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Ok...... once again I have a 93 del sol with a b18b1 non-vtec engine..... I relized that the faster I drive the warmer it runs... It doesnt overheat, it runs above average.... Is there something wrong or just an easy fix? I dont have a thermostat... could that be the problem? Where would i find the thermo any ways? I know on the engine...... but the top hose or the bottom? The housing on the top hose is in like a rectangle shape and not a circle like the thermostat..... I just had the head reshaped because it was warped, so that has all been fixed..... Any Ideas that I could do? Thanks for your time... Victor

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It is possible to not have a thermostat, but it is unlikely if you just had a professional do headwork that they wouldn't have replaced/reinstalled the thermostat when they did the work though.

 

I had/have a similar issue with my own car in in my case it was tied to the fact that my fan was not turning on. Start with that, make sure the fan is running. Then make sure all your wiring to the thermostat connections are attached. Also check your fuses. I think there are two or three that are tied to your fans running correctly. Check these things before you go to the trouble of buying and installing a new thermostat though.

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No i know I dont have a thermostat..... The shop that did it was a real close friend.... I dont know why he didnt replace it... My fan does work, Maybe not all the time(when its suppose to) but i do hear it kick in. Where the thermostat is suppose to go is in like a rectangular shape and not a circle like the thermostat..... What am i missing? It is suppose to go in the housing that the hose hooks up to, right? On my engine it is rectangular. Victor

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off the top of my head I think the assembly is a triangular shape at the base with a half dome sticking out of it and, of course, the hose fitting. The dome area is what houses the thermo.

 

It not unheard of to run without a thermo on a car in warmer climates and/or a setup that has overheating issues anyway. It should be set up so that your fan runs constantly in that case. If your fan isn't running all the time then you guy set up some other thermal sensor somehow or the fan has a short in it and its only kicking on intermittently.

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Ill take a look..... Correct me if im wrong, but, I thought the fan only kicks on when it reaches (*guess) 185 degrees..... If it is not that hot then it doesnt run..... So youre saying it sits in that housing... do i just place it in there or what... thermos that i have replaced sit on top of the engine and it just sits there as you put the housing over it.. Im new to imports if you couldnt tell! Another question... What is a good price to have my car painted the same color it is with minor body work? I had an price quote of three thou. I thought that was expensive for as small the del sol is and my hood being carbon fiber. Once again thanks for your time.

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There are two large hoses. The top hose has a bleed bolt at its base and the thermostat should be behind it. In the picture below, the person had a question about the hose they circled in red. Your thermostate is next to this hose and can be seen with a 12mm bolt next to it.

 

redfh6.jpg

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The fan is supposed to kick on when it hits a certain temp, but your car also doesn't have a thermostat like it should either. So who knows what might be happening? The thermal sensor for the coolant attaches to the thermostat housing on the d15's and on the d16y8 (although mine do not look like th epicture posted above), i assume it is the same for the d16z6 that you have.. If the housing or thermo is different/messed up the sensor to trigger your fans may be as well.

 

The stat installs on the same premise, except it goes into the head sideways. It just sits in-line inside that housing. When you bolt the housing to the head that is all that holds it in place.

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Ya I do have a b18b1....... I will look at it today after class..... hopefully it will stop raining :thumbsup: The picture really helps... I just undo the two or three bolts that are on the housing and place the thermostat in the housing. Does anything hold it or what? And since I dont know what year car my engine is out of..... what year would I ask for B18b1? 94?

 

I just thought of something..... I dont have that bleeder screw....

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I am concerned.

 

First, make sure you get the air hole at the top. You will be able to recongnize it on the thermostat since will have a little ball bearing in the middle of the hole.

 

Second, you need to find your bleed screw before you do anything to the cooling system. Changing the thermostat will put air in the system, which needs to be bled back out or you will cause more problems.

 

Like in the picture, the bleed screw is a 10mm nut with a medium threaded post extending from the middle where the post has a hole in the middle.

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Ok..... Im gonna check on that tomorrow cuz its been raining all day... Here is another question, except now on brakes... Sometimes my brake pedal will go to the floor untill I pump it a couple times. It mostly happens when I go to turn around. Its fine when I come to the primary stop but when i back up thats when it goes to the floor. But normally it is real good... So this was confusing me and now hopefully everyone can help me like you all have been... Thanks again for ALL of your time. VIctor

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From your description, I believe your braking system is not able to reach its maximum internal pressure; the pressure found, in the line, within the system.

 

Here are two possibilities:

 

 

1. Something with an isothermic compressibility factor higher than the isothermic compressibility factor of brake fluid has either contaminated your brake fluid or infiltrated your braking system.

 

Water:

Since brake fluid is an alcohol based organic solution, water and aqueous solutions are partially soluble in it. Since your braking system is open to the surrounding atmosphere via the reservoir, it is also exposed to moisture and atmospheric gases. As time passes, water slowly dissolves into the brake fluid and reacts with indicators in the fluid, changing the fluid's color from a golden honey color to dark brown. Water changes the fluid's compressibility too, as the color changes to darker shades of brown, the fluid's compressibility increases.

 

Air:

The compressibility of atmospheric air is far greater than that of the brake fluid and the pressure exerted by the master cylinder is of an insufficient amount to transfer enough energy to the brake pads in order to stop the vehicle.

 

 

2. Your master cylinder is unable to maintain a proper seal while working against the brake fluid's ability to resist compression, c.f. third law of motion.

 

Damaged or old seals will allow fluid to bypass the primary system, allowing an unexpected loss in braking and increased pedal travel. You can still stop by pumping the brakes since your secondary system has not failed. When your secondary system fails, no amount of pumping will save you.

 

 

Suggested Plan of Attack:

 

Bleed your brakes; you should encounter enough resistance to stop the pedal after about 1-2 inches of travel (pedal travel).

 

If this does not work, and your pads are good (thicker than 1.5 millimeters), and your fluid is new (golden honey in color); you may need a new master cylinder.

 

Before you go changing anything, look for any other factors that you may have missed in diagnosing this problem.

 

This is a good opportunity to learn about your braking system and how to diagnos it. You should try to make the repairs yourself, it is fairly simple and if you break something, don't worry, from what you have described your brakes already do not work. Have fun with it.

 

132

Edited by James Matteu
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Ok..... Im gonna check on that tomorrow cuz its been raining all day... Here is another question, except now on brakes... Sometimes my brake pedal will go to the floor untill I pump it a couple times. It mostly happens when I go to turn around. Its fine when I come to the primary stop but when i back up thats when it goes to the floor. But normally it is real good... So this was confusing me and now hopefully everyone can help me like you all have been... Thanks again for ALL of your time. VIctor

 

Realy you don't NEED a Thermo. If you don't have one water will flow non stop through the motor wich inturn the water has no time to cool befor passing the sencor. It will run a little hot but should not over heat.

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Well seems to me like you know brakes... Thank- you for making a reply. I have checked almost every hour and a half to see if someone said something. Sometimes when I pump the brakes it will slow me down and pull to one side, normally to the right.... So far I have changed the master cylinder and a caliper due to the connection to the emergency brake. But other times I pump the pedal it will do nothing. Normally my pedal may travel an inch to an inch in a half. And thats what I like LOL. I do travel from Illinois to Michigan a bit... so this is something I want to fix.... In a little bit I will go check the fluid.... It still should be good since I just changed the master cylinder bout four or five months ago.. I always used the "Best" fluid that was out there... It was suggested by the guy that worked at the part store... DOT 4 Synthetic... Could the fluid be my problem?

 

 

 

As far as to Batman's reply..... I think thats what it is doing.... I need to go home to install stuff, thats where all my tools are, since i'm at school. Ill inform all of you what happens.... Thanks for everything! Anybody have more on brakes? Even tho Mr. James Matteu seems like he has it! Thank-you, Victor

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DOT 4 is sufficient for non-racing applications. DOT 5 is best and DOT 5.1 is for race-only applications, but I would consider both to be overkill unless you are working with a non-stock braking system. DOT 3 and DOT 3/4 are obsolete.

 

I damaged a brand new master cylinder by forgetting to bench bleed the master cylinder before installation. The guy at the parts store was cool about it and just swapped it out, free of charge.

 

Nobody told me that if you put the master cylinder in dry, you will damage it. Possibly not to failure, but damaged to some extent for sure.

 

This begs the question; did you fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and then pump the master cylinder by hand for about 20 times before installing it?

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Yeah. I did know to do that. My brake fluid is still like a honey brown. So I dont know what the problem is. Now back to the coolant issue. I looked at the thermostat housing and I do NOT have a bleeder screw. If you are standing next to the passenger side tire looking at the engine..... I have a hose that comes out of the bottom-left of the housing and runs to my throttle body...... Is that even suppose to be there?

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I just re-examined the picture from above... The hose that is outlined.. I think that goes to my throttlebody.. I have the raised part where the bleeder screw is... but no screw.... There is no whole or nothing and it don't leak... Now what do I do?

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Interesting, your cooling system is exactly like that on the Saturn twin cam setups.

 

Run the engine with radiator cap off and heat in wide-open position. Do this while adding coolant to the radiator as needed for about 5 minutes. Then cap it up and your done.

 

You will get plent of bubbles from the neck of the radiator, so rinse everything off when your finished.

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Ok... Changed the thermo..... That was a joke! Ill post pics of the one that was in there... And Yeah there was one (well....what was left of it) in there! Any ways replaced it and still does the same thing... My fan works good... I dunno... I was determining to put a h22a4 in this winter any ways.... So of course I have questions on that but I will post a new topic for that.... replaced the back pads and rotors.... The passenger side was pretty well gone, the drivers side still had life left so I was wondering if that could help determine what is going on with my brakes... Victor

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