it again you'll get a lag from the turbo. some people like it some don't. The NA is a consitent source of power (if done right mind you) and it works better than a turbo on uneven surfaces. and when you put you foot on the gas you instantly feel all of your horses pull. So, me i would choose a NA.

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i've got a motor shop that's gonna bore the cylinders .20 over and put in some dome top pistons, but other than that and shaving the head how else can i increase compression ratio? and also my friend has a spare engine that i'm gonna get off of him so i can build up that engine while i'm still able to drive my car. it's the same year, same exact engine, except his car is a jap and mine's an american, and his engine is ULEV... can i put the ULEV engine in my accord without having any problems?

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in that N/A build it says to use K20 pistons... is the bore on the K20 block and the F23 block the same size?... i was lookin to bore my block .20 over anyway, but if it's the same stock bore as the K20 it'd require a lot less math...

how is that possible if yours is 2.3L?

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dude i'm not the one that came up with the F23 NA build using K20 pistons... i'm just askin questions so i can get this done right...

 

K20 pistons will work with a little bit of adjustment. I've read a write up on it, let me see if I can find it...

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Here's what I found for a cheap NA build using K20 pistons:

 

I just rounded up on the prices.

 

F23 Rods ~$150

ARP F23 Rod Bolts ~$120

ACL F23 Rod Bearings ~$45

K20A3 Pistons ~$120

K20A3 Piston Rings ~$70

H23 Head Studs ~$150

 

Then add in a headgasket, new timing belt, etc. Should give you around 11.1 or higher compression with all OEM parts.

 

FYI - you dont need to bore the block. The F23 and K20 have the same bore (86mm) all it'd need is a good cleaning hone job.

 

Also:

 

This setup is gonna raise your compression a good bit, I'd say minimal VAFC or SAFC just so you can adjust the fuel accordingly. The better choice would probably a stand alone or maybe a piggy back with better options like E-manage.

 

BTW I got this information on 6thgenaccord.com. Feel free to check it out yourself if you're interested. Ultimately, what all this boils down to is its possible, the k20 pistons have the same bore, they're just shorter than the stock f23, and it HAS been done before.

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okay, i found a website to order all my parts from, but i have another question for you guys... I'm looking to order a set of 11.2:1 9.0 dome top pistons for a K20... the bore is 86mm which is the same as the F23, but the stroke on the K20 is 3.386" and the stroke on the F23 is 3.82", and the rod length on the K20 is 5.472" and 5.551" on the F23... am i gonna be creating too much compression if i go with this setup?... should i get pistons w/ less dome?

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K20a3 - dome = 2.5cc - should give around 11:1 compression

K20a2 - dome = 4.25cc - mid 12's to 13:1 compression

K20a - dome = 6.6cc - highest compression 13-14:1

 

With the proper work-up 11:1 should be fine. I'm no expert since I haven't attempted anything like this, but I know it has been done by someone on hondatech and there has been lengthy discussion on 6thgenaccord.com, so I'd recommend you to those two places because they have a lot of experience with the f23 block.

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okay, after doing a lot of thinking and research, i've decided to scratch the NA build and go turbo... i came across a website www.turbo-kits.com and they have a TSI turbo kit for $2899... the kit includes:

- Garret T25 Turbo w/ wastegate

- Exhaust manifold

- Downpipe w/ gasket

- MAP unit (black box)

- TSI BOV

- TSI intercooler

- Polished Alum. intercooler piping

- 2 Injectors and interference block

- TSI Injection coltrol unit w/ turbo timer

- Injector control system settings

- SS braided water cooling and oil lines

- All clamps, hardware, fittings and hoses

the kit is said to give 6PSI... i've got a stock F23 with an MSD ignition... could i safely run this kit on my stock engine? thanks for the input guys...

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