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'01 Accord Audio Setup


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Thought I'd share my system with all of you. I have a 2001 Accord sedan which iscurrently the vehicle is in the body shop getting repaired and I dont know when it will be back in my hands since I've been told it will be ready the next day, each day for the past 4 days. Below are pics of what I had before and half of it will remain.

 

I will be running:

Head unit: Eclipse AVN7000 Navigation (uses HDD for navi)

Sub: 1 DD 9515

Sub Amp: Kicker ZX 2500.1

Mids & Tweeters: Boston Z6

Frontstage Amp: Kicker ZX 850.4

Battery under hood: Kinetik HC 1400

Battery in trunk: Kinetik HC 1800

Enclosure (Daily): 5 cubic feet (after port and sub displacement) tuned to ~38 Hz

Enclosure (SPL): Undecided, will be testing out port lengths and enclosure size. The first build is located at the very end of this post. The next build will be a little over half the size. The first SPL enclosure is 4.5 cubic feet before port and sub displacement. The second will be 2.5 cubic feet before port and subdisplacement. I plan on getting as close to 150 dB as possible according to Street B rules in dB Drag, which means using only one battery, one amp per sub, windows up, doors closed, and car off.

 

The Ride:

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The Trunk:

 

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The daily enclosure (I bought the wrong type of carpet which didnt stretch at all and the enclosure was fiberglassed with so many curves so it made it tougher and it looks like crap because I rushed my friend because I wanted to just get some bass back in the ride):

 

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Under the hood (Does not include the big 3 wiring I have done, but has the HC 1400 battery):

 

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Vids of previous setup (on 500w, not 125 as stated in the video. I actually had it hooked up to 1 ohm (its only 2 ohms stable so the amp took the beating quite well for quite some time, and never got hot, just warm.):

 

 

 

 

Video of my first comp. The other vehicle was a Scion xB with 2 12" JL W6's on 1000w (JL 1000/1). I was using a Treo SSX 1500.1 wired at 4 ohms and gains turned down so I was receivingi about 700w. Sorry to disappoint all the JL Fan Boys ;)

 

 

 

SPL Build (Last post on last page is what it will look like):

 

http://www.caraudiojunkyard.com/forum/encl...-dd-9515-a.html

 

 

Here is a collection of some of my subs, I have 2 12's (not the same) not pictured:

 

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Edited by Don Pisto
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So all that doesn't cause light flickering at nighttime when the bass hits?

 

I've never understood how that works.

Edited by busted ls1
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The Kenitiks take care of that problem.

 

Correct, as does the big 3. I do get dimming, but I'm more concerned about voltage. The last amp i had was a soundstream xxx 6500 which drew a ton of current and on a stock alt it wasnt wise. Before that I had a Treo SSX 1500.1 and with the vehicle off and one HC 1400, I never dropped below 12V. The Treo got the sub loud, I had some dimming, the speedometer gauge was jumping up and down, but the soundstream just overdid it. The speedometer gauge jumped more, and the RPM gauge was jumping as well, whether I was driving or stopped.

 

I got the car back and now have the kicker zx 2500.1 on it and I gotta set the gains properly and re-do my big 3 since some of the wires came loose. I had the gains halfway and it wasn't doing what I wanted it to do so I have to set them properly. And no cap for me because its useless, especially when I'll be having an HC 1800 in the trunk.

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nice subwoofer. I have the same one :dribble: but it looks like your enclosure carpet was put together by kindergarden'ers lol I hope your enclosure was built to spec and tuned right b/c id hate to see the dd not hit to its potential.

 

Here is a picture of mine that i took awhile back. I don't have the carbon fiber dustcap

 

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**EDIT: I like your kinetik battery. im using a yellow top optima right now but my next one will be a kinetik. how do you like it?**

Edited by TLontheDL
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I'd like to learn about audio but daaaaaaamn.

 

Seems like there is far more to it than just hooking up a big ass amp to a bigass woofer in a bigass box.

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nice subwoofer. I have the same one :dribble: but it looks like your enclosure carpet was put together by kindergarden'ers lol I hope your enclosure was built to spec and tuned right b/c id hate to see the dd not hit to its potential.

 

Here is a picture of mine that i took awhile back. I don't have the carbon fiber dustcap

 

dd3512.jpg

dd_magnet.jpg

 

**EDIT: I like your kinetik battery. im using a yellow top optima right now but my next one will be a kinetik. how do you like it?**

 

Mmm, triple stacked mags. Enclosure is probably not built fully to spec, but I can say I'm pretty satisfied with it. I'm doing a constant 135 dB on music and 139 on test tones. After the recone I've been able to do 140.7, still .5 dB short of what I did before the recone and on a different amp.

 

The carpetting was done by a friend of mine who is actually great at that sorta stuff, however I fudged up and got carpet that doesnt stretch at all and there were so many curves on the enclosure and with me telling him to just hurry up made it that much worse. I should have just gotten it painted but at the time I thought it was gonna cost quite a bit and I didnt have much money.

 

I believe the enclosure is tuned to about 38 Hz, I should have done to 40. I do have two SPL enclosures I'm working on and those will be tuned much higher.

 

As for the Kinetik, I like 'em, sits at 12.9V with the battery cooled off.

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I'd like to learn about audio but daaaaaaamn.

 

Seems like there is far more to it than just hooking up a big ass amp to a bigass woofer in a bigass box.

 

Definitely...also if you dont have the electrical to keep up, you'll end up doing what I did to the sub before I got it repaired, which is severely clip it and blow the voice coils. Its actually more in the design and vehicle than the setup. I know a guy with a CRX and 2 10's that is MUCH louder than I am, about 15 dB more...That difference is pretty much like listening to a system inside the car and comparing it to putting your ear next to the port and listening to it. It's actually a lil bit less.

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yeah, the car and its shape plays a factor too. I have a 4 door car and the back seats don't fold down. If i was to get a car for an audio project, id go with a minivan, extended cab truck or any hatchback car.:thumbsup:

 

 

just port the sub up through the rear deck. problem solved.

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  • 9 months later...
ok so u point that crap right up at ur trunk lid....its gonna rattle like a bitch!

 

That's where you're wrong. I upgraded to an 18 quite some time ago and pushes more air than the 15 that is in this thread. With all the deadener I've laid out and covering crucial areas, I don't deal with rattles.

 

My memory is running thin with the amount of deadener I've put in the car since I do one area then the next and come back, so on and so forth. I used all Second Skin products and put a layer of Damplifier on the trunk lid, 4 or 5 layers of Spectrum and 1 or 2 layers of Spectrum sludge. The entire trunk has 3 layers of Spectrum. The upper rear deck has 3 layers of Spectrum and 1 layer of sludge, bottom of the rear deck has 3 layers of spectrum and 2 layers of Sludge. My old tail lights had two layers of Spectrum but I'm getting new lights so those will see a layer Sludge. I haver also filled the rear quarter panels and the rear deck with expanding foam. I won't be using the 3rd brake light either since it hits the glass and destroys the sound quality of my setup.

 

I have even more done to the rest of the car. The hood has a layer of Damplifier and 2 or 3 layers of Spectrum. The rear doors, the interior of the door has 2 layers of Spectrum and the exterior of the door (where the door panel goes on) has 1 layer of Spectrum. The front doors have a layer of Damplifier and a layer of Overkill with a Speaker Tweaker pad on the interior of the door and a layer of Damplifier, 2 layers of Spectrum, and a layer of Rattle Pad on the exterior of the door. I have also done the wheel wells which made a significant difference in reducing road noise, feels like I upgraded to a BMW, especially with the new suspension I bought. Anyhow, the rear wheel wells have 2 or 3 layers of Spectrum and the front wheel wells and front quarter panels have 3 layers of Spectruum and 1 layer of Sludge.

 

I would really like to do the entire floor but it is too costly and I've spent enough on deadening my car, about $600 worth. If I end up doing the floor in the future, road noise would diminish by a very good amount and I probably won't hear much of it, except from the windows. I'd also like to do the firewall in the engine bay, but I'd have to take the engine out and also from the cabin, but there's too much to take out. If I did the roof of the vehicle, it would make a huge difference with rain. You can barely hear a full blast hose on the hood with all the deadening I've done to it. I might end up doing some deadener near the wheel wells on the interior of the car. My next car will be fully gutted and I'll have even more deadener. I'll probably spend about $3,000 on deadening it. If turning something like a Tercel to sound as quiet as quiet and feel like driving a BMW, I wonder what it would when applying it to a BMW. Time will tell :)

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Holy hgsdfhgguhhgjhsaiuterlghshnv man. That's a sheetload of work/money.

 

How big is the HDD in your HU, and how much $$$ and where did you buy?

I've been looking at Pioneer AVIC-Z series. I'd like to find one under a grand though.

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Holy hgsdfhgguhhgjhsaiuterlghshnv man. That's a sheetload of work/money.

 

How big is the HDD in your HU, and how much $$$ and where did you buy?

I've been looking at Pioneer AVIC-Z series. I'd like to find one under a grand though.

 

dont count on that . . unless a crackhead on the street has one laying around

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Holy hgsdfhgguhhgjhsaiuterlghshnv man. That's a sheetload of work/money.

 

How big is the HDD in your HU, and how much $$$ and where did you buy?

I've been looking at Pioneer AVIC-Z series. I'd like to find one under a grand though.

 

I don't have the AVN7000, and never got it. Got scammed sad to say :(

 

That setup has ENTIRELY changed and it changed several times. Here's what my new setup entails:

 

Headunit: Alpine W200

Mids & Tweeters: Zapco Competition (6.5")

Subwoofer: 18" TC Sounds TC-5200 (Quad Voice Coil)

Fronts Amp: Alpine PDX 4.150

Sub Amps: 4 Alpine PDX 1.1000 (1 per coil)

Processor: Alpine H701

Navigation: Alpine Blackbird B100 via dock connected to the W200

Enclosure: Wedge style, approximately 2.5 - 3.5 cu. ft. sealed

Power and ground wire: Kicker Hyperflex

RCA's: Custom (Canare cable and Tara Labs RCA)

Optical Cable: Tara Labs

Batteries: Odyssey PC 1200 under hood, 2 Odyssey PC 2150's in trunk

 

I am considering doing an IB (infinite baffle) setup if I'm able to since the wedge style enclosure may not work because of the large speaker size and depth, plus the Accord has a seat belt thing that hangs from the rear deck and causes me to loose some space. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I'll be doing. Plus I need to get my sub reconed and it will be a custom sub. Just having a tough time finding a 4" quad 1.4 ohm or higher coil.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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